GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

2013 VW GTI progress

bimmer635csi

Ready to race!
Well, my schedule has gone to pot.

I need 4 bolts that are not stocked within 200 miles of Detroit. So I have wait until tomorrow at least. But the computer said there were only 3 available by tomorrow, so I have to wait for one to be cross-shipped on Friday.

Moral of the story: If you are putting abnormal parts on a car, check everything before you start assembly.

This means the chance of making the autocross this weekend just went from possible to highly unlikely. Thank goodness there's another one the week after in Toledo.
 

BMWWW

Passed Driver's Ed
Gotta buy a case of beer, and hop on the phone to your buddies to get their behinds over and help you finish the job in record time.

I have 2.5 years with my previous front-heavy family sedan in the cones. Match your tire pressures to your driving style, and drive according the the friction circle--weight transfer + liftoff oversteer will get these porkers rotating nicely. My old car was probably close to 3700lbs, and didn't enjoy the Star Specs all that much. Switched to RA1's 3 events in with the starspecs, and haven't looked at another tire since. RA1's make the fwd almost telepathic.

Just got our 2.5, and I hear you on the triple-star-supreme-bolts that I keep reading about.
 

bimmer635csi

Ready to race!
How long did you buttons take to ship?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

I ordered it on Feb-16 and received them at the house on Mar-07, so about 3 weeks.

(Lucky for you, I am keeping track of all of my orders on a worksheet, otherwise I'd have no clue.)


Gotta buy a case of beer, and hop on the phone to your buddies to get their behinds over and help you finish the job in record time.

I keep trying, but not getting many takers. Everyone else is working on their own cars now. Plus, I still can't get the bolts I need, so getting buddies isn't the issue, it is my dumb-ass not ordering all the parts I needed in the first place.

I have 2.5 years with my previous front-heavy family sedan in the cones. Match your tire pressures to your driving style, and drive according the the friction circle--weight transfer + liftoff oversteer will get these porkers rotating nicely. My old car was probably close to 3700lbs, and didn't enjoy the Star Specs all that much. Switched to RA1's 3 events in with the starspecs, and haven't looked at another tire since. RA1's make the fwd almost telepathic.

I'm curious about the tire situation you mention. Mostly about the shape of the shoulders. Were the StarSpecs square shouldered and the RA1s round shoulder? (I've heard a round shoulder on these cars makes a huge difference is why I proposed that.)

Just got our 2.5, and I hear you on the triple-star-supreme-bolts that I keep reading about.

Congrats on the new ride, sorry about the bolts. Fortunately, it's not JUST you.

Cheers,
Chris
 

RacingManiac

Drag Race Newbie
Are you planning to run the street tire classes? There seem to be quite a few options in that UTQG 200 range now....Rival, RE-11A, ZII, RS-3, AD08R...etc
 

BMWWW

Passed Driver's Ed
I'm curious about the tire situation you mention. Mostly about the shape of the shoulders. Were the StarSpecs square shouldered and the RA1s round shoulder? (I've heard a round shoulder on these cars makes a huge difference is why I proposed that.)

Chris

Now that you ask, I'm not 100% sure because it was a while back--I've since sold the setup.
Both were ran on the same 17x8 rim. Both were also 235-wide--I THINK the aspect ratio were the same/similar. Assuming the AR was the same, I'd imagine the RA1's would be wider despite both running as a wide 235. I'll do some digging to see what the tread-depths were when I sold em, but I'd imagine 6-8/32 on the star specs, and the RA1's were down to 2-3-lines when i sold em.

Whether the shoulders are rounded or more square, I won't be able to remember that. They weren't 'stretched' by any means--but of course, the shaved RA1's would definitely have less tread-squirm than the 70% treaddepth starspecs.
 
Last edited:

bimmer635csi

Ready to race!
Plasti-Dip and Colorize the Rear Emblem

Based on my photoshop request, I have executed and present the end results.

This is maybe also a DIY with a few of the steps left out because I was freezing my schnards off today.

Anyway, here it goes, the "how to color behind your rear VW logo"

STEP 1: Find suitable pieces of vinyl for cheap.

I went on Amazon and did a search for "3M 1080 samples". A company out of San Antonio, TX popped up with many varieties of the 1080 film cut into 4"x6" samples for $1.99 each. So I got 4 samples as close as I could to the photoshop request colors from above.

To follow this method, you need to remove the rear emblem now also. There are many posts about how to do this. I found the razor blade method the best to get started.

STEP 2: Determine the grain of the vinyl.



Some of the vinyl I got were grained to look like brushed metals. I wanted the brush strokes to go horizontally on the car, so I aligned the grain in that direction.

STEP 3: Place the emblem.



I placed the emblem on the vinyl with 3 of the sides off the edge of the vinyl (because it was only 4" wide). This maximized the leftover piece size which may prove useful in the future.

STEP 4: Trace the emblem.



