GIAC Stage 1 Review!

[mugsy]

Originally Posted by smrtypants44

Call them on the phone. They helped me out with CEL problems on my stage 2.

I contacted GIAC and two different GIAC dealers yesterday. One dealer said he won't do VW because he "doesn't have the right tools" but he was helpful otherwise with my general questions and he then referred me to a bigger dealer and a specific rep at that dealer. The 2nd rep kinda blew me off at first crticizing the first dealer rep for blowing me off and told me to get back with the first dealer rep again. I told him again that the first rep said he won't do VW and he gave me the 2nd rep's name as who I should contact. I asked 2nd rep a couple of very basic questions regarding GIAC tune. I told him I was interested in Stage2 and that I had a CEL since I had recently put on Billy Boat catted downpipe. He said it would be wrong to do a GIAC tune until I fixed the downpipe CEL and to sort it out with Billy Boat.

Honestly none of that that was what I wanted to hear.... no other option or suggestions from the GIAC dealer(s).... just "fix the CEL first" and "contact Billy Boat"....

Doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling for a first impression. Meanwhile it took some doing initially but APR did respond and did answer my basic questions and was more than happy to accept me (and my GTI) as is.... Billy Boat downpipe, CEL and all.

I was all set to do APR Stage2 (during their extended sale period ) but as I was ready to order my brother insisted I consider GIAC first.

Maybe GIAC is good for a tune but at the rate of my initial contacts with them I guess I may never know firsthand.

[ZeroRt]

Yeah, I don' blame you one bit. I would just go with APR. Seems like they are more than willing to take your business versus the GIAC reps. I'm sure you will be happy with the APR tune - I've never heard anything bad about them.

The reason I chose GIAC was the dealer was close to me and they actually did respond to my questions.

[Retro]

Originally Posted by ZeroRt

Yeah, I don' blame you one bit. I would just go with APR. Seems like they are more than willing to take your business versus the GIAC reps. I'm sure you will be happy with the APR tune - I've never heard anything bad about them.

The reason I chose GIAC was the dealer was close to me and they actually did respond to my questions.

I see you got it! How do you like it? And shouldn't it have been a Stage II since you have a CAI and TBE?

[ZeroRt]

Originally Posted by Retro

I see you got it! How do you like it? And shouldn't it have been a Stage II since you have a CAI and TBE?

Not quite yet. Probably install by Monday.

I only have CBE, not TBE.

[Billy_Bob]

Originally Posted by mugsy

I contacted GIAC and two different GIAC dealers yesterday. One dealer said he won't do VW because he "doesn't have the right tools" but he was helpful otherwise with my general questions and he then referred me to a bigger dealer and a specific rep at that dealer. The 2nd rep kinda blew me off at first crticizing the first dealer rep for blowing me off and told me to get back with the first dealer rep again. I told him again that the first rep said he won't do VW and he gave me the 2nd rep's name as who I should contact. I asked 2nd rep a couple of very basic questions regarding GIAC tune. I told him I was interested in Stage2 and that I had a CEL since I had recently put on Billy Boat catted downpipe. He said it would be wrong to do a GIAC tune until I fixed the downpipe CEL and to sort it out with Billy Boat.

Honestly none of that that was what I wanted to hear.... no other option or suggestions from the GIAC dealer(s).... just "fix the CEL first" and "contact Billy Boat"....

Doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling for a first impression. Meanwhile it took some doing initially but APR did respond and did answer my basic questions and was more than happy to accept me (and my GTI) as is.... Billy Boat downpipe, CEL and all.

I was all set to do APR Stage2 (during their extended sale period ) but as I was ready to order my brother insisted I consider GIAC first.

Maybe GIAC is good for a tune but at the rate of my initial contacts with them I guess I may never know firsthand.

From what I understand, GIAC stage II doesn't deaden the rear O2 sensor. You;d still have the same problem after being tuned to GIAC stg II. BB catted DP will probably throw codes without a spacer, and chances are this is why you're throwing a code now. IDK if you put O2 spacers on your car, so that's all I can think of.

[ZeroRt]

OK. Installed this as soon as I got home from work today.

I fired the car up and it sounded horrible - almost a crunching sound for about 10 seconds. Then it all smoothed out, but all my warning lights were on for about two minutes. Put the car in reverse and all lights were off. Thank God!!

Took it for a three mile drive using D, S, and M. Power is very smooth. I wouldn't say I'm overly impressed, but I bet it probably has 25-30 more horses. Not too bad, but not at all like some of these others have experienced.

[mugsy]

Originally Posted by ZeroRt

Yeah, I don' blame you one bit. I would just go with APR. Seems like they are more than willing to take your business versus the GIAC reps. I'm sure you will be happy with the APR tune - I've never heard anything bad about them.

The reason I chose GIAC was the dealer was close to me and they actually did respond to my questions.

Yeah I might end up with APR stage2 .... maybe wait till next sale.... or something.

Originally Posted by Billy_Bob

From what I understand, GIAC stage II doesn't deaden the rear O2 sensor. You;d still have the same problem after being tuned to GIAC stg II. BB catted DP will probably throw codes without a spacer, and chances are this is why you're throwing a code now. IDK if you put O2 spacers on your car, so that's all I can think of.

