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Anyone go from 6 speed Manual to DSG

RGGTI41510

Ready to race!
went from a MKV 6sp to a MKVI DSG due to back issues.
I miss the hell out of rowing gears, but my back thanks me for the change. For a daily, DSG is the best compromise. If I ever get a project car, it will definitely be manual.
I will say my car is stage 1 GIAC and though the DSG is supposedly more fuel efficient, I was getting better mileage out of my stage 1 APR 6sp MKV. I find it rather strange.

I get way better gas mileage when I up shift myself, but it's so annoying to do that. I know I'm sounding like a hypocrite saying I miss shifting a MT but shifting the DSG is annoying. I'm probably gonna piss a couple people off by saying this but I feel like the DSG could really benefit from an optional Eco mode

**ducks**
 

iag48st

Ready to race!
Bought a Civic Si in April and traded it in for a DSG MK6 end of June. NYC traffic was becoming very annoying with the manual so I decided to go with my first choice DSG GTI. I absolutely love it! Nothing like relaxing in bumper to bumper traffic and nothing like WOT upshifts/Paddle shifting in the open. Not to mention, my 2010 MK6 only had 11,800 miles!!

BTW to whoever mention 20mpg in city driving, I'm getting the same. Took her in for consumption tests and everything came out fine. My first half of the gas tank depletes much slower than my second half, I'm trying to drive conservatively and see how my mpgs turnout.
 
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sethdude

Pobody's Nerfect.
All of you guys who are calling the MkVI shifter "vague" have clearly never driven a MkI or MkII GTI. I've owned RWD manuals with direct shifters that were less precise.

If your knee hurts with the clutch, by all means, DSG is great. My MkV had it, and it was a fun transmission option. Launch control and "DSG farts" are a hoot. But I got 6MT on my MkVI for a reason, and that is as good as DSG is, it's not as engaging as a real manual. It is a great compromise, though.
 

mattdibart

Go Kart Champion
BTW to whoever mention 20mpg in city driving, I'm getting the same. Took her in for consumption tests and everything came out fine. My first half of the gas tank depletes much slower than my second half, I'm trying to drive conservatively and see how my mpgs turnout.

if you really want to watch your mpg and get the most out of your gas get a boost gauge. My technique is to obviously be in the highest gear without chugging the engine and then trying to get my boost gauge reading below -10 psi. You would be surprised at how little it takes to get the boost gauge to read above -10psi. If you are able to keep it below that for the most part of your trip (going to be hard in stop and go) you will see your mpgs rise. This does mean that you will have to accelerate a low slower then you are used to btw.

I was typically getting around 28-32 mpgs going to work and since installing my boost gauge and watching the readings I have increased my average consumption to 37 mpgs with my best one way trip average of 40.5 mpgs (my commute is 31 miles each way). Obviously you don't NEED a boost gauge to do this but i find it does help as you can physically see a gauge and monitor your boost levels. when accelerating I try and never go into the positive psi range.
 
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zogger

Ready to race!
DSG trannied cars are sprung 24mm taller than a manual-equipped car (this is true btw): manuals have a better stock stance.

Not the case in Australia and Uk, having owned both a manual and dsg mk6 gti there is no height difference so might be a US thing. Currently in the states on holiday and have to say your GTI's are high on the arches.

Anyway having been a manual purist, the DSG isn't that bad, can still skip gears but its a double / triple tap on the paddle.
 

Baldeagle

Ready to race!
if you really want to watch your mpg and get the most out of your gas get a boost gauge. My technique is to obviously be in the highest gear without chugging the engine and then trying to get my boost gauge reading below -10 psi. You would be surprised at how little it takes to get the boost gauge to read above -10psi. If you are able to keep it below that for the most part of your trip (going to be hard in stop and go) you will see your mpgs rise. This does mean that you will have to accelerate a low slower then you are used to btw.

I was typically getting around 28-32 mpgs going to work and since installing my boost gauge and watching the readings I have increased my average consumption to 37 mpgs with my best one way trip average of 40.5 mpgs (my commute is 31 miles each way). Obviously you don't NEED a boost gauge to do this but i find it does help as you can physically see a gauge and monitor your boost levels. when accelerating I try and never go into the positive psi range.

