GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

New used Golf R

Bryan259

Ready to race!
There's something to be said for a car that

you get 28mpgs
Take to the snow
Every day driving comfort
room to put a bike in the back
Can beat any Na-mustang out there ect...
 

iGTI1

Go Kart Champion
My R FSI doesn’t need any oil added between oil changes. But I did a careful break in and a first oil change a 1,000 mi.

And the cam follower issue is only an issue for the over pressure modified fuel pumps like APR’s

My Golf R FSI consumes less oil than my TSI did, I most admit I am shocked I was expecting the FSI to consume more.


The HPFP is totally worth the maintenance and upkeep! I change mine every 20k, Ive already done it 2x as preventive maintenance. Sitting here at 53k and completely rosy.:thumbsup:
 

BoostedVW11

Drag Racing Champion
I felt the same about my R.

I tried an intake and it made a lot more noise but no power.

I dropped in a downpipe with a 200 cell cat and resonator and it's night and day.

I now have great mid and high range pull.

My mpg jumped from around 23 to close to 27-28

The OEM dp has 2 600 cell ceramic cats, thats a lot of resistance not letting the turbo do it's job.

FWIW I would do a DP before any tune, you may want to run stock after a DP swap.

Pretty funny that most vw owners dont know about 1800 cell cat essentially...i noticed gain right away even with stage 1 gti tune.
 

TSI_Guy

Go Kart Champion
What's all this worry over the apr hpfp?
Not worried about the pump, its the cam follower, just got to swap it out every 20k miles or so.
 

swisscheese

Passed Driver's Ed
I'm getting a lot of good feedback from you friendly peeps. I appreciate the camaraderie. I too was worried about the cam follower. I may get them inspected during the 40k service, or do you guys think I shouldn't worry about it?

I just got back from driving PCH and then Mulholland Hwy. It wasn't too bad actually. My wife actually said the Golf R felt more stable than the GTI. She was afraid in the GTI for some reason (tire squeel at almost every turn lol). I could feel the front not losing traction like the GTI. The balance was there.

I'm really debating whether or not to do APR stage 1 as stock isn't cutting it for me. I'll be doing an autocross in October, so I will see what kind of times i will get compared to when I took the GTI.
 

UGTSI

New member
APR stage 1 is night and day just like with the GTI. I made the move from a 10 GTI to a 13 R simply because I was about to drop a bunch of cash on a k04 kit. I started thinking about it and well AWD>FWD. I recently did 2+ on the R and to be honest its plenty of power, a heat soaked 90* ambient dyno put down 311awhp/333awtq (all wheel not fronts) and I'm on stock catback. The APR pump is nice and changing the cam follower takes maybe 15mins max. I'm still on the stock clutch at 12k miles was 1 and 1+ till around 10k. I saw someone say they did an intake and werent impressed with the power increase, the car and almost all cars will adapt to an intake untuned so you can expect much. If you are going to bolt parts on just tune the car accordingly and get the most out of the parts you bolted on otherwise it seems pretty pointless. From my experience I did stage 1 then added a HPFP and went 1+ didnt have anything else done to the car and the gains from 1 to 1+ HPFP weren't noticeable. Week or two later added the intake and downpipe and again it was night and day. I would check out moddedeuros for a downpipe as they give a discount to forum members and have some of the best priced downpipes around. I went SPM street think I paid 512 shipped build quality was great and fitment was perfect. Intake I went with a neuspeed p flo, probably the cheapest option but the trims are perfect and the fitment is great. A buddy in town has a VWR intake newest revision cant comment on his trims but he was upset at how much it rubbed on other stuff around the filter housing. Hope this helps a little.
 

bebersol

Ready to race!
My Golf R FSI consumes less oil than my TSI did, I most admit I am shocked I was expecting the FSI to consume more.


The HPFP is totally worth the maintenance and upkeep! I change mine every 20k, Ive already done it 2x as preventive maintenance. Sitting here at 53k and completely rosy.:thumbsup:

agree,
its easy to do maintenance too.
 

bebersol

Ready to race!
APR stage 1 is night and day just like with the GTI. I made the move from a 10 GTI to a 13 R simply because I was about to drop a bunch of cash on a k04 kit. I started thinking about it and well AWD>FWD. I recently did 2+ on the R and to be honest its plenty of power, a heat soaked 90* ambient dyno put down 311awhp/333awtq (all wheel not fronts) and I'm on stock catback. The APR pump is nice and changing the cam follower takes maybe 15mins max. I'm still on the stock clutch at 12k miles was 1 and 1+ till around 10k. I saw someone say they did an intake and werent impressed with the power increase, the car and almost all cars will adapt to an intake untuned so you can expect much. If you are going to bolt parts on just tune the car accordingly and get the most out of the parts you bolted on otherwise it seems pretty pointless. From my experience I did stage 1 then added a HPFP and went 1+ didnt have anything else done to the car and the gains from 1 to 1+ HPFP weren't noticeable. Week or two later added the intake and downpipe and again it was night and day. I would check out moddedeuros for a downpipe as they give a discount to forum members and have some of the best priced downpipes around. I went SPM street think I paid 512 shipped build quality was great and fitment was perfect. Intake I went with a neuspeed p flo, probably the cheapest option but the trims are perfect and the fitment is great. A buddy in town has a VWR intake newest revision cant comment on his trims but he was upset at how much it rubbed on other stuff around the filter housing. Hope this helps a little.

The ECM's in the R are pretty amazing, they use AI learning algorithms. When you do a mod like a DP or intake, you need to drive the car normally for a week or two (no wot). The ECM will modify the trims and fuel ratios on it's own, and you won't throw a CEL. After a couple weeks you can let it rip. I only have empirical data but replacing the restrictive ceramic cats has a profound impact on the engines performance.
 

UGTSI

New member
The ECM's in the R are pretty amazing, they use AI learning algorithms. When you do a mod like a DP or intake, you need to drive the car normally for a week or two (no wot). The ECM will modify the trims and fuel ratios on it's own, and you won't throw a CEL. After a couple weeks you can let it rip. I only have empirical data but replacing the restrictive ceramic cats has a profound impact on the engines performance.

Pretty sure its called adaption. Regardless tune the car properly to see the most bang from the bolt ons.
 

bebersol

Ready to race!
Pretty sure its called adaption. Regardless tune the car properly to see the most bang from the bolt ons.

True, “Adaption” as you call it, doesn’t change the boost and fuel ratios.
A tune will increase [turbo] boost, fuel and dwell to achieve higher HP and torque. How much HP becomes a balancing act of how much you want to trade off performance for durability.
A manufacturer like VAG will keep their tune safe (conservative) for reliability purposes. Given that the Audi TT has the same engine as the R tuned to 300 HP it’s safe to believe that the APR stage 1 tune is safe too. After all VAG has a financial incentive not give the VW customer the same amount of performance as the Audi customer.
 

swisscheese

Passed Driver's Ed
I'm at an apr dealer, I'm getting stage 1 even though i told myself i wouldn't lol. I need more power. 30 day money back guarantee. ?
 
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