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Old 01-11-2017, 03:25 PM   #1
Vengeance
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Exclamation Oil leaks on both sides of the block...

So I recently pulled the panels off of the passenger wheelwell to get a look at the Timing Chain Tensioner and I found a large amount of oil. So after I looked around a bit and took some pictures, I decided to look around to see if I could see any oil anywhere else. It looked like there was some oil coming out of one of the turbo bolt holes, and where the Transmission meets the Block

I have had some people suggest it is the cam holder gasket and the upper and lower timing chain cover gasket and the rear main seal and that I have a blown turbo (No smoke that I can see though).

Do these things that they have suggested make sense or am I looking at something else?
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:47 PM   #2
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how many miles on your car? Check this thread for the upper timing chain gasket
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85417

This oil leak can lead to waterpump failure. The hot oil drips on the plastic water pump housing causing it to deform and spring a leak.
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Old 01-11-2017, 04:03 PM   #3
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how many miles on your car? Check this thread for the upper timing chain gasket
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85417

This oil leak can lead to waterpump failure. The hot oil drips on the plastic water pump housing causing it to deform and spring a leak.
Had the water pump replaced 6 Months ago under warrentey when I bought the car. I didn't realize how bad it was because the dealership I bought the car from, cleaned the oil off of the block before they sold it and after they replaced the water pump...
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:55 AM   #4
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The upper cam girdle/valve cover seal is not a gasket, just sealant (green). But I'd assume that's where the oil is coming from on top.

The oil on the lower timing cover looks to be coming from behind the crank pulley, which would mean the crank pulley seal in the timing cover is bad. Since you have a 2010, I'd just buy the cover and a new tensioner and kill two birds with one stone.

Most tensioner update kits also include the upper timing cover (plastic piece) gasket, which looks to be leaking as well.

If the rear main seal is leaking you'll see it coming out of the weep hole in the bottom of the trans where it meets the engine block. You didn't include pictures of this, so I don't know if that's where it's coming from or not.

Finally, I'd check the PCV. All of these leaks would have me curious as to if the PCV went bad and overpressurized the crank case, ruining all of these seals.
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Old 01-12-2017, 11:13 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by *****2.0t View Post
The upper cam girdle/valve cover seal is not a gasket, just sealant (green). But I'd assume that's where the oil is coming from on top.

The oil on the lower timing cover looks to be coming from behind the crank pulley, which would mean the crank pulley seal in the timing cover is bad. Since you have a 2010, I'd just buy the cover and a new tensioner and kill two birds with one stone.

Most tensioner update kits also include the upper timing cover (plastic piece) gasket, which looks to be leaking as well.

If the rear main seal is leaking you'll see it coming out of the weep hole in the bottom of the trans where it meets the engine block. You didn't include pictures of this, so I don't know if that's where it's coming from or not.

Finally, I'd check the PCV. All of these leaks would have me curious as to if the PCV went bad and overpressurized the crank case, ruining all of these seals.
Thank you for all of this info. I have a lot of things to work on I see. I ordered the Timing Chain Replacement Kit this morning so I am starting there.
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Old 01-12-2017, 05:48 PM   #6
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How many miles on it?
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:18 AM   #7
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I would check the pcv before you get too involved replacing gaskets. If it's had and the crankcase is over pressurized you will be throwing money away when you blow all the new gaskets you put in.
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Old 01-13-2017, 11:40 AM   #8
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How many miles on it?
74,000 - Just hit it about an hour ago lol
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Old 01-13-2017, 11:42 AM   #9
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I would check the pcv before you get too involved replacing gaskets. If it's had and the crankcase is over pressurized you will be throwing money away when you blow all the new gaskets you put in.
I will have to look, Is there a rebuild for this if it has failed, or do I have to replace it outright?
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:58 PM   #10
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I would check the pcv before you get too involved replacing gaskets. If it's had and the crankcase is over pressurized you will be throwing money away when you blow all the new gaskets you put in.
It looks as though this has been replaced at some point. This is a 10 Car, and it has revision E instead of just A with no letters after it.

After some research, it appears as though the latest revision is AH
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Old 02-11-2017, 01:53 PM   #11
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It looks as though this has been replaced at some point. This is a 10 Car, and it has revision E instead of just A with no letters after it.



After some research, it appears as though the latest revision is AH


Pcv's go bad at irregular intervals. Could be a month, could be years. They are crap and poorly made. I'd replace the pcv and brake clean the F out of the entire engine and get it clean. Then reassess.
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Old 06-27-2017, 01:24 AM   #12
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I'm having a similar problem as well in my 2011 GTI with 89,000 miles. What was the final solution to the problem?
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Old 06-27-2017, 04:58 AM   #13
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Pcv's go bad at irregular intervals. Could be a month, could be years. They are crap and poorly made. I'd replace the pcv and brake clean the F out of the entire engine and get it clean. Then reassess.
I agree with trying this first!
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