APR Presents the 2.0 TSI ECU Update (Version 2.0!)

[thatspsychotic]

**Need help urgently**

So I put my car in storage for a few weeks (non-heated covered storage unit). Before parking it I threw it back in stock mode. After switching maps I went to start the car, and it sputtered/ struggled between 400 and 600 RPM and coughed as it tried not to die. I shut it off and figured maybe I took my foot off the clutch before the starter motor stopped cranking (gear lever was in neutral). Starts up fine. As i'm backing it into the storage unit its popping a lot as I feather the gas (nothing new but the pops were loud). Park it.

Yesterday I went to pick it up. Car's been sitting in unheated storage for about 3 weeks. Start it up. Doesn't idle high like GTI's do usually when cold. It goes to like 1100 then slowly drops to idle. Car definitely felt a little rough but I figure its been sitting in the cold for almost a month. Throw the APR map on and go for a drive. Everything feels fine and strong.

Today, again, I cold start it and it doesn't idle high like usual. Just slowly drops to idle. Car still definitely feels a little rough probably since the cold start procedure was basically skipped.

Thoughts? Does this tune just not like the cold? It was fine last winter.

Or did my timing chain skip a tooth? If this is the case I have to figure out another way of getting around for the time being.

Thoughts?

EDIT: It did this in stock mode. Can't be the tune. Shit.


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If what you said in bold is true, there is almost certainly nothing wrong with the timing. If the engine is out of time it effectively never runs right and should throw CELs, even 1 tooth off.

Aside from the rough running stuff from sitting for a while, my car has also gone to normal idle speed shortly after starting now that it's cold out. Come to think of it, it hasn't really idled high in a little while... I don't really make a big deal out of it, usually I start driving gently about 5 seconds after starting the car anyways, so I never notice.

Warming your car up before driving is 100% unnecessary, as long as you're driving gently until the car is warm, not getting right on the highway, etc. The car warms up much faster while being driven anyhow.

 

[[Old User]]

Okay. I was just concerned about timing because of how it sputtered and coughed that first time i tried starting it after throwing stock mode on. It was really bad lol

Thank you guys!


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[richterat83]

Question for you guys. I just purchased an MK6 with an APR stage 2 93 octane tune on it. Is it possible to add additional tune files for 91 (93 is hard to find here, only 1 or 2 stations have it) and a valet mode?

 

[brobst]

You would have to transfer the tune to your name and then purchase the fully loaded if the car does not already have a fully loaded tune.

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[Andrew429]

If what you said in bold is true, there is almost certainly nothing wrong with the timing. If the engine is out of time it effectively never runs right and should throw CELs, even 1 tooth off.

Aside from the rough running stuff from sitting for a while, my car has also gone to normal idle speed shortly after starting now that it's cold out. Come to think of it, it hasn't really idled high in a little while... I don't really make a big deal out of it, usually I start driving gently about 5 seconds after starting the car anyways, so I never notice.

Warming your car up before driving is 100% unnecessary, as long as you're driving gently until the car is warm, not getting right on the highway, etc. The car warms up much faster while being driven anyhow.

Perfectly normal for the car to not do the high idle when its below 40 degrees, theres another thread somewhere, but the reason is that the computer doesn't run the secondary air pump

 

[richterat83]

You would have to transfer the tune to your name and then purchase the fully loaded if the car does not already have a fully loaded tune.

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Previous owner only told me about the 93 octane tune and switching back to stock, so i assume it's fully loaded (being able to switch between tunes)

edit-re-reading apr site, i don't believe i have the fully loaded option as he only mentioned the 1 tune and stock

2nd edit- He got back to me, i have the stock, 93oct, 100oc, and valet mode, so i am fully loaded. Guess i'll call to see about getting it transferred to my name though

 

[brobst]

Since you know the programs, you dont have to get it transferred unless you really want to lol.

