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Old 05-17-2017, 05:12 PM   #71
gtimk6spd
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So after an abysmal drag day the other weekend I have redone my short shift kit. I altered the side to side bracket cable and shifting is much more crisp. Can't believe I waited so long to try this. Hopefully now I can get into gears more easily going down the strip.

I will try getting to the drag strip this weekend if the weather holds out. All I have to do is beat my laughable 14.867 quarter mile at 87.17 mph. My quickest trap speed was 99.85 mph but at 15.843 seconds. So I'm shooting for high 13s and around 100-105 mph. With warmer weather for the tires and a proper shift I should at the very least improve my times.
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:33 PM   #72
gtimk6spd
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Went back to the drag strip today after reinstalling my short shift kit again. It's even better this time, but I still can't power through the gears like I feel it should be able to. I ordered an upgraded shifter bushing from dieselgeek and will see if that helps at all.

New times are pretty much the same as last time. Fastest 1/4 mile E/T is 14.654 at 88.79 mph. Most of my runs are right around 14.7 E/T, 2.3 60 ft, and either 88 mph or 99 mph without fail lol. When I got home my DV+ had arrived so I installed it. The hardest part was removing the clip for the electrical stuff. Every video I watched skipped that part.

Anyway I do notice a difference with the DV+ vs my stock "C" DV. City driving is very smooth. Before around 2.3-2.8k my car would feel like it lost boost (even if at 0 psi). It wasn't smooth before, but now the car accelerates like it's N/A under no boost and light boost. On top of that when I'm WOT the boost gauge needle no longer flutters rapidly somewhere around 18 psi. It goes and sits at 18 psi steady and tapers off. I haven't watched the taper to see if there's any difference, but the shake from the stock DV is completely gone! So happy about that.

As for butt dyno it seems like the power comes on smoother under boost. Quicker I'm really not sure if it's anything more than placebo. I'll go back to the drag strip soon and see if there's any difference.

Lastly I am back to the darn P0302 code. Bummer because I don't know what is causing it.
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2010 GTI 6MT CW 2 DR | APR Stage 2 | APR DP | APR Cabonio Intake | APR Catch Can | APR Pendulum | WaveTrac LSD | Southbend Stage 2 Daily | DieselGeek Sigma 6 | AWE Catback DBT | Neuspeed Hi-Flo | ARM FMIC | ARM TOP | NewSouth Boost Gauge | 034 Dogbone | 034 Subframe | TyrolSport Master Bracket | "R8" Coils

Last edited by gtimk6spd; 08-05-2017 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 08-09-2017, 07:27 PM   #73
gtimk6spd
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Looking at my 1/8th mile speed I'm consistently at 76-77 mph. However at the 1/4th I'll hit 88 or 99 mph, why would this be? If I'm already rolling at the same speed and time (9.7 seconds) wouldn't my 1/4 mile be the same? I can only think it's due to shifting at different points or another issue with the car.

Installed a shifter bushing from dieselgeek today. I am a little disappointed that, for $29, there is no new crimp clamp included. I just reused my old one. I pried it open slightly with a hex key just enough to pull the shift knob off (with some force) and was able to crimp it back on no problems. I would be fine with this but in the dieselgeek install videos it shows cutting off the crimp and no mention of needing a new one (as in it is not included). First impressions are that nothing has changed. My old bushings were squishy but not torn. I went for a quick drive and it does seem a little easier to get into gears with confidence. I've yet to really drive and evaluate it though.

A problem I had was getting the retaining clip apart from the old upper bushing. Used some hex keys to separate it and then it was easy to pull the clip off.




Anyway there is no play in the shift shaft anymore. Is this amount of play left over normal for our cars, and is there any improvements that can be made?

https://youtu.be/BZSaU7ES4jU
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Old 08-10-2017, 06:03 PM   #74
thewalkingdad
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You've put a ton of work into your car. Keep up the good work.
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Old 08-17-2017, 07:16 PM   #75
gtimk6spd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewalkingdad View Post
You've put a ton of work into your car. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! I just installed a turbo outlet pipe (TOP) yesterday too. I wanted to get more photos but my hands were so dirty that I didn't want to keep touching my phone haha.

