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PowerZone: Rear WaveTrac install into Differential *In Progress*

mmdb

Drag Racing Champion
Location
California
Did a couple off ramp excursions powering out of the turn. The car definitely wants the rear to rotate on power. A bit too much. I took off the rear sway bar (H&R... solid bar and pretty damn stiff) and the car transistioned back to under steer on power... (I’m using H&R in the front as well on the stiffest setting). I’ll either install the stock sway bar or pick up a super pro sway rear bar to load the rear a bit more to tighten the turning radius.
 

mmdb

Drag Racing Champion
Location
California
Update: pushed the car a bit in the rain. Just grips even in the wet. Rear traction is increased with the rear outer wheel pushing the car around the corner. I guess it didn’t help that I swapped my H&R sway bar back to stock to dial in a bit more under steer (awd cars prefer no swap bar or stock)... I don’t feel that I need a stiff sway bar in the rear to rotate the car. I’m pretty happy with the upgrade. The car feels more all wheel drive than a fwd if that makes any sense. In other words I feel the back end plays more of a role in accelerating the car rather than playing a sort of implicit role or a minor role.
 

mmdb

Drag Racing Champion
Location
California
Update: I was curious to know how folks over in Europe were setting up their R's so I reached out to PowerZone. Here's what they had to say:

We usually set them rather soft at the front and harder at the rear. This increases the effectiveness of the rear LSD and also helps these cars to balance the nose heavy weight distribution, but can also additionally promote the tendency to oversteer

I was doing the exact opposite by stiffening the front and softening the rear. My issue was that the rear give out a bit during corner exit. Though through corner entry and mid, the car felt a tad bit understeer if pushed at the limit. Ultimately, I wasn't taxing the rear end enough!... That's why I got the mod in the first place (duh)!!!

And being part dummy, I sold my H&R rear swaybar to revert back to using the stock swaybar. Needless to say, that thing (H&R rear swaybar) was damn stiff (I'd recommend it prior to having a rear LSD however). So rather than pout, I ordered up a SuperPro 24mm adjustable swaybar. I'll also set the front swaybar to the soft setting.

Anyone experience oversteer in their R? I'm guessing the pool there is a bit small... as you'd probably need a wavetrac and/or really stiff rear swaybar.
 
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mmdb

Drag Racing Champion
Location
California
Yeap the rear diff helps 100%. Zero issues with launch from what I can tell. I currently don't have a haldex controller, but will probably invest in one as I get familiar with the car all over again. Firstly, I'll modify the sway and see how that changes the dynamics.
 

Dog Dad Wagon

Autocross Champion
Location
Go Birds
Car(s)
16 Touareg TDI
Yeap the rear diff helps 100%. Zero issues with launch from what I can tell. I currently don't have a haldex controller, but will probably invest in one as I get familiar with the car all over again. Firstly, I'll modify the sway and see how that changes the dynamics.

Does the rear diff help with rear rotation even off-throttle when the haldex is disengaged?
 

mmdb

Drag Racing Champion
Location
California
About 5 months using this unit and feeling grateful. It really transforms the car into what was predominitely a FWD with rear assist, into a 4wd. It's not to say I can do 4 wheel drifts with it, and I've really been trying to break the rear end loose, but no matter how much I try and power out of tight turns I just get a bit of oversteer. It might be an exaggeration to say oversteer, but rotation is more like it (good).

Powerzone recommends using the stiffest rear sway bar I can get my hands on, and I'd have to agree. As the weight transfers to the outer rear wheels, you'd really want to tax that wheel to really push out of the turn. This is where the biggest difference between an R with only a front diff, or not at all, the car's front wheels pulls the car out of turns. Whereas, having a rear wavetrac the car is not only pulled but is also pushed out of the corner. Some might say this mod is too much, and I would almost agree. Though, as a track enthusiast or someone who enjoys canyons I think this mod is up there on the wish list.
 

RudyH

Go Kart Champion
Location
Kitchener, ON
I have a GSW4Mo. I'm running 8k front springs and 10k rears along with a 25mm Neuspeed RSB. No FSB at the moment. This setup puts the car into a much more neutral state even giving some slight oversteer. However this "neutrality" relies on me staying in the throttle. When I start to back off the throttle classic FWD understeer rears its ugly head. This is manageable on a track, but a major buzzkill on a windy back road.

Does the rear diff help with this disconnect? Any issue with launch control? Are you running this alongside UM's Haldex tune?

Not really, Haldex isn't on 100% of the time, nor is it giving 100% when it does. It is reactive vs proactive. The UM Haldex tune just makes it 'come alive' earlier.
If you don't have it already, grab a front Wavetrac and start there. The UM Haldex tune is the next step, and if you are still not happy see what you can do with the rear diff.

Right now with a stiffer rear sway bar, and front Wavetrac I get insane traction up front and oversteer. The single UM dealer near me is an hour away and literally I am lazy to go get it done lol
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Not really, Haldex isn't on 100% of the time, nor is it giving 100% when it does. It is reactive vs proactive. The UM Haldex tune just makes it 'come alive' earlier.
If you don't have it already, grab a front Wavetrac and start there. The UM Haldex tune is the next step, and if you are still not happy see what you can do with the rear diff.

Right now with a stiffer rear sway bar, and front Wavetrac I get insane traction up front and oversteer. The single UM dealer near me is an hour away and literally I am lazy to go get it done lol
Did you DIY the wavetrac or do you mind sharing how many shop hours that took?
 

RudyH

Go Kart Champion
Location
Kitchener, ON
Did you DIY the wavetrac or do you mind sharing how many shop hours that took?
It was $605, but I was doing clutch and thrust bearing at the same time. Not sure what the shop rate is, can't even find it on their website. Figure 4-5 hrs? I know they charge over $100/hr anyway. They charged me time while they were in there so you might want to add transmission replacement time
 

Raguvian

Autocross Champion
Location
Bay Area, CA
Car(s)
2019 GSW 4MO 6MT
It was $605, but I was doing clutch and thrust bearing at the same time. Not sure what the shop rate is, can't even find it on their website. Figure 4-5 hrs? I know they charge over $100/hr anyway. They charged me time while they were in there so you might want to add transmission replacement time

You had your thrust bearing replaced? How did the shop do that? I would figure the crank shaft would have to come out for that.
 
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