You've put a ton of work into your car. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! I just installed a turbo outlet pipe (TOP) yesterday too. I wanted to get more photos but my hands were so dirty that I didn't want to keep touching my phone haha.
Anyway I went with ARM Motorsports for this piece. It looks nice and is a little cheaper than the AWE one.
Tools I used were T25 torx, T30 torx, 10 mm wrench and a 7 mm wrench. Sockets may or may not work depending on the orientation of the clamps and if you have deep sockets or not. I ended up using my old clamps and the aluminum piece in between the pipe and silicone hose. I didn't use the new silicone either. The reason I did not use the new aluminum piece is because it sat very loosely in the pipe and I wasn't sure that was correct. It also did not have a o-ring like the OEM part, and the OEM ring was too large for this piece.
There were no instructions at all in the box or that I found on their site. The install is relitively easy, but I am still left wondering why their included aluminum piece is so much smaller that OEM and doesn't fit snugly. Maybe it is meant to be that way, but I didn't take the chance.
The parts for install.
Old pancake pipe.
New pipe.
To install:
1. I jacked my car up, set it on jack stands, and removed the wheel.
2. I took the fender liner off (if that's what it's called?) using a torx t20 bit. There are lots of these to remove. They're in the wheel well and under the front bumper area. That piece pulls out toward the back of the car.
3. Then I loosened the two torx t30 bits holding the old TOP in place. I probably should have loosened the band clamps first that hold the silicone on the pipe, but it didn't mess anything up in my case. The pipe just wiggled while initially breaking the nuts loose.
4. Wriggling the pipe and twisting allowed me to get it free and out of the car.
5. Took the metal clip off the OEM pipe using a wrench to pry it up. Anything will work, but I had a 7 mm wrench handy and it fit fine. Just pull the tab sticking out and the clip will come loose. After that it can be done by hand on the new pipe if you need to rearrange it.
6. Tried fitting the new aluminum adapter in the new pipe. It was very loose. I ended up using the OEM piece here. Replaced the clip (don't think it makes a difference on the new pipe).
7. The same clip that held the aluminum adapter to the OEM pipe is found at the turbo outlet. This holds a metal piece with silicone attached in it. Took the clip out and pulled the silicone/metal out.
8. Transferred grommets from old pipe to new one. Pull the screws out first, then the grommets. Installing on the new pipe is the opposite. Push in the grommets and then insert the screws.
9. Shoved the new pipe into the stock silicone from the turbo outlet. At first I didn't push it deep enough and the pipe was going to be rubbing against my frame. It also scrunched the stock silicone by the turbo outlet and basically kinked it. I took everything back out and pushed the pipe as far down as I could, leaving about 1" between the TOP and the metal adapter (piece that attaches to turbo). I had to stretch the stock silicone quite a bit while doing this. A slightly oiled finger inside the silicone while pushing and rotating helped here.
10. Put the metal/silicone adapter back in the turbo outlet. Reinserted the "snap ring" to lock it in place.
11. Screwed in the two t30 torx bolts to secure the pipe. It didn't line up the first time when I didn't push the TOP far enough. After having it seated much further in the silicone and rotated correctly the bolts lined right up.
12. Attached the silicone (front bumper side) to the TOP and tightened the clamp.
13. Reinstalled the fender lining and bolts.
Here are a bunch of photos showing where bolts are (and misc. pics). They may not be in the best order, imgur or my computer messed up the order of things when transferring. You can click if you need to make them larger. First one is of the aluminum adapter I did not end up using.