master water/meth discussion thread

GIACUser said:

Been following, interesting. Where is the pump getting its power? Should be from the AEM controller, Pink I believe, Orange is ground. I only ask because you indicate pump starts when you key on.

Click to expand...

Yes, pump is hooked up through the AEM controller. Pink is pump positive and I forget which is negative off the top of my head. When I key ON, and arm my meth system the pump hums.

Edit: It has always hummed like this too, yet seemed to work fine last year and such.

Also, I realized I had my safeinjection LED tapped into the wrong wire so I corrected that. Checked all the connections from the wastegate and N75 and even tried a new spot for a ground for the wastegate solenoid and still nothing. As soon as I flip the arm switch the fault LED is lit. I got pissed and yanked the wiring harness out of the back of the safeinjection module and it went off. Going to try things tomorrow with the system unplugged to see if I can spray.

EDIT: Meth system worked fine this morning with the SafeInjection unit unplugged.

I'm putting together a Snow W/M setup on a 2007 MKV and had some questions. (I know this is an MK6 thread, but this seems to be the most active VW water/meth thread and it should be pretty much the same)

1. I'd like to use the windshield wiper reservoir...any tips on how to/ where to tap the tank? I have deleted my headlight washers...any chance I can use the hole from that (I know that's an MKV specific question).

2. I'm planning a Dual Nozzle setup with 1 after the intercooler (BSH pipe?) and 1 post throttle body (Torque Solutions throttle plate purchased on eBay for $50 with best offer feature incase anyone is looking to get one on the cheap cheap). Should I just tap the outlet hose? Is the BSH pipe worth it? I'm planning on using the solenoid...Snow says this can go between the tank and pump or the pump and nozzles...is this just an "install it where convenient" or are there +/- I'm missing?

3. I believe a 175 or 225 post intercooler and a 100 post TB will be my starting setup. Am I in the ballpark? Am I going to want to have any other nozzles handy while getting this setup? (PS...MKV with APR stage 2+)

4. Planning on using MAF signal...are people soldering this connection or using wire taps? Anyone using a time delay relay?

5. Is everyone using a 50/50 mix or are there straight windshield fluid users out there? I would like to be able to run the APR 100 Octane file (yes I have vagcom and will be able to log...just trying to make my expectations reasonable)

I've read through a good portion of this monster thread, and I don't think any of these questions have been beaten to death. Any help would be appreciated.

I'm putting together a Snow W/M setup on a 2007 MKV and had some questions. (I know this is an MK6 thread, but this seems to be the most active VW water/meth thread and it should be pretty much the same)

I have 2008 MKV K04 with 100oct tune and Snow system MAF based. I have been running this system for 3 years, recently refreshed it. And replaced the windshield reservoir as my tap was leaking, the new reservoir has .5L higher capacity.

1. I'd like to use the windshield wiper reservoir...any tips on how to/ where to tap the tank? I have deleted my headlight washers...any chance I can use the hole from that (I know that's an MKV specific question).

No, on the headlight washer pump hole. Best place to tap, see pic.
I used Devils Own tap second time around. Also extensive use of right angle connectors to avoid bends in tubing which diminishes leaks.





2. I'm planning a Dual Nozzle setup with 1 after the intercooler (BSH pipe?) and 1 post throttle body (Torque Solutions throttle plate purchased on eBay for $50 with best offer feature incase anyone is looking to get one on the cheap cheap). Should I just tap the outlet hose? Is the BSH pipe worth it? I'm planning on using the solenoid...Snow says this can go between the tank and pump or the pump and nozzles...is this just an "install it where convenient" or are there +/- I'm missing?

That is my setup. One nozzle in silicon hose after intercooler and one in TB plate. Unless you have a pipe with a bung don't try and tap a thin walled metal pipe (won't hold well -opinion). I put a bung in silicon pipe coming off of intercooler. Putting a solenoid between tank and pump will prevent from draining out your reservoir when there is a leaking connection below fluid level (gravity feed). I ran one but upon redoing my system, I decided to run without it. Also recommend that you use Snow nozzle holders with built-in checkvalves for each nozzle or a solenoid at each nozzle. I like the checkvalves because fewer cuts/connections in line and no wiring.



3. I believe a 175 or 225 post intercooler and a 100 post TB will be my starting setup. Am I in the ballpark? Am I going to want to have any other nozzles handy while getting this setup? (PS...MKV with APR stage 2+)

Only logging will tell. You start with less W/M than you need and with logging you start adding to achieve 0 timing pull. It is a delicate process in that you don't want to add more than that as you will have 0 pull but reduced power if you add too much. Also I assume you are doing this so you can run the 100oct file.


4. Planning on using MAF signal...are people soldering this connection or using wire taps? Anyone using a time delay relay?

I have been using a wire tap, definately no solder.

