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DIY: upgrade 2011+ manual HVAC to Climatic

PVKAN

New member
I edited the testing directions to add some interesting information I discovered today: the “64” and “LO” and the “80” and “HI” markings on the temperature scale are actually distinct settings. Compared with older Climatic systems (like the MKV) this is kind of a big deal.

When set to LO, the system disregards the temperature sensors and sets the hot/cold flap to 100% cold, regardless of actual interior temperature. Turn the knob up one click to 64, and auto temp regulation resumes.

When set to HI, the system disregards the temperature sensors and sets the hot/cold flap to 100% hot, regardless of actual interior temperature. Turn the knob down one click to 80, and auto temp regulation resumes. (This was interesting to observe today when it was 105 outside and the interior was still in the process of cooling down after work. Every time I clicked the knob back and forth between 80 and HI, the temperature of the air coming from the vents instantly went up or down by what must have been at least 50 degrees.)

This is going to be especially awesome for winter. The Climatic in my MKV didn’t have the extra “LO” and “HI” settings; it only had 64, 72, and 80. This may explain why the defroster in that car did such a crappy job of keeping the windshield clear in winter: I think the system started cutting back the heat when the interior reached 80 degrees, therefore not allowing the defroster to produce enough heat to keep the windshield clear in heavy snow when the temperature dropped into the teens. The addition of this “HI” setting on the MKVI Climatic should allow the defroster to run in full blown, unregulated forehead-melt mode and keep the wipers from packing up with snow and ice.
 

eduardot

Ready to race!
Can you post the wiring diagram you used to determine the pins on the 16-pin and 20-pin connectors?

I'm trying to learn as much as possible before my parts get here.
 

Skirball

Ready to race!
Can you post the wiring diagram you used to determine the pins on the 16-pin and 20-pin connectors?

I'm trying to learn as much as possible before my parts get here.

+1 I was curious to see this as well.

Where did the wiring diagrams come from? I was searching around for a service manual but it seems nobody has made one for mk6? ...which seems odd in and of itself.
 

eduardot

Ready to race!
+1 I was curious to see this as well.

Where did the wiring diagrams come from? I was searching around for a service manual but it seems nobody has made one for mk6? ...which seems odd in and of itself.

I found this:
http://elsaweb.spaghetticoder.org/nav/EN/VW/Golf/5K/1/2736/373/87/10060262/

It has a few diagrams, however, I don't understand the pin assignments.
For the 20-pin connector it only lists 11
For the 16-pin connector it only lists 12

I still believe the OP since he has it working. Furthermore, that elsaweb reference doesn't seem to be complete (or I don't know how to read it.)

Credit where it belongs:
Found the link to elsaweb from this post http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40587
 

PVKAN

New member
+1 I was curious to see this as well.

Where did the wiring diagrams come from? I was searching around for a service manual but it seems nobody has made one for mk6? ...which seems odd in and of itself.

I had bought a 24-hr pass to erWin to get the wiring diagram. I saved the info on my laptop at home and I can post the info after work tonight. I looked at that Elsaweb info and the pinouts seem to be almost totally different from what the erWin documentation had...weird.
 

TurtleJames

Go Kart Champion
Great write up. Thanks! I will try this with the older panel (3C8-907-336N) and let you know how it turns out. Couldn't find any newer ones in a price I was willing to pay.
 

Smoky_Llama1

Passed Driver's Ed
Very cool diy! While I don't really care for the semi auto system, how easy do you think it is to swap just the more metallic knobs from an older car to a newer one?
 

PVKAN

New member
Can you post the wiring diagram you used to determine the pins on the 16-pin and 20-pin connectors?

I'm trying to learn as much as possible before my parts get here.



