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Oil leaks on both sides of the block...

Vengeance

Vengeance

Passed Driver's Ed
So I recently pulled the panels off of the passenger wheelwell to get a look at the Timing Chain Tensioner and I found a large amount of oil. So after I looked around a bit and took some pictures, I decided to look around to see if I could see any oil anywhere else. It looked like there was some oil coming out of one of the turbo bolt holes, and where the Transmission meets the Block

I have had some people suggest it is the cam holder gasket and the upper and lower timing chain cover gasket and the rear main seal and that I have a blown turbo (No smoke that I can see though).

Do these things that they have suggested make sense or am I looking at something else?
Pictures:















 
Vengeance

Vengeance

Passed Driver's Ed
beauy46 said:
how many miles on your car? Check this thread for the upper timing chain gasket
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85417

This oil leak can lead to waterpump failure. The hot oil drips on the plastic water pump housing causing it to deform and spring a leak.
Click to expand...

Had the water pump replaced 6 Months ago under warrentey when I bought the car. I didn't realize how bad it was because the dealership I bought the car from, cleaned the oil off of the block before they sold it and after they replaced the water pump...:cry:
 
V

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
The upper cam girdle/valve cover seal is not a gasket, just sealant (green). But I'd assume that's where the oil is coming from on top.

The oil on the lower timing cover looks to be coming from behind the crank pulley, which would mean the crank pulley seal in the timing cover is bad. Since you have a 2010, I'd just buy the cover and a new tensioner and kill two birds with one stone.

Most tensioner update kits also include the upper timing cover (plastic piece) gasket, which looks to be leaking as well.

If the rear main seal is leaking you'll see it coming out of the weep hole in the bottom of the trans where it meets the engine block. You didn't include pictures of this, so I don't know if that's where it's coming from or not.

Finally, I'd check the PCV. All of these leaks would have me curious as to if the PCV went bad and overpressurized the crank case, ruining all of these seals.
 
Vengeance

Vengeance

Passed Driver's Ed
*****2.0t said:
The upper cam girdle/valve cover seal is not a gasket, just sealant (green). But I'd assume that's where the oil is coming from on top.

The oil on the lower timing cover looks to be coming from behind the crank pulley, which would mean the crank pulley seal in the timing cover is bad. Since you have a 2010, I'd just buy the cover and a new tensioner and kill two birds with one stone.

Most tensioner update kits also include the upper timing cover (plastic piece) gasket, which looks to be leaking as well.

If the rear main seal is leaking you'll see it coming out of the weep hole in the bottom of the trans where it meets the engine block. You didn't include pictures of this, so I don't know if that's where it's coming from or not.

Finally, I'd check the PCV. All of these leaks would have me curious as to if the PCV went bad and overpressurized the crank case, ruining all of these seals.
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Thank you for all of this info. I have a lot of things to work on I see. I ordered the Timing Chain Replacement Kit this morning so I am starting there.
 
S

simpson110

Ready to race!
I would check the pcv before you get too involved replacing gaskets. If it's had and the crankcase is over pressurized you will be throwing money away when you blow all the new gaskets you put in.
 
Vengeance

Vengeance

Passed Driver's Ed
simpson110 said:
I would check the pcv before you get too involved replacing gaskets. If it's had and the crankcase is over pressurized you will be throwing money away when you blow all the new gaskets you put in.
Click to expand...

I will have to look, Is there a rebuild for this if it has failed, or do I have to replace it outright?
 
Vengeance

Vengeance

Passed Driver's Ed
simpson110 said:
I would check the pcv before you get too involved replacing gaskets. If it's had and the crankcase is over pressurized you will be throwing money away when you blow all the new gaskets you put in.
Click to expand...

It looks as though this has been replaced at some point. This is a 10 Car, and it has revision E instead of just A with no letters after it.

After some research, it appears as though the latest revision is AH
 
Cadubya

Cadubya

Autocross Newbie
Vengeance said:
It looks as though this has been replaced at some point. This is a 10 Car, and it has revision E instead of just A with no letters after it.



After some research, it appears as though the latest revision is AH
Click to expand...



Pcv's go bad at irregular intervals. Could be a month, could be years. They are crap and poorly made. I'd replace the pcv and brake clean the F out of the entire engine and get it clean. Then reassess.
 
R

R.eddy

New member
Hey Everyone. I hate to awaken a possile dead forum thread. I had the same issue here. I have a '12 GLI with an oil leak going across both sides of the block in front of the coil packs and behind, from passenger side to drive side. I did replace the camshaft position sensor since it looked like it was maybe leaking there but that's just where the oil hit it, then ran down underneath it. I thought possibly the PCV, got the latest revision. It wasn't that either but it did solve a sputtering issue I had when in lower gears especially in first gear. Oil was still leaking, it would "puddle" near the top front side of the timing chain cover (see #2 and #3 pictures in the beginning of the thread) all over the bottom and my serpentine belt, pullies and stuff. I found it was the upper timing chain cover gasket. Each side right where the top of the block comes together had a dried crusty substance where the gasket goes, causing the oil to leak right by it. I cleaned the surface where the timing chain cover gasket goes, replaced the gasket and haven't had a leak since. It was pretty easy to do, a couple bolts where a little tough to get at but overall easy, took my time and was done in about 30-40 minutes.

Just thought I'd through this out there for anyone else searching for a fix.

Thanks!
 
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