Engine Fault Workshop!

seabrook132 said:

So was driving to work this morning at just before 6am. About a mile away from work (30 mins and 20 miles from home) and the car splutters and the EPC light illuminates and 'Engine Fault Workshop!' is shown in the DIS. This then goes away and car runs fine for a second or so and then lights come back and engine is now running rough. Drives like this for a bit and then runs a bit smoother but with reduced power until I pull into work and turn off.

Busy day so did't get a chance to come out and look at the car at all until time to leave. Have a check around under the bonnet. Notice some oil around the camshaft position sensor but nothing else obviously wrong so chance a start. Engine runs fine. I have VCDS at home so I think at this point that I'll see what happens, drive gently and hope to get back home where I can give it a scan. Engine runs fine all the way back.

Back at home and this is what comes up on the scan:
Monday,03,October,2016,13:58:16:19790
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x86
VCDS Version: 16.8.2.3
Data version: 20160926 DS261.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: WVW************** License Plate: *******
Mileage: 136840km-85028mi Repair Order: 20161003-1



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Chassis Type: 1K (7N0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 14 15 16 17 19 25 2E 37 42 44 46 52 56 62 72


VIN: WVW************** Mileage: 136840km-85028miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
14-Susp. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
2E-Media Player 3 -- Status: OK 0000
37-Navigation -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000

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Address 01: Engine (CCZ) Labels: 06J-907-115-CCZ.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 907 115 HW: 1K0 907 115 AA
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0050
Revision: AAH18--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403000C1C070060
Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200
VCID: 67DDEBF556209A7A15-8032

2 Faults Found:
000017 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake)
P0011 - 000 - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced) - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 136812 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.02.24
Time: 05:45:45

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1850 /min
Load: 51.0 %
Speed: 75.0 km/h
Temperature: 95.0∞C
Temperature: 7.0∞C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V

000833 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P0341 - 000 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 14
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 136813 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.02.24
Time: 05:46:45

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1569 /min
Load: 41.9 %
Speed: 53.0 km/h
Temperature: 94.0∞C
Temperature: 9.0∞C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

I've taken out the camshaft position sensor and given it, the connection to it and the area around a clean up. Thinking that maybe the leak past the o-ring of the sensor has got into the electrical connection maybe? New sensor and associated o-ring on order as it's only a cheap part and needs replacing due to the leak anyway.

Anyone seen this problem or fault codes before? Not convinced that the sensor is the issue even though car is running fine at present. Always a worry to see timing faults particularly with all the history of tensioners failing etc even though mine is 2011 car. Could this be pointing to something far more serious?

Current plan is to fit the new sensor when it's here and monitor after that. Possibly get the car booked in at a local specialist to get the timing checked?

Click to expand...

thatspsychotic said:

I think you're on the right track, either camshaft position sensor (I had mine replaced simply for the oil leak) or faulty cam adjuster bridge, or perhaps dirty or failing VVT unit. The cam adjuster bridge is known to fail, mine was found to have a perforated oil screen when the tech was in there to replace the tensioner (proactively). Since the car does run fine some of the time it isn't likely to be the tensioner this time.

Also having a 2011 car does NOT mean you're out of the woods for tensioners. My 2011 did have the old tensioner, so that made me feel slightly better about the MASSIVE bill to replace it and a bunch of other stuff in there.

Click to expand...

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16395/P0011/000017