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DIY: TSI Timing Chain Tensioner Update

Rizzo389

New member
I just had my tensioner replaced. Drives great & sounds great. Yesterday I went to start it and slipped off my keys. I went to start it again but it took longer to start. 5 minutes into driving, engine light comes on.... P2293 & P0016 codes. I cleared them and 10 minutes later back on.

So ever since I slipped in the middle of start up...it now takes a bit longer to start. Help please! Thanks

Frank
 

Grabbit

Go Kart Champion
Anyone have the part numbers or specs for the engine mount and bracket bolts? Are these TTY/stretch bolts?
 

Wrath

New member
If anyone has the specialty tools left after thier job id love to rake them off your hands

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 

coffeebreak1011

New member
Started doing this job yesterday on my 2009 GLI CBFA. Broke oil dipstick tube, waiting for replacement before I put engine mounts back in. Notes from yesterday:
1. I did buy the pulley holding tool, the VW factory sealant, lower timing cover, cam chain tensioner, and oil pump chain tensioner, and replacement bolts).
2. I did not use the sprocket hold-down tool. I went to home depot and used 5 washers sized for 3/4 bolt, with OD smaller than the hole in the lower timing cover.
3. If you push the engine forward, you can get to the rear engine mount bracket bolt through a hole in the front body rail structure
4. Be careful pulling the oil dipstick tube... it may be brittle and break off.
5. Depending on what year and application of TSI you may have to remove the aluminum turbo outlet that connects to the turbo-to-intercooler pipe... have to remove the connector mounted to that turbo outlet to get to the screws.
6. There is a small hole in the pulley that lines up with the indexing feature. when installing the pulley, you can line up the hole in the pulley to the indexing feature on the sprocket
 

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Wrath

New member
About to buy the parts for this, here is my cart at hcstuning so far:

Counterhold T10355A
Timing chain cover lower 06H109210AG
Timing chain tensioner upper 06K109467K
Hex bolt x15 for cover N91096702
Crank pully bolt WHT001760
Gasket silicone sealant D174003M2
Still searching for the pully bolt spacer tool (saw that some just bought 4 washers to use in its place, but how thick were they and what was their diameter?)

Do I need to buy sealant for the cover? Because I don't see the gasket
Should I put some kind of thread locker on the pully bolt?
Am I missing anything?
Think I have a 10mm triple square bit but might have to grind down.

Decided to go with the 06K-198-467-K kit from deutsch auto parts that has the cover, sealant, tensioner, and the little spacer tool. Ends up being 10$ more for the spacer.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
 
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jay745

What Would Glenn Danzig Do
About to buy the parts for this, here is my cart at hcstuning so far:

Counterhold T10355A
Timing chain cover lower 06H109210AG
Timing chain tensioner upper 06K109467K
Hex bolt x15 for cover N91096702
Crank pully bolt WHT001760
Gasket silicone sealant D174003M2
Still searching for the pully bolt spacer tool (saw that some just bought 4 washers to use in its place, but how thick were they and what was their diameter?)

Do I need to buy sealant for the cover? Because I don't see the gasket
Should I put some kind of thread locker on the pully bolt?
Am I missing anything?
Think I have a 10mm triple square bit but might have to grind down.

Decided to go with the 06K-198-467-K kit from deutsch auto parts that has the cover, sealant, tensioner, and the little spacer tool. Ends up being 10$ more for the spacer.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

The crank bolt spacer is part# T10368
I have an extra one. $10 and it's yours.
 

DELETE

Autocross Champion
I want to do this myself, just don't want to blow it and end up having the car down to run around or have to order a part without a loaner which the dealer who's gonna charge me up the butt to do it for me will offer and honestly having the dealer tech(s) do it doesn't really give me piece of mind. Lol this effin sucks big hairy slippery when wet ball sack.
 

coffeebreak1011

New member
washer was for 5/8 bolt. OD was 1.5 inches. didn't measure thickness, eyeballing it at about 1/2 inches total thickness of all washers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

aregister

Ready to race!
I want to do this myself, just don't want to blow it and end up having the car down to run around or have to order a part without a loaner which the dealer who's gonna charge me up the butt to do it for me will offer and honestly having the dealer tech(s) do it doesn't really give me piece of mind. Lol this effin sucks big hairy slippery when wet ball sack.

Hey man,
I had the same thoughts, and my wife's tiguan was showing signs of failure so I finally bit the bullet.
Buy:
1. a new timing cover,
2. permatex ultra black tube of sealant,
3. the updated tensioner,
4. the pulley spacer that everyone talks about (but technically as long as u replace the bolt with an inch or so of gap after u pull the crank pulley, you should be good,
5. and an o-ring for your dipstick (#wht-003-463).
6. the crank pulley bolt (not necessary but def recommended)
If you dont have an impact wrench you should get one. If not, you'll have to buy the special pulley spanner wrench. Thats it.
If you have the stock IHI, you'll have to take the outlet nozzle off as well to get the timing cover on and off.
Its not too bad once you start, just realize you're tearing the whole passenger side of the engine bay down. As long as u've planned far enough ahead to have read this DIY, you should be good.
 

Driftin

New member
I'm just finishing replacing my tensioner on a 2011 GTI. A few things to note - the turbo outlet was in the way for me to take the old cover off so I removed it. You can see it in the picture. Very tight spot and I had to work my way into taking out the 3 bolts. Check your new crank bolt to make sure it has an O ring on it.


The new tensioner installed easy as stated in the DIY guide. It felt like a lot of parts to take off and it is. Take your time and have the short tripple square bits handy for the project. I used a 10m gear wrench with the bits to remove the many parts. like I said its a tight spot.

Old


New




you can see the turbo output flange is off so I could put on the new cover. Here is the best tool to use for taking off this little stuff. 10mm gear wrench
 
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rtnlsltn

Passed Driver's Ed
So I just did everything, took my time, cleaned everything extremely well... and my timing case cover leaks on the right bottom side. Ughhhhh. It's not a crazy amount, but enough that I made its way to the back of the pan and dripped onto the underbody shield after a 30min spirited drive.

The timing case cover bolts seem to still be able to be snugged a bit. I followed torque and gave them an extra 45 degrees, per instructions. They seemed very tight on install, but now seem to have more give with the engine warmed up.... Fuuuuuuck.

What do I do? Pull the whole thing and restart? Tighten the bolts and pray? lol.
 

DELETE

Autocross Champion
So I just did everything, took my time, cleaned everything extremely well... and my timing case cover leaks on the right bottom side. Ughhhhh. It's not a crazy amount, but enough that I made its way to the back of the pan and dripped onto the underbody shield after a 30min spirited drive.



The timing case cover bolts seem to still be able to be snugged a bit. I followed torque and gave them an extra 45 degrees, per instructions. They seemed very tight on install, but now seem to have more give with the engine warmed up.... Fuuuuuuck.



What do I do? Pull the whole thing and restart? Tighten the bolts and pray? lol.



You re used the cover?
 
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