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Old 12-19-2013, 06:28 PM   #43
TAZZ
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52,000Km – GFB DV+

With the level of boost my car is running at stage 2+ I’ve been on the lookout for an aftermarket recirculation DV. Of course I considered at first the popular DV choices like the Forge or the Evoms. After doing some research however, it seemed that while all aftermarket DVs hold boost better than an OEM application, they sacrifice response and are slower to react. When I also got to drive my friend’s Golf R equipped with a Forge DV it became apparent that whenever I slightly lift-off and re-apply throttle there is a fractional pause until the boost comes back on; which is not the case with my OEM rev D. This is not a “flaw” of mechanical DVs but rather a characteristic of their mode of operation; as mechanical units vacuum operated with more components and hoses it is only normal that they take a bit more time to be pressurized to open and shut than an electronic application that reacts instantaneously to the ECU signal. I know it is often the case in tuning, but I’ve tried so far to avoid as much as possible having to compromise on “good” OEM functions, so the slower response won’t do it for me.

Then I came across a couple of reviews about the DV+ from GFB which caught my attention as it seemed like an interesting solution. But I had been also reading about this unit leaking and still needing some R&D for KO4 equipped cars, also that some users were experiencing fluttering issues etc…, so I shot GFB an e-mail to see if they had come-up with a definitive solution. I must say I was quite impressed with the quick reply of Brett @ GFB who confirmed that the KO4 DV+ was released and all leaking issues were addressed. He took the time to meticulously explain in thorough detail what was the issue and exactly how the DV+ works, thumbs-up for his top-notch customer service!

In brief, according to GFB the journal DV found in the GTI shuts pretty tight and does not leak, but with higher boost it will definitely crack. The Rev D piston DV found on the Golf R is indestructible it is however prone to leak by design. The DV+ replaces the “bad” part of the OEM DV and keeps the good by upgrading the factory piston, plunger and plunger spring with much stronger better designed components but maintaining the factory electronic-operated solenoid, also as an optional plus it comes with an additional large piston spring that can be installed between the reinforced plunger and the reinforced piston. At worst, WITHOUT installing that additional piston spring this results in boost holding capacity and durability similar to what aftermarket mechanical DVs offer, while at the same time offering the same quick response of the OEM electronic operated solenoid; so at worst you’ve got the best of both worlds … At best however, if you do chose to install the additional spring, it allows the DV to partially open venting just the right amount of air to prevent compressor surge while still maintaining boost pressure simply by reacting to BOTH the ECU command and the actual boost in the system, unlike the OEM valve that reacts solely to the ECU command by either completely opening or completely shutting. The result is actually an IMPROVEMENT of the already quick OEM response on top of the boost holding capacity and durability advantages of mechanical aftermarket DVs.
Brett also explained that the fluttering issues people were sometimes complaining about was much more a harmless “side-effect” resulting from the operation of the additional spring rather than an “issue”, and that on most cars it does not even occur. I was sold.

When I received the kit, I was not so surprised to see the tremendous quality of all its components, like all aftermarket DVs, and simply because they are compatible with such a large range of applications over several generations of model years the manufacturers will go through the expense of applying proper R&D and invest in the manufacturing process cause it’s worth it. Packaging is also impeccable with each component individually housed in protective foam and clear color-printed instructions.





Install:
Easy as pie;
1- Unplug the OEM DV plug;
2- Unscrew the three screws holding the rev d DV onto the recirculation pipe (depending on your intake setup you might want to unscrew that fourth screw holding the recirculation pipe in place, it makes things easier;
3- Pull-out firmly the piston on the rev d, it will just pop out without a fuss along with the silver OEM plunger revealing the white OEM solenoid and the flimsy OEM plunger spring;
4- Remove the OEM plunger spring;
At this stage you’d have removed all OEM components you don’t need (keep the yellow O-Ring);
5- Slip on the upgraded plunger spring, then the black plunger that comes with the DV+, then top it off with the anodized billet DV+ body there’s a marker to indicate the exact orientation, it comes with a black O-ring already fitted make sure it is there, and hold the entire assembly together;
6- If you want to fully benefit from the DV+, install the optional large piston spring, if not skip this step;
7- Apply a little engine oil on the sidewalls of the piston and slide it in its housing on the billet body;
8- Introduce the whole assembly by carefully holding it together into the recirculation pipe housing make sure the plug housing remains on its original orientation;
9- Screw-in the new longer bolts supplied with the DV+ kit until lock-up; you will notice the whole assembly joints will be bonded flush tight… and voila.
Of course I chose to install the piston spring, it would be stupid not to try it out at least, then worst case remove it if it causes any unbearable fluttering noise.




