Riceburner goes from MK7 to MK6 K04...

passed emmissions last week by flashing to stock +test pipe tune and running a vibrant 02 j spacer.

Got new plate stikar for 5 hp

Then did some maintenance:
Removed 02 spacer
Spark plugs (since I overfilled catch can twice figured a good measure)
replaced drive belt - found out old one was perfectly fine at 55000 miles but whatever i guess
cleaned engine/bay, washed her good due to decent weather

one or more of my hub bearings is going bad so likely going to be placing an order for those soon.

ordered new hubs for all 4 corners. also secured some more methanol parts

riceburner said:

ordered new hubs for all 4 corners. also secured some more methanol parts

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ouch. how much did that run you?

from ECS tuning, i found the F.A.G. set for the front at 238 for the pair with hardware, and some other brand for the rear set with hardware for 238 as well.

riceburner said:

from ECS tuning, i found the F.A.G. set for the front at 238 for the pair with hardware, and some other brand for the rear set with hardware for 238 as well.

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double ouch lol. Wobble bolts messed up all my hubs. Hoping stud conversion kit can fix these issues i'm having lol

Revamping my suspension bucket list… can anyone provide insight for or against, or any other parts for a better riding sporty street car?
Keep in mind what I already got:
VWR springs
Powerflex front caster kit
Rear trailing spherical bushings
Superpro adjustable front endlinks
Tyrolsport deadest front kit
All motor/trans/dogbone mount
Unibrace underbody
And now, new hubs/bearings.

front subframe bolts (already got) - when we did my rear subframe deadset kit we wound up stripping a control arm bolt which required re-dropping the subframe. huge bummer and pain in the rear an my frames been creaking ever since lol

VWR Ball joints $259 – replacing wheel bearings may as well replace ball joints. My front end wanders a lot, hope to stiffen up a little more with these
https://www.ecodetuning.com/vwr-roll-centre-adjusting-balljoint-golf-5-6.html

VWR Shocks/struts: 549 – no one seems to run these but compared to Bilstein options these have their tri-valve technology and are meant to be paired with the VWR springs so as of now, these are my fav option
https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Volk...-and-Struts/VWR-Sport-Shock-Absorber-Kit.html

034 strut mounts $110 – need to replace mine anyway and like to upgrade whenever I replace something
https://store.034motorsport.com/strut-mount-pair-track-density-mk5-mk6-volkswagen-8j-8p-audi.html

B6 Passat control arms (steel, not stamped) $260 - may just try to source these used somewhere, and swap on my powerflex rear LCA bearings and performance front bushings as well
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-tech-parts/aluminum-lower-control-arm-kit/3c0407151kt/
AND if i go this route, i'd plan to replace the front LCA bushings with these for 72
https://powerflexusa.com/volkswagengolfmodelsfrontwishboneinnerBushingfront-pff85-501-1.aspx

stud conversion 17 each x5 = ~100 – sick of taking wheels on and off with the retarded stud into bearing configuration. This will solve that
https://store.034motorsport.com/wheel-stud-and-nut-kit-m14x1-5-r13-ball-seat.html

Eurocode hatch brace $189 – really want to stiffen up the rear flex mainly for better ride quality. The design of this one I think will effectively eliminate flexing unlike single bar options out there. Are there any cheaper options for this though? Its three tubes welded together…
https://www.eurosportacc.com/products/euro-sport-rear-x-brace-vw-mk4-mk5-mk6

ECS rear adjustable sway bar endlinks: $100 - not positive that i need these but i am lowered and have superpros up front, thinking might just go ahead on these as well
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/adjustable-rear-sway-bar-end-links-pair/018319ecs01a/

Swaybar bushings from powerflex 50 – because why the F not
https://powerflexusa.com/volkswagentiguan5n2007frontantirollbarbushing-1-1.aspx
might just add VWR adjustable front sway bar; you see i'm also trying to elimintate highway speed shaking and other related symptoms many have spent thousands on trying to find and fix... good few now seem to say sway bar bushings... may as well stiffen up and i don't really like how much sway the front has to begin with. thoughts? better options out there?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-racingline-parts/vwr-front-sway-bar-26mm/vwr41g500~vwr/

* anyone have better options for anything?
* anything missing from this list i should be considering as well? like to do alot of this type of work at once to avoid re-taking everything apart later
* maybe do rear sway bar?

Do you have a rear sway bar? I'd recommend Hotchkis, they look to have beefy mounts that come with it. Can probably find it cheaper on different websites.

http://www.hotchkis.net/product/vw-mkv-mkvi-rear-sport-sway-bar-from-hotchkis-sport-suspension/

Also, I have the DG springs on stock struts without any issues. And the VWR front sway bar, which I like.

I hear the rear sway bar is more important for handling with our cars than the front. But if you have the subframe lowered in the front... mind as well throw the front sway bar in.

^Thanks, I appreciate the input!

