What did you do to your MK6 2.5 today?

That pic makes me feel right at Home.


On to wat I did today,... . warning long rant!

Last weekend the Heater Fan started making a rubbing noise, I've removed, maintained (clean and lubing) that fan for a couple of years but you gotta know when to let go so i ordered a new fan I saw on sale, ..read the price was dirt cheap, too good to pass up.

Today the new fan arrived and I found out why I got such a good deal,... there are two fans and I ordered the wrong one. My car has the expensive Climatique or whatever the F**k it's called, where you can set the temp and the heater valve automatically regulates the coolant temp to control air temp but the fan stays at the speed you manually set it at, .... so why the f**k do we need two types of fans.

Basically the fans are the same they just change the fan housing a bit and change the connectors.... AND CHARGE YOU MORE $.

1) Use a screw driver to press and release each of the three rubber retainers to remove the fan housing from the old motor. Remove the connector that plugs into the back of the old fan housing (use a really small screw driver to undo the clips at the sides), we will be reusing this piece.

2) Trace the wires back from the connector to the motor, release the wires from any retainers you encounter and cut the wires as close to where its soldered to the old motor.

3) Cut the new connector and wires from the new motor and splice the connector and wires you cut from the old motor onto the new fan motor (important: red wire to orange wire).

4) Install the new fan and plug the connectors together, I use a small cable tie to make sure the connection is secure and don't pull apart.

The new fan motor now fits and operates perfectly.

Now Happy I save a bunch o money !!! :thumbup:


EDIT: Shoulda changed the cabin filter when I was in there but didn't have one handy, .... oh well on to the beers. :happyanim:

Rickybobbi said:

Ya infant wait to put my rims back on. Thinking about painting then gold/bronze.

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Will look great on your car but you gotta get the color right.

Nathan, I'm thinking of getting rid of my GTI suitcase muffler an just going center mounted dual tips like the R, what do you think? Not sure of how to do the valance tho, my car is not lowered like yours so it prolly won't look the part, it's just a project that popped into my mind after seeing a MK6 GTI in Daytona with Center Dual mufflers and two large defuser tunnels on both sides, looks functional but don't think it is, ....lowered it looks freeking wicked.

MLue1 said:

Will look great on your car but you gotta get the color right.

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Just bought my wife a really nice birthday gift so maybe no more money left for that anymore...oh well happy wife happy life right. hahaha

Rickybobbi said:

Just bought my wife a really nice birthday gift so maybe no more money left for that anymore...oh well happy wife happy life right. hahaha

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Maybe but mine is back home and I'm in SC and the two Noreasters coming will delay my return. :23:

Installed some blind spot mirrors today. We'll see if I can get used to them.

Added the led interior light kit. That's it for me. I have done all the mods I planned on doing and am pretty happy with the result. Decided against an intake manifold as the IE stage 1 and USP intake is plenty of fun. Catch can should keep the MAP sensor dry. SS clutch line sorted the terrible clutch feel. With the gti springs, sways and conti DW's installed this car is definitely a blast to drive. Plus after all the add-ons and free donor parts from the tdi I still got to pocket $3k after the buyback which almost covers the $4500 blown turbo on the tdi at 90k. Dieselgate was pretty good to me. Thanks VW. Or should I thank the EPA?

Well I'll probably upgrade the brakes when the time comes to do the pads. SS brake lines at least. That'll be the last mod.

Wascally Wabbit said:

.... Well I'll probably upgrade the brakes when the time comes to do the pads. SS brake lines at least. That'll be the last mod.

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WW, even with the upgrades winding down, keep posting you've been a great asset to our tiny 2.5 community.

On the Original brake lines... they are actually quite good, SS not required just fresh fluid. Upgrading to bigger rotors just increases the mass you have to rotate and slows the car. Day to day the stock stuff is fine. On track I gain alot under braking, its not just slowing down it is how far you can carry braking going in and how you come off the brakes in the transition zone.

