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Old 07-15-2016, 09:16 AM   #505
XGC75
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Done. The car runs utterly fantastic now. After 17 weeks and 4500 miles I'm finally out of the fog and mud.

Not only are the MAP issues fixed, but I have a new IM and water pump under warranty.

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THE CAR WORKS AGAIN.

Fuck.

I haven't looked under the hood to see the changes with my own eyes yet, but they did 5 things:

1) New intake manifold
2) New MAP sensor
3) Fixed the connector
4) Fixed vacuum lines to the N75
5) Replaced the water pump

Okay, not all are related to this issue. However, this is the time to throw a warm shout-out to Team VW/Audi in Merriville, IN. These guys are the shit. Not only can I walk in back and tool around with the techs, explain all the things I've done, take a few for an extended drive (literally 3: a tech, junior tech and master tech), hear and discuss the solutions and plan out the order of repairs with them, but they also got the intake manifold and the water pump covered under warranty for my 100k mile nearly 5-year old k04'd car. So I got all the above done for $410. Well worth it.

Let's take this piece-by piece.

The intake manifold actuator arm was broken. The actuator itself was okay and the arm itself was okay, but the shaft that goes into the interior of the IM and moves the flappers was moving into and out of the IM by about 1.5 cm. They typically move a bit but the master tech confirmed right away that it was bad. We sprayed some ether on the shaft and it didn't mess with the engine idle in either the "out" or "in" positions but the car struggled slightly when it was in the middle of travel. So this wasn't causing surging but it was doing 2 things: 1) letting unmetered air leave the system when going from vacuum to boost and accepting unmetered air when going from boost to vacuum; and 2) throwing off trims as a result. I bet this had everything to do with the kinda 'surge-y' unpredictable behavior during part-throttle acceleration around town.

The MAP sensor replacement threw me for a fucking loop. I'd replaced the damn thing 3 fucking times now. The first time was when I got the k04 installed and tuned to APR k04 v3.1 and the first sensor I bought didn't seem to work. I chaulked that up at the time to the harness not engaging fully. The second time was when this mess first started. That one never seemed to work. When I got a call from Marty (service manager - ask for him by name and tell him Trevor sent you!) the first time, he told me that the sensor in the car (call it the second sensor I bought) didn't pass their tests and the third sensor I bought (the one I butchered) did. Obviously they couldn't send me home with a sensor that doesn't latch the connector into place so they got another. Anyways fuck those sensors.

I haven't seen exactly what they did to the harness, but I hope they replaced the solder joints with VW service-approved crimp-on butts. We were talking about just wiring the sensor directly into the ECU but I'm not sure they even got to that point considering the MAP sensor in the car was faulty. I didn't see anything about the connectors or harness on the bill at any rate.

They mentioned that the vacuum lines to the N75 were kinked and that they'd take care of it. Personally I didn't think that would be the cause of the surging issues because (I believe) they're there to transmit pressure levels and they don't need to flow a whole lot. Therefore as long as the kink didn't completely block airflow it'd be okay. But hey, I won't complain that they fixed them. Certainly gives me one less thing to worry about.

Last is the water pump. Frankly I would have preferred it wasn't touched beacuse I (knock judiciously on wood) haven't had any issues with it in 100k miles and don't suppose I would have in the second half of the car's life. But hey, it was free work and if I have any problems I know who to call about it.

So that's that. I bet the initial issues with the car were indeed the MAP sensor. The second sensor clearly didn't engage with the stock harness properly. Things looked better for a few days when I replaced the N75 and took off and replaced the MAP connector. Not really sure why it was good there, but then the more I messed with the harness the worse it got. I can't say unfortunately whether it was those spade connectors not making a good connection or the MAP I had going schizo. I suppose I'll know once I see what they did with the harness. If it's untouched then it was surely the MAP sensor this whole time, though even the "good" sensor (the third I bought) didn't work in any of those configurations (except the last configuration which I didn't try).
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A couple clarifications on my previous post after looking in the engine bay. First, it appears they didn't do anything to the harness. My harness works! That's a good feeling. Also they didn't clean up the vacuum lines. This agrees with the bill.

Another note about drivability. The intake manifold was causing the hesitations on acceleration. The hesitations came on so slowly and gradually I didn't really notice them. They were hard to characterize. If I recall correctly, whenever I went WOT I'd get a bunch of boost, then a split-second hesitation, then full boost again. It makes so much sense now that I think about it: That shaft in the IM was acting as a limited-travel "plug". When I was in vacuum it sealed inside the IM. when I was in boost it sealed outside the IM. When it transitioned, it wasn't sealed and I'd leak a bunch of air, hence the hesitation and the loss of boost. In fact, I bet the pressure wave was picked up by the MAP and triggered the DV. Now it's all smooth. No hesitation, just fluid boost and torque. Lovely.
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:33 AM   #506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XGC75 View Post
A couple clarifications on my previous post after looking in the engine bay. First, it appears they didn't do anything to the harness. My harness works! That's a good feeling. Also they didn't clean up the vacuum lines. This agrees with the bill.

Another note about drivability. The intake manifold was causing the hesitations on acceleration. The hesitations came on so slowly and gradually I didn't really notice them. They were hard to characterize. If I recall correctly, whenever I went WOT I'd get a bunch of boost, then a split-second hesitation, then full boost again. It makes so much sense now that I think about it: That shaft in the IM was acting as a limited-travel "plug". When I was in vacuum it sealed inside the IM. when I was in boost it sealed outside the IM. When it transitioned, it wasn't sealed and I'd leak a bunch of air, hence the hesitation and the loss of boost. In fact, I bet the pressure wave was picked up by the MAP and triggered the DV. Now it's all smooth. No hesitation, just fluid boost and torque. Lovely.
.
So was there any reason to be replacing the MAP again since it seems it was the intake flaps causing all your issues, or did I miss something? Either way, glad to hear the car is back up and running strong!
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Old 07-15-2016, 11:32 AM   #507
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No, the MAP was indeed faulty. The new MAP was good but I'd cut the connector surround off of it so we couldn't re-use it. The intake flaps were causing a separate issue than the MAP sensor. The small leak out the flapper shaft was causing some on-throttle hesitation.