I do agree, rear sway bars tend to be more important on FWD cars in general. Yes, I'm doing the front bar for now since re-doing just about all of the rest of the front suspension, reason being I have a rough ride, the car doesn't always feel like tracking straight, and i get the highway speed shakes. swaybar bushings have popped up in a few suggestions to remedy the shakes/straigtness so i made an exec as f*** decision to just to a full bar while I'm in there.

Rear bar may pop on the list, as I am already doing a rear strut brace i'm debating if it will be too hardcore or not.

Wound up getting superpro roll control adjustable ball joints. will be going in this weekend along with the front hubs. on my way to a better ride

riceburner said:

Wound up getting superpro roll control adjustable ball joints. will be going in this weekend along with the front hubs. on my way to a better ride

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You'll be happy with them, I have been running them for 6 months with no issues. Had my alignment checked 3 times in that period and it hasn't changed (despite some claims that they don't keep their adjustment overtime). It's a fantastic alternative to camber plates IMO.

I was running a 26mm front sway bar and actually just went back down to a 24mm. I am also running a 24mm rear. Most people run 26mm front 24mm rear, but I think for the most balanced handling car under most circumstances I recommend going 24/24. Everyone is a little bit different, though, so inevitably there might be some trial and error here.

I don't recommend ECS endlinks...I'd stick with superpro.

If you're doing the deadset collar for the front definitely get it for the rear as well. The rear takes maybe 30 minutes to do.

I would recommend superpro or H&R over VWR for sway bars. The VWR sway bars are crazy expensive and offer no real advantage. If you purchase a new sway bar it will come with new bushings. Front end shaking sounds like an alignment issue.

The VWR strut/springs are a great option. Good choice there.

Sounds like you got all of the boxes checked. One thing I didn't see mentioned is tires. The best suspension setup won't mean anything if your rubber sucks. I'd recommend a solid set of summers if you don't have that already.

I appreciate all the input!

I do have NT-555's all around which are great for grip. However I'm not too sure how well they have lasted a year of abuse. Lots of 2nd gear spinfests could be part of why they feel a little wobbly now.

So hard to choose what rubber to try next! Way too many choices and just about all of the data is subjective.

I may just add the rear deadset kit, if its that easy to install and only $100, why not haha.

Thx for the sway bar reccomendations. Will keep all that in mind.

Going into the meth zone...

I've been collecting a few parts so far:

* BSH throttle pipe
* SNOW upgraded solenoid (for just past the tank I believe)
* BSH Pump bracket
* SNOW pump, 300psi
* MAF-U controller

Still need:
* Tank, low level sensor, low level alert
* Line
* Nozzles (anyone have recommended starting points for a dual nozzle on a K04 setup?
* Throttle spacer plate
* 2 more solenoids, one prior to each nozzle

I am in the midst of planning a cell phone gauge pod. I will have a cell phone mounted somewhere at all times communicating through one of the car diag apps via a bluetooth obd2 pigtail. I think as far as tuning goes i need to watch AFR and dial it in, then get my 100 octane tune and re-dial it in?

riceburner said:

Going into the meth zone...

I've been collecting a few parts so far:

* BSH throttle pipe
* SNOW upgraded solenoid (for just past the tank I believe)
* BSH Pump bracket
* SNOW pump, 300psi
* MAF-U controller

Still need:
* Tank, low level sensor, low level alert
* Line
* Nozzles (anyone have recommended starting points for a dual nozzle on a K04 setup?
* Throttle spacer plate
* 2 more solenoids, one prior to each nozzle

I am in the midst of planning a cell phone gauge pod. I will have a cell phone mounted somewhere at all times communicating through one of the car diag apps via a bluetooth obd2 pigtail. I think as far as tuning goes i need to watch AFR and dial it in, then get my 100 octane tune and re-dial it in?

Click to expand...

I commented on the meth thread but I'll answer here as well haha.

I'm not sure the MAF controller is the best method to use for our cars but I cannot confirm why that is (I remember reading about it somewhere). Usually controlling by boost is better.

Purchase your tank here: https://www.usplastic.com/

Your line, nozzles and such can all be purchased from where ever you choose.

Maybe instead of a separate cell phone for keeping an eye on things look into the Polar FIS. Makes great use of the oem OBD screen. Its timing correction that you really want to keep an eye on not so much AFR.

Thanks man.

What tank did you get? Lot of options on there, I want something trunk mounted in the spare tire area (I don't carry a spare) with a siphon area, and holes already in it for tubing.

Ah really on the MAF? theres so much info & conflicting info out there. Most sources I found said for for MAF with these cars, NOT boost. lol. Only reasoning I have which may hold a candle is how our cars boost spike & taper off pretty hard.. in my case, ~25psi peak that tapers and holds ~20psi to redline. Granted, i'd just set it to full spray before 20psi.

Had my wheel bearings replaced and superpro ball joints installed by Jay and Carson last week or so. Fixed my riding noises and highway speed shakes!! So happy.

We revised the 'to do' suspension list together while I will release shortly.

Other than that, a few more fun updates approaching... stay tuned