Sorry if I continue off the subject, but I have question about your post. First, I agree that driving a GTI off boost will definitely reward the driver with surprisingly high mpg. But I’m not sure I understand your statement that keeping the boost reading below -10 psi is a good thing.

Doesn’t that imply a moderately, strong vacuum inside the intake manifold? If yes, doesn’t that immediately create pumping losses which are well understood to hurt mpg? (My understanding is the greater the vacuum in the system, the more it resists the pistons’ downward motion during their intake strokes. The vacuum in the system keeps trying to suck the pistons backup which hurts efficiency and ultimately decreases mpg.) I would have thought a reading of 0 psi (meaning no boost and no vacuum, just background atmospheric pressure) would have maximized fuel mileage. In fact, that is why I thought turbos were good on the highway. With just a tiny bit of boost, it keeps the pressure in the manifold near atmospheric, which minimizes pumping losses and maximizes fuel mileage.

I’d appreciate any explanation (from you or anyone). Thanks
 

mattdibart

Go Kart Champion
Sorry if I continue off the subject, but I have question about your post. First, I agree that driving a GTI off boost will definitely reward the driver with surprisingly high mpg. But I’m not sure I understand your statement that keeping the boost reading below -10 psi is a good thing.

Doesn’t that imply a moderately, strong vacuum inside the intake manifold? If yes, doesn’t that immediately create pumping losses which are well understood to hurt mpg? (My understanding is the greater the vacuum in the system, the more it resists the pistons’ downward motion during their intake strokes. The vacuum in the system keeps trying to suck the pistons backup which hurts efficiency and ultimately decreases mpg.) I would have thought a reading of 0 psi (meaning no boost and no vacuum, just background atmospheric pressure) would have maximized fuel mileage. In fact, that is why I thought turbos were good on the highway. With just a tiny bit of boost, it keeps the pressure in the manifold near atmospheric, which minimizes pumping losses and maximizes fuel mileage.

I’d appreciate any explanation (from you or anyone). Thanks

I'll be honest, I cannot explain the science behind but what I can tell you is that if I drive with my gauge reading 0 or just above 0 (podi boost gauges are supposed to really accurate as well) then my MPGs begin to drop. I'm not sure where they will stop my guess is around the 28-30 mpg mark which is what I was getting before.

Ever since I began trying to get my MPGs below -10 psi I have been getting amazing MPG numbers getting as high as 40.5. Also I am getting up to speed and then just basically tapping the throttle to keep my at a relatively constant speed. If I'm not on a hill my gauge will bounce around between -20 psi (0 throttle) to about -10psi just to keep my speed up. This trick may seem like a well known trick however I bet 95% of people on here who do this will get your boost gauge to read about 0 psi when tapping the throttle because you barley have to press it in to get the reading that high. I know for myself I was definitely getting to around 0 psi before I bought the gauge which is why I was only getting about 30 MPGs prior to getting the boost gauge.
 

Gunkata

Drag Race Newbie
it's already shifting anywhere from 1500-2k rpms.. how much lower you wanna go??
 

RGGTI41510

Ready to race!
it's already shifting anywhere from 1500-2k rpms.. how much lower you wanna go??

WHAT?! *spits out coffee*

My car is in the shop so I can't check right now, but I'm pretty sure it shifts much higher than that. Maybe it has an issue and I should take it to the dealer?

I guess I'll find out in a couple weeks
 

Gunkata

Drag Race Newbie
in normal driving, under regular load (aka not flooring it), you should see shifting around 2k most of the time.
 

SixSpeeder

Go Kart Champion
I get way better gas mileage when I up shift myself, but it's so annoying to do that. I know I'm sounding like a hypocrite saying I miss shifting a MT but shifting the DSG is annoying. I'm probably gonna piss a couple people off by saying this but I feel like the DSG could really benefit from an optional Eco mode

**ducks**

I remember times when my MKV with DSG would be climbing up a hill in 4th gear at 1300 rpm lugging and straining, until I'd bitch slap it with the paddle shifter into a proper gear. I don't know exactly what you're looking for man... :iono:
 
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