0-60Motorsports
Since 1998
Thats Awesome! I have a 2011 GOLF R and was wondering IF i ever needed to rebuild my turbo, where can i get a complete rebuild kit from?
6
Rebuilding a blown k04
- Thread starter XGC75
- Start date
Thats Awesome! I have a 2011 GOLF R and was wondering IF i ever needed to rebuild my turbo, where can i get a complete rebuild kit from?
lilonespaz
Drag Race Newbie
was a interesting read. Glad you had fun while building it back up.
ncsugray90
Ready to race!
Thread revival!
Hey guys! I recently received a K04 needing a rebuild! If anyone has any questions or needs any pictures not already covered in this thread (however unlikely that may be) just let me know! The turbo is sitting disassembled in my kitchen right now as I wait for funds for rebuilding it. It will not be a quick process getting it into the car, so just let me know what you need and I'll do my best to help!
Also, huge thanks to XGC75 for answering all my PM's about the process before I bought the turbo. looking forward to the rebuild and some K04 powah!
Hey guys! I recently received a K04 needing a rebuild! If anyone has any questions or needs any pictures not already covered in this thread (however unlikely that may be) just let me know! The turbo is sitting disassembled in my kitchen right now as I wait for funds for rebuilding it. It will not be a quick process getting it into the car, so just let me know what you need and I'll do my best to help!
Also, huge thanks to XGC75 for answering all my PM's about the process before I bought the turbo. looking forward to the rebuild and some K04 powah!
Are you planning on rebuilding the CHRA or just straight swap?
MeanGreenGTI
Ready to race!
Wow. Huge points here for a turbo rebuild. Great read and great all around information. This might be something I would be interested in doing. Thanks for all the great information, pictures and video review.
ncsugray90
Ready to race!
I'm going to swap the CHRA for a new one from Borg Warner. It has 70k miles on it, one of the oil feed bolts busted through the side, and the backing plate on the compressor side got chipped during disassembly (it was surprisingly brittle, but its cast, so that makes sense). I'll probably use the old CHRA as a cool paperweight at work, haha
Cadubya
Autocross Newbie
Make sure you get the BW CHRA from post 46. There's a lot of Chinese knock offs out there.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/BorgWarner-K0...45-702C-NEW-/371112972034?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
ncsugray90
Ready to race!
Thats the plan, I have the listing bookmarked. Looks like the dollar is stronger than ever, rebuilt CHRA for $380! Woot!
Cadubya
Autocross Newbie
XGC75
Go Kart Champion
Yeah that's what I paid for mine after shipping from Germany.
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ncsugray90
Ready to race!
Nice! Still waiting on funds to move forward with mine [emoji53]
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keggo
Passed Driver's Ed
Hate to resurrect this thread, but great info in here about rebuild. I’m looking at options to build my own frankenturbo. Also, thought it’s hilarious the gasket maker says “650°F (343°F)”BACK.
Big update: The k04 is in the car and all works fantastic. From this point backwards, there were a bunch of considerations and contingencies for me to deal with in the installation. I won't go into those details here because they're a system problem and don't necessarily concern the rebuild process itself. I would definitely recommend giving the install threads a good going-over before trying to tackle any used k04 buy and/or install.
Next are my notes about the rebuild process.
Getting the CHRA onto the compressor housing is just like taking it off. Fitment is tight, so a rubber or plastic mallet and some thorough light tapping is required to get it back on. The v-band does most of the work getting the CHRA into place. There is a strict orientation, but the parts are keyed so you can't get this wrong. There are no gaskets or o-rings to consider here.
Next is getting the compressor housing onto the CHRA. The parts are joined by a number of small 10mm bolts and washers. There are 4 bolts on the k04 housing and 5 on the k03, though they're different bolts so they don't carry over from one to another. Take care getting these parts together - the compressor wheel sits VERY VERY close to the compressor housing and you really don't want to scratch the two together for risk of making a barb or fissure that causes compressor wheel to compressor housing contact. Two things here: 1) tighten the bolts gradually and evenly to pull the compressor housing to the CHRA, and 2) make sure throughout the process that the turbine wheel can spin freely, ensuring that nothing is coming in contact with either wheel.
This is the best picture I have to demonstrate how the compressor housing mates to the CHRA. Look at the k03 on the right. Note the aluminum plate is a part of the CHRA assembly, while the bolts mount to the compressor housing.
There is a gasket needed here keeping the compressor housing and CHRA connection air-tight. I got an o-ring with my blown k04 purchase (CTS probably shipped it to my seller along with the bolts needed to mate the compressor housing to the CHRA), but I noted that the stock k03 used a liquid sealant from the factory. I gather that a good liquid gasket would probably do the trick great, if not over-applied. First picture is the remains of the gasket on the k03. Second is the o-ring I received with the CTS pseudo-kit.
Lastly, the "OEM" liquid gasket:
Orientation of the compressor housing to the CHRA matters. The first thing you'll find on the bench is the wastegate mounting bracket must line up. That's fairly self-evident. Otherwise, if the compressor inlet pipe is too forward (towards the manifold) then it will come in contact with the coolant return hard-piping as the whole assembly is mated to the block. If it's too far back, you'll have intake fitment issues and, at worst, you'll be hitting some other equipment bolted to the firewall. My recommendation here is to mount the compressor housing to the CHRA and then test-fit the whole assembly with those lines attached to the block (they're moved out of the way during turbo removal). Don't worry about the heat shield, it's not going to interfere with the compressor housing. Re-clock if necessary.
I didn't do this. I lucked out, although just barely. If my intake (a VF Engineering unit) wasn't much smaller in diameter than the intake coupler of the DV relocate kit I bought, I would have had to remove the turbo and re-clock the compressor housing (good thing I used the o-ring, because if I had applied the liquid gasket I'd have to carefully scrape it off and re-apply). As it is, the intake coupler rubs lightly against the coolant return line and doesn't bother me too much. I may try to re-clock it some day, if it can be done while mounted to the car. I'm not too sure if it can.
All things considered, the hardware all works properly in application and the tune seems to run it great. Check out my build thread (starting page 20) for a log of my install shenanigans and, in the following 3 pages, my impressions of k04 in general.
Clearly a misprint, but funny.