Different position on TSI. It's between cylinder 3 and 4 around the same height as the pic above.
Once the the turbo was off, I was able to get the plug out. I could see what it may have been taken out at some point in the past and was already a bit rounded off which prevent the hex from fully seating. Was able to hammer in a hex and was fine. Hard to check when everything is in the way.
^^ for those and the bolt holding the banjo on the fluid line to the turbo it's best to use a triple square set with some kind of hex pattern on the bit just before the socket end. What I did was to put the M(something) into the bolt, then used a 10mm crescent wrench to torque the M(something) bit.
^^ for those and the bolt holding the banjo on the fluid line to the turbo it's best to use a triple square set with some kind of hex pattern on the bit just before the socket end. What I did was to put the M(something) into the bolt, then used a 10mm crescent wrench to torque the M(something) bit.
so that should definitely work. What other tricks you got for this install!?
Ordered my long reach ball head hex socket set for the 6mm...
Just from reading everything I feel like when the heat shield comes off it should just rain beer from all cylinders in celebration.
EDIT. Holy crap...I see you're in SW Michigan. Where at? I'm 20 minutes from the boarder.
Additional Recommended Hardware:
Exhaust Manifold Studs (there are 5, but you don't need to replace them unless they break) - N0444115
6mm Allen Screws on Turbo Support (1x) - (not sure of PN)
6mm* (skinny) Allen Screws on Turbo Heat Shield (2x) - M8 X 1.25 (not sure of PN)
6mm* (fat) Allen Screw on Turbo Heat Shield (1x) - (not sure of PN)
Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but I wanted to add a little info to the thread about some part numbers that will make the parts list a little more complete. Maybe the OP will add it to the original thread so future users don't suffer set backs like myself and like plenty of others in the past have as well I'm sure...
In regards to tools I don't have anything special to add other than to reiterate as stated before and make sure you follow this thread word for word. Without long ball hex sockets/allen wrenches as well as this tool kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SX10AG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1):happyanim:) that has a combination of long and short hex, torx and triple square this job wouldn't be pleasant by any stretch! Also instead of PBlaster I was recommended that I use this other stuff called AeroKroil. Its a little pricey but it works far better and I've been using PBlaster for 2 decades! But anyways lets get to the good stuff...
Exhaust manifold studs (attaches exhaust manifold to block) - M8 X 44 - N0145555
(1)Turbo support bracket (upper 6 mm hex bolt) - N91103701
Heat shield (has 2 different bolts, but 3 bolts need to be removed in total):
(1) 6 mm hex plug - N0160255
(2) 6 mm hex bolt - N01627801
Just wanted to chime in here. I could not get the axle bolt off soooooo had to take the turbo out the top. Took 13 hours over the weekend. Got it done about 5k miles ago and runs like a champ. So, dont know if anyone has done this but its possible.
Yup took me about 12 hours due to a seized and almost stripped heat shield bolt as well as a seized bolt on the turbo support bracket....aero kroil and torch saved the day!
Looking for some help here in regards to the thick washer that goes on the banjo bolt for the coolant return line. As I understand that washer is necessary to be thicker because it provides clearance between the banjo fitting and the block-off plug on the turbo. The washer is listed in the OP as "Coolant Return Line Washer (thick) N0138144." Unfortunately that part is now obsolete and I can't find any other M14 copper washer than is 2.5mm thick.
Anyone else able to source a comparable washer? Use 2 thin washers doubled up? My car is sitting in the garage with the turbo off as I try to figure this out because the CTS turbo kit didn't include replacement washers at all, much less the correct thickness.