5. Is everyone using a 50/50 mix or are there straight windshield fluid users out there? I would like to be able to run the APR 100 Octane file (yes I have vagcom and will be able to log...just trying to make my expectations reasonable)

The general recommendation is that you run a mix of 50% pure methanol mixed with 50% distilled water (must be distilled). This makes the mix much safer to handle and is the most common way folks use it. Having said that there are folks running straight methanol and everything in between and it is a way to further adjust things. It is toxic to touch or breath and is highly flammable (methanol).

I'm putting together a Snow W/M setup on a 2007 MKV and had some questions. (I know this is an MK6 thread, but this seems to be the most active VW water/meth thread and it should be pretty much the same)

I have 2008 MKV K04 with 100oct tune and Snow system MAF based. I have been running this system for 3 years, recently refreshed it. And replaced the windshield reservoir as my tap was leaking, the new reservoir has .5L higher capacity.

1. I'd like to use the windshield wiper reservoir...any tips on how to/ where to tap the tank? I have deleted my headlight washers...any chance I can use the hole from that (I know that's an MKV specific question).

No, on the headlight washer pump hole. Best place to tap, see pic.
I used Devils Own tap second time around.





2. I'm planning a Dual Nozzle setup with 1 after the intercooler (BSH pipe?) and 1 post throttle body (Torque Solutions throttle plate purchased on eBay for $50 with best offer feature incase anyone is looking to get one on the cheap cheap). Should I just tap the outlet hose? Is the BSH pipe worth it? I'm planning on using the solenoid...Snow says this can go between the tank and pump or the pump and nozzles...is this just an "install it where convenient" or are there +/- I'm missing?

That is my setup. One nozzle in silicon hose after intercooler and one in TB plate. Unless you have a pipe with a bung don't try and tap a thin walled metal pipe (won't hold well -opinion). I put a bung in silicon pipe coming off of intercooler. Putting a solenoid between tank and pump will prevent from draining out your reservoir when there is a leaking connection below fluid level (gravity feed). I ran one but upon redoing my system, I decided to run without it. Also recommend that you use Snow nozzle holders with built-in checkvalves for each nozzle or a solenoid at each nozzle. I like the checkvalves because fewer cuts/connections in line and no wiring.



3. I believe a 175 or 225 post intercooler and a 100 post TB will be my starting setup. Am I in the ballpark? Am I going to want to have any other nozzles handy while getting this setup? (PS...MKV with APR stage 2+)

Only logging will tell. You start with less W/M than you need and with logging you start adding to achieve 0 timing pull. It is a delicate process in that you don't want to add more than that as you will have 0 pull but reduced power if you add too much. Also I assume you are doing this so you can run the 100oct file.


4. Planning on using MAF signal...are people soldering this connection or using wire taps? Anyone using a time delay relay?

I have been using a wire tap, definately no solder.

5. Is everyone using a 50/50 mix or are there straight windshield fluid users out there? I would like to be able to run the APR 100 Octane file (yes I have vagcom and will be able to log...just trying to make my expectations reasonable)

The general recommendation is that you run a mix of 50% pure methanol mixed with 50% distilled water (must be distilled). This makes the mix much safer to handle and is the most common way folks use it. Having said that there are folks running straight methanol and everything in between. It is toxic to touch or breath and is highly flammable (methanol)

Note: I used the 6000 as a sealant on nozzle threads, reservoir exit, bung in intercooler pipe. Works well to seal and still allows for easy dissassembly. This is the stuff that Snow kits come with in little packets.

Thanks for the help!
A couple follow ups...

So if I use the snow check valve holders I do not need a solenoid to prevent the intake manifold vacuum from pulling W/M?

How are you preventing the start up MAF signal from causing your system to spray? Turning it on with a switch?

Thanks again for the quick help!

Hey guys. So have been running my DO stage 2 kit totally wrong themail last year I had it and am hoping to get this sorted out with some help from you guys. Have a MK6 R with all the Stage2+ mods

I've been running dual nozzle in my CTS pipe, one with a D07 at bottom and a D01 up top. As far as I can conclude the CTS pipe is different from the BSH in that it has the 2 bangs closers to each other than the BSH. Meaning it's no good for octane enhancement but at least further away from the TB than the BSH.

I live in a hotter climate (average summers of between 28 and 37 degrees celsius) and we have access to 91 octane only (but this too it's a poor standard 91 and I would reckon more like 89). So I'm getting very good intake Temps but sadly no octane enhancement so I pull like -6 to -7 on initial boost and then around -4 throughout the Rev range and this is on the 91Map. Bought some race gas and mixed it in and it eliminates timing pull so I know it's fuel and not hardware or software. But of coz I can't afford to buy the stuff everyday.

Also bear in mind that I'm doing mods myself as I'm 700miles away from my tuner and have to cross border to get to him.