My take on the MAP sensor is that the bad harness connection caused the sensors to go bad. Intermittent power from a bad connection can be pretty damaging to some sensors. Maybe that's just what I want to think because I want to think it's fixed for good.

Sincerely, XGC75
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Old 07-15-2016, 01:27 PM   #508
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After driving this car more I'm amazed at how well it's behaving. There is no hunting around for boost. I set the throttle angle, the car just ups boost until a point and it sticks there dead solid. Even as the engine revs up. The needle doesn't jump around during transitions, either. It's all so smooth.

One more very important thing: no more boost lost during shifts. I can dump the clutch 2nd to 3rd and the car just jumps ahead and doesn't let up. Definitely because of the IM update.

This is crazy. I didn't know the car was supposed to behave like this; it instills a little more faith in me for Bosch/VW engine controls.

EDIT: and the traction control. It wasn't working properly before but it will now just barely keep me from blowing the tires off. Shit's fast.

Last edited by XGC75; 07-15-2016 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:46 PM   #509
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At tire rack right now getting some Blizzak LM001 tires installed onto the Nurbs. It's going to be nice to roll around in the winter with some decent looking wheels. I did try to get a warranty honored for my 24424mi PSS, but they didn't believe I'd get anywhere with Michelin with chunks off the tread blocks from my proclaimed "spirited street driving."

Other recent developments: had to call my wife for a jump the other day after leaving the car off with accessory and radio on. It's a 5yr old battery, whatever. Also my rear brakes started dragging metal, so I'm installing the cryo blank rears with new pads this afternoon.

Last, I crawled under the car for my oil change and saw this. No wonder I hear clunks over uneven roads.



Other than that, I'm still bummed about the mod budget. Shit just isn't looking good. I'm back in the red after purchasing the winter tires and rear brakes, will be further in the red after a battery, new licence plate bulb, bolts for the subframe and red paint for the calipers, then by the time I'm back in the black I'll have to be saving for summer tires again.

And all I really want are LED bulbs for the F+R turn signals.

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Old 05-21-2017, 09:40 PM   #510
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This weekend turned to shit when I fucked up a routine spark plug and oil change. I dropped BKR8EIX size 5044 down the cylinder head before I realized they didn't fit. The 5044s have a 13/16" hex pattern instead of the 5/8ths of the 2668 that you're supposed to have in this car. Then when I went in to extract them, as is the nature of those spark plug sockets with the rubber grommets in them, I had to press on the plugs just as much as I was able to pull on them. Keep in mind that, since I'm doing an oil change at the same time, the engine is really hot.



So I ran out to the hardware store to get some long pliers but in the meantime the engine cooled and contracted around the plugs. What a mess. I tried twisting them out with the spark plug socket. I tried pulling them out with the pliers. I tried getting a better grab on them with the spark plug socket and hot glue, super glue, rubber adhesive, JB Weld ; but nothing, not even the JB Weld could grab more than 80 in-lbs before it gave.



So I go to a buddy's house to try and mill down a 13/16" deep well socket so that I could get between the cylinder walls and the socket hex. Spent 2 hours meticulously taking 2 thousanths of an inch radius at a time, but ultimately it still broke. It would never have had enough strength to torque the plugs out anyhow.



As a last ditch effort before footing the $2000 dealership bill to have them remove the plugs, I found the smallest socket I could fit over the body of the plug, filled it up with enough JB Weld to double its weight, then left it overnight to dry (this was day 4, by the way).



It worked. I had to twist ~200 in-lbs of torque while lifting up on the socket to get the plug out. Spent another 4 hours getting metal fucking shards out of the cylinder. First, a shop vac that did nothing, then a magnet, then a magnet with aluminum tape upside down on the tip (aluminum so that I could form it around the tip of the magnet and it wouldn't fall off), then finally the outlet of the vacuum to blow shit around in the cylinder and I could pick up any other pieces I could reach with the magnet.







Alas! It drives. It makes great power with the new (correct) plugs. Tomorrow I have a dealership appointment to get the front end patched back together (extract the front seat bar bracket bolt mentioned in the last post and add the missing tyrolsport collar), get a toe alignment and maybe add APRs NLS feature. Not sure on that one yet.

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Old 05-21-2017, 10:06 PM   #511
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Wow, that was a tough lesson to learn. Always check the new plug against an old one you have removed before proceeding. Glad you perseverance paid off.
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:54 AM   #512
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holy cow. Only you Trev....
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Old 05-22-2017, 11:15 AM   #513
XGC75
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Thanks Jay

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Old 06-05-2017, 08:46 PM   #514
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Turns out I'm the most powerful sport compact car in SW MI

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Old 06-23-2017, 10:16 PM   #515
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Turns out I'm the most powerful sport compact car in SW MI

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Umm....lol

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Old 06-23-2017, 10:44 PM   #516
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Sorry did I need to specify the most powerful running compact car in SW MI?

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Old 06-24-2017, 04:05 PM   #517
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Sorry did I need to specify the most powerful running compact car in SW MI?

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Hey, I'm running just fine. Was out to gingerman Wednesday. She is up in the air right now but that's just to swap tires/brakes back and maybe replace that serp belt I some how 1/2 shredded.

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