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Video of Door Creaking & Flexing Sound

xHeartcoreboyx

IceCream GTI
^
Link to your tape?

When driving on an artistic rough road that is made from stones, the driver's door sounds like it's open, jumping around...is this the sound in question?
 
Last edited:

dwp2

Ready to race!
^
Link to your tape?

When driving on an artistic rough road that is made from stones, the driver's door sounds like it's open, jumping around...is this the sound in question?

Yes, that's one of the sounds you'll get. On my car, it became much worse when that same motion caused squeaking noises.
 

90crvtec

Passed Driver's Ed
Shin-etsu grease on the door seals didn't work for me. Perhaps I'll try the tubing next.

BTW, does anyone know if this problem gets better/worse as the weather gets colder?
I still haven't had any creaking some back after one application of the Shinetsu grease on my car. However, I used a lot of the grease, the door seals should have a white tinge to them.

I also made sure to rub the grease in between the groove of the two seals, I think the door seals get mashed when the door is closed and that groove allows the two rubber seals to rub against each other and make the creaking sound.

I took my time applying the grease and really rubbed it into the seals. So far it has completely solved the issue for me.
 

SwiftGTI

Go Kart Champion
I still haven't had any creaking some back after one application of the Shinetsu grease on my car. However, I used a lot of the grease, the door seals should have a white tinge to them.

I also made sure to rub the grease in between the groove of the two seals, I think the door seals get mashed when the door is closed and that groove allows the two rubber seals to rub against each other and make the creaking sound.

I took my time applying the grease and really rubbed it into the seals. So far it has completely solved the issue for me.

Yeah, I rubbed the grease in between the groove of the two seals. I didn't rub it in deeply, just a light coating. I wonder if it's gotta be "massaged" in or something.

Also, did you also apply it to the felt door seal as well? I tried it on a small section, it seemed to color the felt white so I stopped...
 
P

plac

Guest
Also, did you also apply it to the felt door seal as well? I tried it on a small section, it seemed to color the felt white so I stopped...

yup, the white lithium grease on my 2010 GTI felt stained/ruined it.. it will never come out. i would never put lube there. that spot was never meant to be lubed.
 

Hilfloskind

Go Kart Champion
I hate to say but I haven't gotten around to doing this yet. I get such an annoying, little popping sound from the door area between the front and back doors on both sides. I also get a creaking sound entering steep driveways and parking lots at low speeds...I assume it's either chassis/door flex or suspension noise (rear in both instances). I actually did some slight striker adjustments and adjusted the two rubber bump stops on the hatch but it got worse (the popping noise) and didn't resolve the creak.

The dealership has not been helpful in regards to either complaint. They lubed the doors (per the repair order) but that made no difference. I need to do further striker adjustments (last one actually made wind noise more apparent) and get some tubing.
 

xHeartcoreboyx

IceCream GTI
My driver door didn't rattle before they messed with the adjustment, so i will just go back to them and ask them to readjust the driver's door only.
 

falanku

Ready to race!
I had my striker messed up by a dealer too, last night I found out that just adjusting the striker is not enough. I adjusted the door hinge and then the striker, now no wind noise, no rattles or creaks. There are 5 bolts that need to be loosened to be able to move it, it works perfectly. I was using the tube method before, but it made the door hard to close.
 
P

plac

Guest
I had my striker messed up by a dealer too, last night I found out that just adjusting the striker is not enough. I adjusted the door hinge and then the striker, now no wind noise, no rattles or creaks. There are 5 bolts that need to be loosened to be able to move it, it works perfectly. I was using the tube method before, but it made the door hard to close.

did you need to buy the special VW door hinge adjusting tool kit like i have, or were you able to use generic tools?
 

falanku

Ready to race!
I'd like to know this hinge procedure as well.

This is the tools i used.

1. Craftsman thin profile rachet
http://community.craftsman.com/Craftsman-3-pc-Thin-Profile-Ratchet-Set-reviews

2. snap on triple square bits 3/8"
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=22127&store=snapon-store

I tried many ratchets and are all too big. This seems to be the best combination I can find. The VAG torque ratchet is too expensive to buy for just one time use.

There are 5 bolts (2 triple square -the round ones and 3 of them are regular hex bolts but with triple square at the center too) that needs to be loosened.

i would recommend doing the top 2 first the the bottom 3. After that do the striker adjustment.

*Please also not that you will only need to loosen the bolts against the door, not the car frame.

Please note that if you loosen all 5 bolts the door will sag and will not close.

After the adjustments my driver side door is perfectly aligned, just like the passenger side door. Before the adjustment I was getting wind noise at high speeds, I found out that it came from the outer door seal by the A-Pillar, if looked closely, you would see the fabric like material sticking out. Now the car is perfectly silent! It takes some time to make a perfect adjustment, so please be patient.

I also stripped 2 of my bolts in the process of trying out different ratchets, so I had to go order new ones today. so please be careful.

I think the doors from the factory are really poorly aligned, and adjusting the striker only will not do the job in my case.
 
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