I've managed to get my hands on a CTS TB spacer. I've read so much conflicting info of what nozzle to run in there . Scott from USRT will say 60 to 100cc max and others have used a 250cc injector. Also scotty talks about a pressure Guage to adjust the pressure of the pump but I have it set at default (200psi I think and have no access to this guage) . What do you guys think would be the best method to set me up. I have 63ml, 126ml, 189ml and 225ml nozzles available on me on hand. What do you guys think I should put in the TB spacer and on the lower bung of the CTS? Will running pump at 200psi be okay? Also I only have the DO check valves...Do I need to use solenoids for the TB or will it be fine?

I'm only trying to reduce timing pull to zero on my 91 map (actually want to be able to use my 93 map with this setup)..and maybe add a little octane to my 100Octane Map but I will be using proper octane booster for that with the method just being an extra source of octane.

PS. Would I be wrong in assuming I can't get octane from the throttle pipe bungs alone? Most of the local tuners seem to think that I can

Still trying to get the 528T relay to work...I'll post it up when I do.

Build plan feedback

Hey guys,

First I want to thank you all for the awesome info you guys provide, have helped on so many projects.

So I've had enough of the heat soak... 90+ degree temps this summer have been the last straw.

So I picked up a S3 intercooler for a good deal on the forms. I figured that while I have the front of my car apart it would be worth doing some more mods as well, here's what I have planned:

• CTS performance throttle pipe
• DO DVC-30 stage 2 meth kit w/DO3 size nozzle
• AWE tuning TSI turbo outlet pipe with meth bung

I do have a APR tune on this car with 91,93,100 Octane maps, not sure if its stage 1 or 2 it came with the car when I bought it.

Currently have stock tune on due to clutch slipping, pending new clutch install.

Questions:
1. Anyone with the AWE TOP, are you able to install/remove the meth nozzle without removing the whole front end?
(It would be easier on the wallet to install the water meth kit later, I plan on installing the pump and reservoir in the space where the stock air box was since I have a APR CAI.)
2.At this time I plan on using water/meth to get the most performance out of the Stock and eventually the 93 octane tune (I plan on having this car for a long time) is the D03 nozzle size good for TOP install?
3. if I do decide to add another nozzle latter in a throttle body spacer would I want to add a D02 size nozzle?

Car: 2012 MK6 CBFA

Thanks!

I personally think those S3 intercoolers are a waste of time and money but WMI will help more than that IC

interweb42 said:

Questions:
1. Anyone with the AWE TOP, are you able to install/remove the meth nozzle without removing the whole front end?

Actually its the throttle body pipe that you want to tap, not the TOP. And yes you can access the bottom meth bung of the pipe without removing the whole front end.

(It would be easier on the wallet to install the water meth kit later, I plan on installing the pump and reservoir in the space where the stock air box was since I have a APR CAI.)

Ideally it is best to have the pump and tank mounted in the trunk away from heat and moisture and such.

2.At this time I plan on using water/meth to get the most performance out of the Stock and eventually the 93 octane tune (I plan on having this car for a long time) is the D03 nozzle size good for TOP install?

It will depend on your pump pressure, trigger setting and nozzle placement, but a D03 isn't too bad of a size for the 93 oct tune. You want it to completely atomize by the time it hits the intake manifold.

3. if I do decide to add another nozzle latter in a throttle body spacer would I want to add a D02 size nozzle? I would start small, probably a D01. At least this is what I'm running in my direct port runners.

Car: 2012 MK6 CBFA

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Replied in red.

Hopefully this is an easy question-

Has anyone placed a nozzle pre-intercooler?

I see many people are placing a nozzle post intercooler but pre throttle body, and from what I'm reading there would be additional cooling benefits with a small nozzle added pre intercooler.

ArcsandSparks said:

Hopefully this is an easy question-

Has anyone placed a nozzle pre-intercooler?

I see many people are placing a nozzle post intercooler but pre throttle body, and from what I'm reading there would be additional cooling benefits with a small nozzle added pre intercooler.

Click to expand...

I have heard of a person or two on here trying a nozzle pre-turbo in the intake track but not pre-intercooler.

Alcohol/water has corrosive properties and isn't really recommended to be ran pre-intercooler. Also once that intercooler became a heatsoak you would just be reheating air that you just cooled down so I think it would be a wasted effort.

An intercooler sprayer would help to bring down the physical temp of the intercooler, which would produce a cooler charge coming out. Add onto that some meth and you'll get even more cooling benefits.

GoodTimesIndeed said:

I have heard of a person or two on here trying a nozzle pre-turbo in the intake track but not pre-intercooler.

Alcohol/water has corrosive properties and isn't really recommended to be ran pre-intercooler. Also once that intercooler became a heatsoak you would just be reheating air that you just cooled down so I think it would be a wasted effort.

An intercooler sprayer would help to bring down the physical temp of the intercooler, which would produce a cooler charge coming out. Add onto that some meth and you'll get even more cooling benefits.

Click to expand...

Thank you.

Sounds like a post intercooler (close to the outlet) and a post TB nozzle are the way to go (besides DPI).

i have pre and post IC and DPI, never had an issue with my preIC jet