Anyway I went with ARM Motorsports for this piece. It looks nice and is a little cheaper than the AWE one.

Tools I used were T25 torx, T30 torx, 10 mm wrench and a 7 mm wrench. Sockets may or may not work depending on the orientation of the clamps and if you have deep sockets or not. I ended up using my old clamps and the aluminum piece in between the pipe and silicone hose. I didn't use the new silicone either. The reason I did not use the new aluminum piece is because it sat very loosely in the pipe and I wasn't sure that was correct. It also did not have a o-ring like the OEM part, and the OEM ring was too large for this piece.

There were no instructions at all in the box or that I found on their site. The install is relitively easy, but I am still left wondering why their included aluminum piece is so much smaller that OEM and doesn't fit snugly. Maybe it is meant to be that way, but I didn't take the chance.

The parts for install.


Old pancake pipe.


New pipe.


To install:
1. I jacked my car up, set it on jack stands, and removed the wheel.
2. I took the fender liner off (if that's what it's called?) using a torx t20 bit. There are lots of these to remove. They're in the wheel well and under the front bumper area. That piece pulls out toward the back of the car.
3. Then I loosened the two torx t30 bits holding the old TOP in place. I probably should have loosened the band clamps first that hold the silicone on the pipe, but it didn't mess anything up in my case. The pipe just wiggled while initially breaking the nuts loose.
4. Wriggling the pipe and twisting allowed me to get it free and out of the car.
5. Took the metal clip off the OEM pipe using a wrench to pry it up. Anything will work, but I had a 7 mm wrench handy and it fit fine. Just pull the tab sticking out and the clip will come loose. After that it can be done by hand on the new pipe if you need to rearrange it.
6. Tried fitting the new aluminum adapter in the new pipe. It was very loose. I ended up using the OEM piece here. Replaced the clip (don't think it makes a difference on the new pipe).
7. The same clip that held the aluminum adapter to the OEM pipe is found at the turbo outlet. This holds a metal piece with silicone attached in it. Took the clip out and pulled the silicone/metal out.
8. Transferred grommets from old pipe to new one. Pull the screws out first, then the grommets. Installing on the new pipe is the opposite. Push in the grommets and then insert the screws.
9. Shoved the new pipe into the stock silicone from the turbo outlet. At first I didn't push it deep enough and the pipe was going to be rubbing against my frame. It also scrunched the stock silicone by the turbo outlet and basically kinked it. I took everything back out and pushed the pipe as far down as I could, leaving about 1" between the TOP and the metal adapter (piece that attaches to turbo). I had to stretch the stock silicone quite a bit while doing this. A slightly oiled finger inside the silicone while pushing and rotating helped here.
10. Put the metal/silicone adapter back in the turbo outlet. Reinserted the "snap ring" to lock it in place.
11. Screwed in the two t30 torx bolts to secure the pipe. It didn't line up the first time when I didn't push the TOP far enough. After having it seated much further in the silicone and rotated correctly the bolts lined right up.
12. Attached the silicone (front bumper side) to the TOP and tightened the clamp.
13. Reinstalled the fender lining and bolts.

Here are a bunch of photos showing where bolts are (and misc. pics). They may not be in the best order, imgur or my computer messed up the order of things when transferring. You can click if you need to make them larger. First one is of the aluminum adapter I did not end up using.



















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2010 GTI 6MT CW 2 DR | APR Stage 2 | APR DP | APR Cabonio Intake | APR Catch Can | APR Pendulum | WaveTrac LSD | Southbend Stage 2 Daily | DieselGeek Sigma 6 | AWE Catback DBT | Neuspeed Hi-Flo | ARM FMIC | ARM TOP | NewSouth Boost Gauge | 034 Dogbone | 034 Subframe | TyrolSport Master Bracket | "R8" Coils

Last edited by gtimk6spd; 08-19-2017 at 04:32 PM.
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