Just saying

That was by no means a farewell post. The brakes have been last on the list as I have no issue with them other than they were spongy when I got the car in Nov. I replaced the fluid and they feel good now.

The IE intake manifold, valve cover and fuel rail are still on the table. I have mapped out the whole process and will only need a few extra parts so it should be pretty easy. I am going to go to a shop and see about cutting out a 3 or 4 inch section of the usp intake and rewelding. That's the only way it would fit. It just sucks because I will heve to put it back to stock for smog but that's not for another year and a half. That's really my only hangup.

Just emailed IE about upgrading to the Ultimate power kit and getting a credit for the stage 1 solftware I already purchased. Should be no problem. If so I know what I'm doing next weekend. Then I'll have a backup air intake to use while I figure out the USP intake mods. Might be a good opportunity to learn to weld.

Wascally Wabbit said:

Just emailed IE about upgrading to the Ultimate power kit and getting a credit for the stage 1 solftware I already purchased. Should be no problem. If so I know what I'm doing next weekend. Then I'll have a backup air intake to use while I figure out the USP intake mods. Might be a good opportunity to learn to weld.

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You don't need to know how weld!!!

Go to Harbor Freight and ask for Aluminum Brazing rods (Pack of 8 rods ~$15), buy a cylinder of MAP gas and a Propane Torch head.

All you have to do is make sure you saw the cylinder square to minimize gaps, sand the area to be welded to bare metal. Butt the parts togeather and clamp them so the don't move. Heat the parts (730 F) until when you touch the Aluminum Brazing Rod to it, the melted stuff will flow and fill the gaps.

I hope that helps.

EDIT: The IE Manifold is on sale foe $719 until the end of the month.

So to do the IE intake manifold right (the way it was designed and not jury rigged) you really need IE's intake manifold, fuel rail, valve cover (to get rid of the PCV), block breather adapter and a few other hoses and fittings for the catch can and block breather (or IE's CAI). I've got it all spec'd out and know exactly what I need. In the end I am lookin at $1500 bucks. Aside from the engine bay looking pretty damn cool and it being a fun project, is adding a manifold really that big a difference from stage 1 to justify the expense?

Wascally Wabbit said:

So to do the IE intake manifold right (the way it was designed and not jury rigged) you really need IE's intake manifold, fuel rail, valve cover (to get rid of the PCV), block breather adapter and a few other hoses and fittings for the catch can and block breather (or IE's CAI). I've got it all spec'd out and know exactly what I need. In the end I am lookin at $1500 bucks. Aside from the engine bay looking pretty damn cool and it being a fun project, is adding a manifold really that big a difference from stage 1 to justify the expense?

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.... it's a slippery slop when it comes to modding, isn't it?

Stage 2 is for people who want the high end power and don't mind reving the engine to get it, ... "you gotta pay to play" as they say.

IMO Stage 2 is not a magic bullet, from my experimentation with the SRI manifold it is somewhat of a trade off, the short runners will give you a loss of torque in the low to mid of the power band, which you may find annoying if you really like Stage 1. The IE Stage 2 Tune is the key it seem to make up the low to mid torque loss with the tuning and extends the fuel maps to support the higher revs, but the feel and daily driving would be different over all.

Everyone wants something different, .... you stated earlier on that you were happy with Stage 1, so i'd go with your gut.

I talked with IE today and they said stage 2 was manditory to use their intake manifold. I don't think that should be the case but I decides against it as it will not really benefit me for my situation.

Keep getting this code. I clear it and comes back couple days later. Car drives the same with the engine light on/off. Anyone get this before?

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Rickybobbi said:

Keep getting this code. I clear it and comes back couple days later. Car drives the same with the engine light on/off. Anyone get this before?

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

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Could be oil covering up the MAP sensor in the manifold if oil getting past the PCV valve.

Or something else (carbon) covering the MAP sensor.

Or the MAP sensor is done for.