(A) 5-pin Harness Connector, in Wiring Diagram T5
1 - 3rd Blower Speed
2 - 2nd Blower Speed
3 - 1st Blower Speed
4 - 4th Blower Speed
5 - Terminal X

(B) 16-pin Harness Connector, in Wiring Diagram T16e
1 - Temperature regulator door motor -V68- warm
2 - Evaporator temperature sensor -G308- or Evaporator vent temperature sensor -G263-
3 - Air distribution door motor position sensor -G645-
4 - Footwell outlet temperature sensor -G192-
5 - Temperature regulator door motor position sensor -G92-
7 - +5 V for Temperature regulator door motor position sensor -G92-
8 - Ground for the Front air distribution door motor position sensor
-G92-, the Footwell vent temperature sensor -G192-, the air distribution
door motor position sensor -G645-, and the evaporator
temperature sensor -G308- or evaporator vent temperature sensor -G263-
9 - Recirculation door motor -V113- open
10 - Recirculation door motor -V113- close
11 - Temperature regulator door motor -V68- cold
12 - Air distribution door motor -V428- open
13 - Air distribution door motor -V428- closed

(C) 20-pin Harness Connector, in Wiring Diagram T20c
3 - Dash Outlet Temperature Sensor -G191-
5 - High Pressure Sensor -G65-
7 - CAN Low
8 - CAN High
12 - Right seat heater (optional)
13 - Seat heating (option)
15 - Terminal 75 seat heater (optional)
16 - A/C Compressor Regulator Valve -N280-
18 – Dash outlet temperature sensor -G191- ground
19 - Terminal 30A
20 - Terminal 31
 

eduardot

Ready to race!
Thanks for the wiring details. It is reassuring to see that information.

Update on my orders:
- 1stVwParts shipped the sensors, housings, and wires today
- Climatic controls should get here on Wednesday

Looking forward to having this installed by next weekend.
 

JS12

Ready to race!
I received my climate control from eBay but am still waiting on the parts from 1stVwParts.

The control unit I got also has some minor scratches on the glossy black plastic that I'd like to swap with my existing one. To remove, did you pry from an edge with a small flat object or is there some other method? I have some small screwdrivers that I could try but I'm hesitant since everything on the unit is plastic.

Thanks.
 

Skirball

Ready to race!
I received my climate control from eBay but am still waiting on the parts from 1stVwParts.

+1

Mine was actually in pretty good shape (much better shape than the 2010 Jetta it came out of). It has a bit of grime on the face plate but I think with a little Goo Gone I might not even need to swap it. Need to go grab some Goo Gone so I can debadge anyway...
 

PVKAN

New member
The control unit I got also has some minor scratches on the glossy black plastic that I'd like to swap with my existing one. To remove, did you pry from an edge with a small flat object or is there some other method? I have some small screwdrivers that I could try but I'm hesitant since everything on the unit is plastic.
Thanks.

The faceplate is attached to the control panel with 8 molded-in clips (see photo below). I used a sewing needle to pry up the upper right corner and release the first clip. After that, I was able to release the remaining clips by gently squeezing and prying the edge of the faceplate with my fingertips.

 

JS12

Ready to race!
Thanks for the pic of the plastic cover. I'm actually going through the install now and was wondering how I tell which pin is pin 1 vs pin 2 on the temp sensors? I didn't see any markings distinguishing them.

Thanks!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
 
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PVKAN

New member
Thanks for the pic of the plastic cover. I'm actually going through the install now and was wondering how I tell which pin is pin 1 vs pin 2 on the temp sensors? I didn't see any markings distinguishing them.

Thanks!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

The wire housing (1J0 971 972) is marked "1" and "2" in the area where the wires enter the housing. It's microscopic, but you'll eventually see it.
 

JS12

Ready to race!
The wire housing (1J0 971 972) is marked "1" and "2" in the area where the wires enter the housing. It's microscopic, but you'll eventually see it.

Thanks for the follow-up. I'm at work now and am hoping to complete this tonight, so I can't check until later.

Do you know if it is easy to remove the wires if I already put them in the housing? Or do I not need to remove them to see the numbers?
 
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