Outcome:
I immediately felt a noticeable improvement in the initial spool-up of the car. Picking up any gear and accelerating from down low feels much better, merely feathering the throttle gives as much grunt as a good decent stomp on the pedal normally would . You can really feel the urgency building up sooner in the revs and on throttle application. The best I can describe it is as if the boost was “pre-charged” if it makes any sense. Somehow it feels like the turbo spool threshold has diminished! This is more noticeable on partial throttle/lift-off. I was particularly relieved to notice no fluttering or other side-effect at all in fact the DV+ does not sound any different than the OEM rev d.
In the higher revs and in the mid-range, I really feel the car pushing harder, the torque feels less peaky and more flat. The Polar FIS confirms that the peak boost is held over broader revs, and on gear shifts (remember my car is DSG) there is a kick in the butt feeling that thrusts the car forward every time I shift. It seems my OEM DV was a bit leaking.

Bottom line it has made both the daily and spirited drives much more enjoyable, I am super happy with it and highly recommend it!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DV1.JPG (119.0 KB, 3763 views)
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File Type: jpg DV3.JPG (129.9 KB, 3754 views)
File Type: jpg DV4.JPG (129.7 KB, 3779 views)
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336 awhp / 357 awtq - Build

Last edited by TAZZ; 12-23-2013 at 08:18 AM.
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Old 02-03-2014, 02:57 PM   #44
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Great thread, really like the DEI tape and Sprint Booster posts. I really like those little details. Any updates?
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Old 03-26-2014, 06:54 PM   #45
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55.000Km - Driver Motorsport Tune

After more than 3.5 years of happy ownership you can get accustomed to the power of your car, so I’ve been looking for ways to regain that “wow” effect.

Since I had sort of maximized the power on my current setup I initially thought that my only option was to go for hardware upgrades. Then I came across many threads here and there that were claiming power gains just from switching their tunes to a company called DRIVER MOTORSPORT.
When it turned out DM had made its way to our side of the pond and that the dealer happened to be a friend, I decided to give it a try.

Let me first say that I’ve been very happy with the way my car ran, and like I already mentioned in this thread Upsolute had done a really good job. Even on my way to the DM dealer I was having second thoughts and I would’ve never tried switching if I did not have the possibility to revert back to my long-lived and proven tune.

Long story short I had my car switched to stock tune , purchased the DM programmer, and shot Bronson@DM an e-mail giving details as to what hardware was on the car and my daily commute preferences. After I drove away (on stock tune)… I gave the car a WOT run… and from that placid instant, I did not rev the car past 3000rpms to avoid mental depression… lol. Couple of days later I receive the DM stage2+ file supposedly “customized” for my setup. Took 20 minutes to upload via the programmer with clear onscreen instructions, no fuss. The DM programmer can store up to 3 tunes (stock plus two) and allows to switch programs via the OBDII port which is convenient.

Although my expectations were quite low, I must admit that I immediately felt a difference. I hate to say this…. But what an improvement! I was really surprised that my car could actually improve that much over an otherwise pretty good tune! Actually the whole power delivery felt very different, much more linear in the spool-up zone with less drama but more thrust, and past 4000rpms it was MUCH more aggressive pulling like a freight train with steady uncorrected urgency till redline.

I think the difference is more felt in the “average hp” throughout the revs more that in peak figures, altough there's definitely a gain in peak hp as well. Butt dyno could easily tell that the car picked quite some ponies in the mid-range and top-end over the previous tune… so much that there was no need for an actual Dyno. But given the outcome I was just curious to actually read the result on a graph, so we hooked the car up and below came the result:




326.2 awhp and a whopping 356.9 awtq, as measured on a Dynocom AWD dyno, on a 72F (23Celsius) warm day that’s as close as it can get to DM’s own advertised 323whp! And very much in line and/or higher than all the major tuners’ advertised claims (not bashing, just saying). I'm especially happy with how similar my curve looks to the one advertised on the DM official website, which roughly means that things are running the way they should
Bronson posted my results on here.

This result shows that high numbers ARE achievable with a stock MAF housing / Airbox, although I am sure that with a true ram CAI I can straighten a bit that power curve in the 5K to 6K area which drops in a more pronounced way.

What's better the polar FIS showed that my file had indeed been customized to take full advantage of the RS4 HPRV as I was seeing fuel rail pressure north of 136bar This of course means a bit faster wear on the cam follower, so I’ll just have to decrease my cam service interval a bit, not a problem.
To top it off and most importantly my timing retard CF was reading steady 0s on all cylinders, with maybe a very occasional -1.x that would show up for a fraction of a sec at redline shifting (remember I am DSG) or on initial throttle.

Bottom line, I came from a very good tune and company with whom I was very satisfied, and ended-up with an even better-er one, didn’t know this sort of thing could happen lol... thumbs up and huge thanks to DM and especially Bronson for an amazing job

Anyone considering DM but hesitating to pull the trigger is wasting precious time!
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336 awhp / 357 awtq - Build

Last edited by TAZZ; 03-28-2014 at 04:53 AM.
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:48 PM   #46
lilfleck
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Nice thread man. Love the car. Wish I could get a DSG Golf R in the states... I would be on that right now!
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:17 AM   #47
TAZZ
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Originally Posted by lilfleck View Post
Nice thread man. Love the car. Wish I could get a DSG Golf R in the states... I would be on that right now!
Thank you man. Just read ur GTI's death good ur alright though
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336 awhp / 357 awtq - Build
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:52 AM   #48
TAZZ
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62.000km - Fondmetal 9RR Lightweight Wheels

Got an excellent deal on these 18 inch FONDMETAL 9RR lightweights straight from Italy. These guys are involved in motorsport including F1
Weight is just at 17.8lbs
I did not get the chance to weigh the OEM Tallys but they felt noticeably heavier.