It sounded like that to me about the GIAC stage2 not overriding the O2 related CEL which actually may be what I want (letting the CEL stay on) so that I can pass NJ inspection with the associated OBD readiness requirements whether using an O2 spacer rig to eliminate CEL or to reinstall original downpipe if/when necessary. I have not tried spacers yet but would hope to have a good idea what to do with that in attempting to get my cbfa to be cooperative with downpipe CEL, readiness and inspection.

Of course I could take the downpipe off put stock pipe back on and go stage1 but I might just keep it stock if I am forced to jam a cork back up its butt.... could move to a friendlier state, that could also solve multiple state-related hassles, taxes and expenses.

I did some basic vcds checks and logging to get an idea as to what is what with the CEL and dp related faults etc, ran it past Billy Boat and one of their tuners.... he told me the error I'm getting is due to the high flow cat and that I should get APR stage2 to resolve that error. I don't think that will solve the NJ inspection requirements though.

[Retro]

Originally Posted by ZeroRt

OK. Installed this as soon as I got home from work today.

I fired the car up and it sounded horrible - almost a crunching sound for about 10 seconds. Then it all smoothed out, but all my warning lights were on for about two minutes. Put the car in reverse and all lights were off. Thank God!!

Took it for a three mile drive using D, S, and M. Power is very smooth. I wouldn't say I'm overly impressed, but I bet it probably has 25-30 more horses. Not too bad, but not at all like some of these others have experienced.

Wonder if you're throwing any codes.

Has your butt dyno felt a 35-50 hp increase in a different situation?

[ZeroRt]

What do u mean by different situation. If you mean any of my other mods - no.

This is the only mod where the car is legitably faster than stock.

As long as there is no CEL, I could care less about codes. Car is running great today.

[Billy_Bob]

Originally Posted by mugsy

I did some basic vcds checks and logging to get an idea as to what is what with the CEL and dp related faults etc, ran it past Billy Boat and one of their tuners.... he told me the error I'm getting is due to the high flow cat and that I should get APR stage2 to resolve that error. I don't think that will solve the NJ inspection requirements though.

It may not, solely because all it does is force the rear O2 sensor to be ready. I'm unsure if this will allow NJ residents to actually pass inspection, though. Needless to say I never had the chance to try with my MKV when it was Stage 2+.
I've been talking to Danek over at Eurotech motorsports in Mahwah about this. The only solution is to get a spacer for the O2 sensor, and even then that's not a guarantee the CEL won't reappear at some point.
GIAC and the AWE downpipe (despite it being super expensive) will pass, from what I gather, since the cat in the DP is one of th ebest on the market, and it has the spacers come with it.

[Retro]

Originally Posted by ZeroRt

What do u mean by different situation. If you mean any of my other mods - no.

This is the only mod where the car is legitably faster than stock.

As long as there is no CEL, I could care less about codes. Car is running great today.

Just wondering since you said it feels only like a 25-30 hp gain, unless you were talking wheel horsepower? According to AWE/GIAC's dynoplots you should be getting at least 35-45 whp.

[ZeroRt]

Well with a 10 to 15 percent drive train loss those figures would make sense then.

[Retro]

Originally Posted by ZeroRt

Well with a 10 to 15 percent drive train loss those figures would make sense then.

Yeah.

BTW, your car still needs a couple of days to adapt, it'll get a little bit more faster

[Blaze1]

Why do you have to get a neuspeed intake just because you live in cali?

[Retro]

Originally Posted by Blaze1

Why do you have to get a neuspeed intake just because you live in cali?

1) Cheap.
2) Carb legal (police won't fux with me).

[Retro]

Hey guys, got the time to actually record some footage of the GIAC DTM and Wireless App in action (be warned, it's taken with my 8MP phone lol). I'll create it's own thread in the future.

I'm downloading some movie maker software so it'll at least look a little decent so it may take some time.

But it's sick!

[martymcflytw]

600$ USD is a good price for stage 1 + flashloader + valet considering the local GIAC dealer here in Taiwan wants 1,500$ for the same items (985$ tune + 500$ flash loader). An absolute mockery IMHO.

[Retro]

Originally Posted by martymcflytw

600$ USD is a good price for stage 1 + flashloader + valet considering the local GIAC dealer here in Taiwan wants 1,500$ for the same items (985$ tune + 500$ flash loader). An absolute mockery IMHO.

$500 for the switcher? Wtf? Did you go to E-51? If you went recently, it is because there's no sale going on.

I only got it for $600 because it was part of their tune in celebration for winning 1st place in two classes in a race in Taiwan.

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showth...455#post603455

[martymcflytw]

Originally Posted by Retro

$500 for the switcher? Wtf? Did you go to E-51? If you went recently, it is because there's no sale going on.

I only got it for $600 because it was part of their tune in celebration for winning 1st place in two classes in a race in Taiwan.

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showth...455#post603455

Yes I sure did. E-51 is just around the corner from me. Their prices for parts are good with a slight premium over US prices, but that's acceptable considering import taxes and shipping. But software flashes don't require parts other than a computer and a bit of labor. The guys at E-51 wouldn't budge on price. Im not a cheapskate, but in principle I just can't do it.

[Retro]

Originally Posted by martymcflytw

Yes I sure did. E-51 is just around the corner from me. Their prices for parts are good with a slight premium over US prices, but that's acceptable considering import taxes and shipping. But software flashes don't require parts other than a computer and a bit of labor. The guys at E-51 wouldn't budge on price. Im not a cheapskate, but in principle I just can't do it.

Wait for the sale, maybe within 2 months for Waterfest