I used a ball point pen to trace the outside of the emblem on the vinyl. A felt tip may have been better. Some key points:

4.1) The vinyl is very soft, so don't push too hard or it will rip
4.2) Point the pen into the corner so that you do not get the width of the pen body included in the tracing
4.3) Don't trace onto the vinyl from off the vinyl. I'd suggest starting on the vinyl and tracing off. That way, the vinyl won't lift off as the pen drags onto the vinyl piece
4.4) Practice on your least favorite color first to get a feel for it

STEP 5: Cut the vinyl.





I just used really sharp scissors with good lighting to follow the line I made in Step 4. Precision isn't required, because the vinyl is too big right now anyway.





I really liked the brushed metal color 3rd from the left the most, but ended up having to use the one 2nd from the left because I messed up my favorite one first.

Now is a good time to start spraying Plasti-Dip the emblem so it is dry when you finish applying the vinyl.

STEP 6: Clean the rear hatch opener.

I just used a wet paper towel to wipe it off and then dried it with an old t-shirt rag. But my car only has 155 miles on the odo, so you may want to clean more for cars with more miles / kilometers. You can see how dirty it was in the picture above.

STEP 7: Peel the backer off the vinyl & place it on the hatch opener.

Pretty self explanatory. But use your least favorite color first to get a feel for the whole process from here. I found only sticking from the top of the circle to the center of the circle the first time to be a good starting place. If it is cold (like it was for me today), use a little heat from a hair dryer to warm the vinyl and hatch opener up.

STEP 8: Warm the vinyl and stretch.

Again, using a hair dryer, apply heat to the vinyl to keep it softish so it can conform to the dome shape of the hatch opener. Then lift-stretch-stick the vinyl down as smoothly as possible without creasing it. If a ridge of unstretched vinyl is created, stop and lift the piece and stretch it some more. It is pretty stretchy. If you try to "mush" the ridge down, it will just make a crease and you will see it forever (there's no fixing a crease). Also, on the textured vinyl like this "brushed metal" texture, if you push with anything firmer than your thumb, it has the tendency to deform the brush shapes and this turns the vinyl a different color. I found my thumb sufficiently stiff to push the soft vinyl around when it was warmed.

STEP 9: Cut out the openings for the emblem attachment.

I then took a razor knife and cut as closely to the emblem attachment holes and bumps as I could. At this point, I also cut around the hatch opener so that the edge of the vinyl would remain underneath the circle of the emblem.

Be extra cautious for the two outside legs of the W (See the red boxes in the picture above). These two bump-outs on the hatch opener are almost the same width as the W and I ended up having to fix it because I cut too much.


END: Check it out.









I like this vinyl with the brushed metal texture. My prefered color was the middle darkness metal, but I really hosed it up because I tried that one first. Big mistake to use your favorite first (as I've said many times here).

That's all there is to it. I wanted to Plasti-Dip my logos, since I am not a fan of shiny-bits (which is why the GTI rear emblem will be removed soon). So while I was at it, I experimented and got pretty good results I think.

If anything is unclear, let me know so I can remedy that.

Cheers,
Chris
 
Last edited:

bimmer635csi

Ready to race!
Spring Rates Reports

So based on this post from Apr-07 and my lack of ability to drive the car right now because I could not get an alignment done yesterday, here are the results from the shop that measured the springs.

Fronts:



I got Springs 3 and 4 from TewFoxy with a 2012 4-door in a very easy transaction.

As you can see, Springs 1 and 2 were noticeably less rate than Springs 3 and 4. I wonder if this is an improvement VW made in GTIs for 2013 or if it just that TewFoxy's car is that much different than mine with the fancy navigation and sunroof bits. They are both Carbon Steel Grey color and DSG gearboxes, so that's the only major differences I could find between the two.

Rears:



These are all basically the same. I think I took the 2 stiffest and put them on, but to be honest, they are all so close, I don't think it was worth the effort to put the "two stiffest" on the car.

This was a fun little project to add to the list of things that were done.

For all the charts, I approximated ride height with a tape measure with the car on the ground. It was 8" in front and 9" in back. This is the center of the x-axis on the charts. I then asked for 2" jounce & 2" rebound measurement from there, which are the x-axis min and max points. All of the line in between are not actual data, just interpolated.

Cheers,
Chris
 
Last edited:

bimmer635csi

Ready to race!
Are you planning to run the street tire classes? There seem to be quite a few options in that UTQG 200 range now....Rival, RE-11A, ZII, RS-3, AD08R...etc

Here is an interesting read about how Hankook made the RS3's a 200 treadwear tire without changing anything from the previous 140 treadwear.

All I can say is "damn tire companies"
 

RacingManiac

Drag Race Newbie
lol...

BTW, it was wet and slippery today....I am getting the video up but its going to be a write off since probably <10 cars ran in the dry...
 
Top