Offset is ET45 so there is enough clearance for the BBK without the 10mm spacers.

I must say I am really impressed; I did not expect lightweight wheels to make such a difference; acceleration is noticeably improved, much more than what I felt when upgrading to a lightweight pulley, so much that I can induce a bit of wheel spin on some first gear launches. The car also handles and brakes better...
I was doing it mainly for the looks, turns out as a true performance mod.

Sorry compressed pics...











Found out later that these are the same used by German tuner MTM for their Golf R MK7 for much more $$$



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336 awhp / 357 awtq - Build

Last edited by TAZZ; 07-16-2014 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:10 PM   #49
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So all these upgrades and the car has been reliable? Amazing. Thanks for all your posts. I can only dream of doing this to my R.
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Old 07-16-2014, 05:40 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by ides1056 View Post
So all these upgrades and the car has been reliable? Amazing. Thanks for all your posts. I can only dream of doing this to my R.
Thx
Yes fortunately the car has been very reliable 'touch on wood'.
That's partly luck, but mostly because 1- it's been properly tuned, 2- impeccably maintained and 3- responsibly driven.

To give you an idea about the "properly tuned part", this is a pic (sorry for the quality) showing my timing retard on high load, low range rpm 3rd gear pull on the hottest day the car has ever seen (temp was exceptionally high at 39C - 102.2F and that was at night without the sun contributing, so air was really thin!!!!!!), that's hard to believe for stage2+:



Also when I install an upgrade I always log and monitor figures and if I don't like what I see I just remove it.

As to maintenance, these are my intervals :
Every 5,000Km - 3,107 miles: engine oil and oil filter replacement;
Every 10,000Km - 6,214 miles: fuel filter replacement, and air filter cleaning;
Every 20,000Km - 12,427 miles : cam follower replacement;
Every 30,000Km - 18,641 miles : DSG fluid and filter replacement;
Every 60,000Km - 37,282 miles: Haldex coupling oil change (done only once).

And I only use Motul 300V fully synthetic oil: 5W30 in winter and 5W40 in summer.
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336 awhp / 357 awtq - Build

Last edited by TAZZ; 07-16-2014 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:26 PM   #51
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Nice build thread!
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Old 07-19-2014, 05:54 PM   #52
0-60Motorsports
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Awesome build and fantastic reviews.
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Old 07-21-2014, 04:22 PM   #53
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Probably a stupid question already asked somewhere else.

What are the red lines on your speedo at 30 and 50 km/h for?
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:27 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAZZ View Post
Thx
Yes fortunately the car has been very reliable 'touch on wood'.
That's partly luck, but mostly because 1- it's been properly tuned, 2- impeccably maintained and 3- responsibly driven.

To give you an idea about the "properly tuned part", this is a pic (sorry for the quality) showing my timing retard on high load, low range rpm 3rd gear pull on the hottest day the car has ever seen (temp was exceptionally high at 39C - 102.2F and that was at night without the sun contributing, so air was really thin!!!!!!), that's hard to believe for stage2+:



Also when I install an upgrade I always log and monitor figures and if I don't like what I see I just remove it.

As to maintenance, these are my intervals :
Every 5,000Km - 3,107 miles: engine oil and oil filter replacement;
Every 10,000Km - 6,214 miles: fuel filter replacement, and air filter cleaning;
Every 20,000Km - 12,427 miles : cam follower replacement;
Every 30,000Km - 18,641 miles : DSG fluid and filter replacement;
Every 60,000Km - 37,282 miles: Haldex coupling oil change (done only once).

And I only use Motul 300V fully synthetic oil: 5W30 in winter and 5W40 in summer.
Have to keep in mind that when IAT is high, such as 40-60* C, the Driver Motorsport 2+ calibration will remove timing advance. So a reason for zero CF is related to the fact that ECU is requesting less timing advance. We did spend quite a bit of time to make sure that this file can be driven anywhere and the OEM compensational tables will be just as accurate as it was with OEM software.
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:12 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Driver Motorsport View Post
Have to keep in mind that when IAT is high, such as 40-60* C, the Driver Motorsport 2+ calibration will remove timing advance. So a reason for zero CF is related to the fact that ECU is requesting less timing advance. We did spend quite a bit of time to make sure that this file can be driven anywhere and the OEM compensational tables will be just as accurate as it was with OEM software.
It's facts like this, that make me think about WMI. Heat and humidity is bad where I am. Anyone in the southeastern/south central US knows what I'm talking about.
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Old 06-15-2015, 05:20 AM   #56
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Any more updates? Did you get an upgraded IC?
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