Brake Pad/Rotor Replacement/Upgrade

[#madrussian]

Hey all,

I was recently told by a marginally reliable source that if i want to replace my stock brake pads i should also be replacing my rotors.

I have a few questions in regards to this:
1. Do i really need to replace the rotors if I'm replacing pads, as I'm replacing pads for brake dust reasons not for wear.
2. If i do need to replace them any suggestions on upgrading rotors, drilled/dimpled/slotted?

Side note* i bought red-stuff pads for both front and rear.

Any information would be great.

Thanks,

#madrussian

 

[corrado917]

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43244

 

[reedsposer22]

Hey all,

I was recently told by a marginally reliable source that if i want to replace my stock brake pads i should also be replacing my rotors.

I have a few questions in regards to this:
1. Do i really need to replace the rotors if I'm replacing pads, as I'm replacing pads for brake dust reasons not for wear.
2. If i do need to replace them any suggestions on upgrading rotors, drilled/dimpled/slotted,

#madrussian

Thx for post, i had exact same qs

 

[Gunkata]

Mileage is a key factor, otherwise, no, you don't need to unless they need to be replaced.

rotors, go blanks or slotted. dimpled / cross drilled is usually not recommended, but more if you are going to track.

 

[dopoz]

Mileage is a key factor, otherwise, no, you don't need to unless they need to be replaced.

rotors, go blanks or slotted. dimpled / cross drilled is usually not recommended, but more if you are going to track.

The advice to use fresh rotors when changing pads is centered around incompatible pad materials between manufacturers, and the potential for squealing. One could usually get the rotors turned to get a fresh surface, but our rotors have very little width to give up before they're out of spec (3mm front, 2mm rear).

The EBC Redstuff that OP bought have a break-in coating on them which eats off a thin layer of rotor surface, and I have successfully switched from OE pads to EBC Yellowstuffs without doing a thing to my rotors, and never had any squeal.

You have your rotor advice backwards -- drilled/dimpled are a bad idea for track, but fine for street. Slotted are best for track use. But honestly, our stock blanks hold up well on the track anyway.

 

[bfreiman92]

I've got the red stuff pads on my R. Had them on there since about 17k miles. Im at 22k miles now. They haven't been a problem with the stock rotors. Switched my brake lines to stainless steel lines at the same time and have been very happy with the stopping power -- plenty for the street.

 

[#madrussian]

Thanks everyone i appreciate the feedback.

I've just rolled over 30k on the car, i think I'll do the swap to redstuff this weekend and keep the same rotors, my biggest issue with the brakes is the dust anyway.

What real advantage is there with stainless lines? I had them done on a few motorcycles and i didn't really notice any difference. Is it just for the safety aspect of the harder material or do they really hold and transfer pressure better?

Thanks again,

#madRussian

 

[jimadriver]

Thanks everyone i appreciate the feedback.

I've just rolled over 30k on the car, i think I'll do the swap to redstuff this weekend and keep the same rotors, my biggest issue with the brakes is the dust anyway.

What real advantage is there with stainless lines? I had them done on a few motorcycles and i didn't really notice any difference. Is it just for the safety aspect of the harder material or do they really hold and transfer pressure better?

Thanks again,

#madRussian

I'm anxious to hear about this! I'm wanting new brakes but can't justify the money to do it prior to needing them. My plan is some blanks with Carbotech 1521.

I had EBC Redstuff on a 3 series and a c class and both did well with them but the Carbotech's have been so well spoken of here I'm planning on that route.

I've read and heard from several sources that short of track driving/hard stuff the difference isn't a big deal. That said, if you're doing a flush it's easy enough to do.

I've got the red stuff pads on my R. Had them on there since about 17k miles. Im at 22k miles now. They haven't been a problem with the stock rotors. Switched my brake lines to stainless steel lines at the same time and have been very happy with the stopping power -- plenty for the street.

How much better are the EBC Red's? What's your review on them? Better feel? Notable better stopping? Elaborate?

 

[#madrussian]

How much are the Carbotech 1521, I got both front and rears for ~$200 so the cost wasn't significant. I'm a neat freak so the issues with brake dust is a serious one for me.

@jimadriver - how do you like the Revo-1? I've been toying with the idea of a tune but have been on the fence about things like reliability and overall engine longevity.

Has anyone had issues with pads causing a warping of the rotors or something negative to swapping one component but not the other.

Thanks,

#madRussian

 

[jimadriver]

How much are the Carbotech 1521, I got both front and rears for ~$200 so the cost wasn't significant. I'm a neat freak so the issues with brake dust is a serious one for me.

@jimadriver - how do you like the Revo-1? I've been toying with the idea of a tune but have been on the fence about things like reliability and overall engine longevity.

Where did you order the 1521's? Are they noticeable better than stock? I know low dust but I want bite more than I want clean rims (Both IS ideal)

The Revo tune is good. I honestly don't remember pre Revo as it was my father in law's at that point. About 3k rpm the car really takes off. No issues at all. Best hour & $400 dollar you can spend on the car. Cheap, easy power. If I wind up in the mk7 down the road I'll be doing stage 1 again. I think Revo and APR about the same.

 

[#madrussian]

Maybe my phrasing was confusing, i bought the EBC Redstuff for both front and rear. I was asking you about the Carbotech 1521's. And I was just price shopping online for a few days once i got the part number. I think the fronts i ended up getting from Amazon. they were like 108 and the rears like 80 from another online auto store.

Depending on who I'm talking to, they say do APR, REVO, etc. thats been my biggest hold up to actually getting any tune done.

 

[jimadriver]

Yea just got do it. Easy cheap power. No down side. (*if your engine blows up don't come calling. Haha)

You've got the red stuff on now though?

 

[#madrussian]

Swapping the pads thursday. I'll update the thread on how it goes.

 

[jimadriver]

Swapping the pads thursday. I'll update the thread on how it goes.

Well? How's the RedStuff?

 

[Deepflip]

@20k i replaced my stock rotors with new hawk hps ceramic pads + ecs tuning brake lines with motul 660 fluid. best setup for stock calipers. rly like the way it feels braking and u get zero brake dust and zero squeeling. i recommend this.