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[richterat83]

I would rather swap the 100octane tune for a 91 since that's what most stations here have. But, for the $150, i'll just make sure i fill up at one of the two 93 octane stations

 

[richterat83]

One other question, is there a way to find out what tunes are on it? He is now not sure which order the tunes are in. Can i take it to a local APR dealer and have them read it?

 

[tofuD01]

One other question, is there a way to find out what tunes are on it? He is now not sure which order the tunes are in. Can i take it to a local APR dealer and have them read it?

From when i got mine done, APR had sent an email with a PDF listing which order the tunes are set in at the time of flashing.

 

[2012TP]

From when i got mine done, APR had sent an email with a PDF listing which order the tunes are set in at the time of flashing.

I asked APR for mine the other day via the website form. Got a response almost immediately with the ECMS owners manual/loaded maps.

May not be helpful in that person's case, as he's not the "owner" of the tune. Will probably need to go to a shop and pay the license transfer fee

 

[richterat83]

I gave apr a call and they were super helpful! Pulled up my VIN and told me what tune was in what slot. Easy-peasy. However, to change put any new ones on (ie replace the 100 octane tune with a 91 octane), it's $150 to transfer it to my name. Looks like I'll be doing that as that's the only way I can get the latest flash (was last flashed back in 2015)

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[damagi123]

Hi all, been running the Stage 2 file for over a year now, and have gotten the latest updates as they were released.

A few weeks ago I noticed a soft-code on my APR Mobile app. The code is a P2177 Too Lean Off Idle, Bank 1. This eventually threw a CEL and I had to dig deeper.

Reading the forums didn't help much for debugging this thing (most people get a P2177 as a symptom of another fault from what I've read), however the P2177 was my only fault, so I opened a ticket with APR. Justin at APR got back to me the same morning with some potential fixes, and I wanted to share that info for any similar use cases.

1.) Checked PCV for any oil leaks. Humble Mechanic has a video on this.
2.) Checked rear main seal for oil leak. Easy to get under the car and check where the trans meets the engine.
3.) My o2 spacers are 42dd and I was running two of them in total - one pre and one post catalytic converter. I removed these.

This has had the car running smoother, better throttle response, and still no returning P2177.

Definitely worth the time to send in a ticket. The issue wasn't even related to what I bought from them and they still gave support, so you guys should send in tickets as well. The end result would be a better tune for all of us if some of the problems do end up being software related.

i was having all kinds of problems with my CBFA when I was APR stg2 (both v2.1&v2.4) with spacers on and all was resolved when i pulled em off. Then id just throw them back on for inspection and right back off they came.

Ive seen several similar stories on CBFA. That tune must get confused by the O2 readings or something

Rofl, now the post is deleted. Go figure. Someone quoted his post in the thread though, so it's still there. It was basically the response we got, which was go back to v1.2 to fix your issues. I wonder if he saw my post. Makes me feel like APR has been watching this thread pretty well actually, and is actively choosing to ignore you all.

They claim they fixed the issue already. That'll legit be surprising if they did. The fact they fucked the tune up in the first place, was not a surprise.

to be fair v1.2 was a really great tune. sure it had less power but it was very smooth. I bet APR will do less revisions now on their tunes in the future, seeing that this was way more problems than reward for everyone involved

 

[[Old User]]

1.2 was excellent (at least the latest revision that I had).

They promised an update for like 2 years and kept pushing it back.

Update comes out and it fucking sucked.

Updated update comes out and it still sucks, but tries to be more lowkey about it sucking.

And here we are. For me it kind of just is what it is at this point. I just want some damn crackles lol


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[ahard48]

I gave apr a call and they were super helpful! Pulled up my VIN and told me what tune was in what slot. Easy-peasy. However, to change put any new ones on (ie replace the 100 octane tune with a 91 octane), it's $150 to transfer it to my name. Looks like I'll be doing that as that's the only way I can get the latest flash (was last flashed back in 2015)

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That's annoying cause I called a month or so ago and they said they couldn't tell me anything, only that the car was tuned (as I bought it that way)

Maybe I'll take a different approach and pretend the car is mine and that I lost my printout with the list of maps.