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XGC75 - One for the Road

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
Installed the TyrolSport shift link bracket bushings yesterday. Easy install - just took out the intake and could reach everything down there. Didn't even take out the battery, though, the cuts on your hands and arms are inversely proportional to the number of things in your way you remove :rolleyes:



So my impressions overall are very positive. This doesn't drastically change the feel or mechanics of the shifter, but makes the action of pushing and pulling through the gates much more positive. There isn't hardly any change when you're in gear. You can't feel the engine vibes any better than before. Where this works is the feel of rowing through the gate and when you're out of gear. Basically, any time there is resistance on the lever, you'll have a more positive feedback.

Pushing up against a gate feels more metallic. It's certainly easier to get through the gate, especially when shifting quickly. In fact, the faster you push through the gate the better shifting feels. It's a bit more like rowing the bolt of a rifle, but not all the way there. In neutral, there's less slop. I know it seems like it wouldn't matter in neutral since the shifter moves around freely, but it's tighter and less bouncy and therefore feels better.

Finally, one last note is that this doesn't feel out-of-place if you're not familiar with the feel of the mk6 shifter. You wouldn't comment on it on a test drive other than to note that the shifter feels smooth. On that note, it feels a bit like an older Mazda's shifter but without the engine feel. Based on my experience driving mid 90's to early 00's models.





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Tk_mkv1

Go Kart Champion
I'm actually considering that shift bracket bushings to tighten up a bit, since my dog bone mount insert made my shifter feel soft and mushy that i needed to tighten it. i believe you test drove a manual bmw at an event that you posted here about half a year ago iirc, how would you compare to bmw's shifter vs this shifter bushings? its basically what I'm looking for it
 

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
I'm actually considering that shift bracket bushings to tighten up a bit, since my dog bone mount insert made my shifter feel soft and mushy that i needed to tighten it. i believe you test drove a manual bmw at an event that you posted here about half a year ago iirc, how would you compare to bmw's shifter vs this shifter bushings? its basically what I'm looking for it

Good memory! Yes I drove the 335i, but it was automatic. They were selling the Lexus IS, after all :rolleyes:. The BMW's shifters I've driven in the past tend to be very mushy and overdamped. They're tighter than most (have the little side-to-side movement) but there is literally no mechanical feeling to them. As is the clutch.

On the other side of the spectrum is the Mazda/Honda, which feel more mechanical. This is a transaxle, so there will be slop. But these help to communicate what's going on at the engine a bit better. Oh here's a good analogy. If you've ever stuck your hand down onto the actual shift lever on the transmission and put the car into gear from there, that's closer to the feeling these bushings impart on the shift knob.
 

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
Attaching pictures...

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XGC75

Go Kart Champion
Bled the brakes and threw some Stoptech pads in there yesterday. It feels so nice to have some brake modulation again! Also nice to feel them come on when I first dip into the pedal and not a couple inches in :rolleyes:

I did make a huge mistake, though. Without thinking I jacked up the car from the side skirts instead of the rocker panel. Now I need to figure out how to get the skirt trim back into place :cry:

uploadfromtaptalk1389548876541.jpg

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maisonvi

Ready to race!
Bled the brakes and threw some Stoptech pads in there yesterday. It feels so nice to have some brake modulation again! Also nice to feel them come on when I first dip into the pedal and not a couple inches in :rolleyes:

I did make a huge mistake, though. Without thinking I jacked up the car from the side skirts instead of the rocker panel. Now I need to figure out how to get the skirt trim back into place :cry:

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Oh no man! Is the jack ok? Just kidding.

Did you get it back together? Paint hurt at all?
 

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
Lol the jack is fine, asshole :D

No I haven't gotten it back together. I need to get it back up to figure out what I did to it. It doesn't just press back in :(

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maisonvi

Ready to race!
Lol the jack is fine, asshole :D

No I haven't gotten it back together. I need to get it back up to figure out what I did to it. It doesn't just press back in :(

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Well let me know if I can help. Im hoping to get my car back from the dealer Thursday (assuming no more electrical gremlins screw me). And I will be around this weekend for the most part.

Do you have a service manual for the car or anything? Most of those will show you how to take off (and subsequently) put back on stuff like that.
 

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
Installed the DV+ yesterday.

Installed, logged before and after. I feel a difference in boost onset and lag down low. Not so much when I shift. Holding about 1 psi higher in the midrange.

NO MORE WHISTLE.

Who wants to see some data?

Grabbed logs before and after installing the DV+.

Setup:
  • Car is a 2012 GTI 6mt 4-dr. Has 55k miles on it.
  • Vag-Com cable HEX-CAN +USB
  • Logged Bank 115 (turbo mode) (~12Hz sampling rate on average)
  • Bank 115 has RPM, engine load (%), boost requested and boost actual (mbar)
  • Engine was given plenty of time to warm up. It was fairly cool outside @~3C.

First, the 2nd-4th gear pulls:





Review:
  • Netiher the DV+ nor the RevD valve is/was leaking.
  • There doesn't seem to be a significant difference between peak boost holding.
  • I don't see a difference in the boost remaining after a shift or at the start of a new gear.
  • To confirm or deny my suspicions that the DV+ was building boost faster, I began looking at the slope of the boost curve. To quell any sampling error, I sampled 1 sample after the beginning and 1 sample before the end of the flat of each slope.

Boost Onset in 6th:





Review:
  • Not much to see here, really. The DV+ builds boost faster, but the RPM of its pull is also higher. Where those two factors are confounded, I can't make any conclusions.

Statistical evaluation:

Looking at 27 samples of boost lag slopes, we can start to identify trends to see if my butt dyno is right about the faster spooling. 11 of these samples, in red, are the RevD DV. The remaining 16 are the DV+. The pulls are spread across 2nd - 6th gears.



Review:
  • Here's the meat and potatoes. Though some pulls with the RevD DV spooled faster than the DV+, the DV on averages spools 100mbar/s faster than the RevD regardless of the engine speed. If you think about that constant as a percentage across the rev range, the DV+ would in effect spool faster than the OEM DV in the low range but not spool as much faster in the mid to high rev range.

One graph which I was not able to build is similar to the one above but each data point would be plotted across the rev band for which I took the slope of the boost.
 

2013R

Drag Race Newbie
The tooth connector fits right into the fuse socket.

i learn something new every day. only thing i would worry about is no fuse on that wire.
 

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
i learn something new every day. only thing i would worry about is no fuse on that wire.

Yeah that was a worry of mine, too. Fortunately there's current and temperature protection in the charge controller chip in the charger, but if the chip fails...

You got me thinking. Maybe I should rewire the panel so that the socket I'm currently using houses a fuse, which is for an adjacent socket where I plug in the tooth connector. That way anything I plug into it would be fuse protected. That'd be the charger, boost gauge and who knows what.

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XGC75

Go Kart Champion
Also, been ignoring this thread too much. This past Sunday, this happened:

uploadfromtaptalk1395412292038.jpg

I'm putting so much less miles on my car now that I live in the city I work. I doubt I'll hit 100k miles in the next few years at this rate :happyanim:

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2013R

Drag Race Newbie
Yeah that was a worry of mine, too. Fortunately there's current and temperature protection in the charge controller chip in the charger, but if the chip fails...

You got me thinking. Maybe I should rewire the panel so that the socket I'm currently using houses a fuse, which is for an adjacent socket where I plug in the tooth connector. That way anything I plug into it would be fuse protected. That'd be the charger, boost gauge and who knows what.

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you can buy that add-a-fuse i used in my hardwire videos and plug it right back in.
 
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