Hey everyone, posted something a while back about losing power in boost. Ended up being the clutch plus the RMS blew. Clutch replaced and RMS while everything was out, drove it for a week then RMS blew again (assumption) Went to a VW dealer and they said yea its the RMS again. Then I went to the shop I got it done and explained to them its blown again. They had it this past week and installed an OEM RMS, before they gave me the keys they tested it and its still leaking. They said they're gonna try some more things, I suggested the iABED RMS but since I'm not paying for anything (dealer compliments) they want to use the OEM RMS. I understand that there shouldn't be anything wrong with the OEM RMS but I'm thinking about just buying the iABED RMS myself and giving it to them to install. ALTHOUGH I think the reason for the RMS blowing twice is the PCV system, there's a noticeable ticking from the enigne that isn't valves, I've seen it in a video on here and the suspect was the PCV system, there's a senor on the front of the engine sort of above the throttle body that 'vibrates' with the ticking noise. I'll try to find the video, but my VW doesn't tick like that all the time, it seems to be only with the weather or just here and there. My question is: if I get the iABED RMS but not replace the PCV will the iABED RMS keep in those pressures until I get a catch can / PCV deletion? Or will it actually hold it too much and 'blow' my engine? Just throwing ideas here. Thanks!
6
Fighting with RMS
- Thread starter demon342
- Start date
https://youtu.be/Vj3BQKT4N3M
This is the video I saw and it sounds exactly like what I would hear. Also the "sensor" I was referring to was the N80 purge valve.
This is the video I saw and it sounds exactly like what I would hear. Also the "sensor" I was referring to was the N80 purge valve.
Carlosfandang0
Autocross Newbie
You MUST change the PCV when replacing the rear main as the PCV system is what would have caused the RMS to fail! Without replacement the rear main will leak again, is the new rear main the latest revision? If so it has a different fitting procedure than the earlier revision and WILL leak straight away if fitted like the earlier one due to the seal lip inverting upon fitting, here are a few pictures of the fitting instructions,
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Carlosfandang0
Autocross Newbie
Old style
New style (both have the same face showing)
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New style (both have the same face showing)
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Carlosfandang0
Autocross Newbie
The ticking is normal, it’s a valve of some sort but the name escapes me at the moment, it’s the black item in front of the intake manifold that ticks.
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Last edited:
Carlosfandang0
Autocross Newbie
DO NOT fit the earlier revision as they are shit!
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You MUST change the PCV when replacing the rear main as the PCV system is what would have caused the RMS to fail! Without replacement the rear main will leak again, is the new rear main the latest revision? If so it has a different fitting procedure than the earlier revision and WILL leak straight away if fitted like the earlier one due to the seal lip inverting upon fitting, here are a few pictures of the fitting instructions,
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You got a better picture of this? Or the link you got it from?
Carlosfandang0
Autocross Newbie
No sorry, but it will be in the latest update of ELSAWIN, you can view it online I believe for a small fee!
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Oh, well I'm not the one installing the RMS and the people are should know how to install it, but at this point why not do it myself lmao. I'll ask them when I see them again if the PCV system was replaced, I don't think it was because that ticking and the N80 purge valve symptoms. Thanks for the helpful information!
Carlosfandang0
Autocross Newbie
The ticking is nothing to do with the PCV and is normal! And I can guarantee they have fitted it incorrectly [emoji106]
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Actually, I went to the dealership like I said and asked them about the PCV system being an issue and they said they would have to fix the RMS first before troubleshooting the PCV, if I got the RMS job through them to ensure the proper revision and fitment, do you happen to know if they would replace the PCV system as well since that is the initial cause? It doesn't sound like it according to the service adviser I spoke too.
Carlosfandang0
Autocross Newbie
I don’t know what they will do but I do know the PCV will be the cause of the RMS failure and should be replaced at the same time or it will blow the seal again due to excess crank case pressure, I’ll post the latest revision part number once I’ve found the paperwork , they know that the PCV would have caused it and if not then WTF!!
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Carlosfandang0
Autocross Newbie
Latest PCV revision - 06H103495AH
Latest RMS revision - 06K103171G
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Latest RMS revision - 06K103171G
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thatspsychotic
Ready to race!
Dealers will do a lot to ask for another diagnostic fee. Just tell them to replace the PCV, and they'll write "customer states" and do it. Otherwise, just buy the PCV plate from the parts department and replace the PCV plate yourself, it's a 15 minute job with just a torx set and torque wrench.
Ticking noise is normal. Do NOT purchase a aftermarket RMS and give it to the dealer to the install. You will void all warranty and the dealership will tell you to pound sand if the RMS blows again. If the RMS keeps blowing there is obviously something more serious wrong.