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509whp problems....

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Sebastian89

Sebastian89

Ready to race!
Y did u not tell me about epic thread Derek lol.

I went to this event, and I have to agree. The track was absolutely terrible. We only had a couple of decent passes, and those were when the sun came out for about 20 minutes, but still not good enough to hold traction when u make it past the 60'. This was the second time we went to that track. The first time it was summer time and about 100 degrees out, so the track was as dry as it can be. Also, they would put tack down and clean the track after 4-5 runs each time. This time around, they weren't spraying anything, and they didn't clean the track but a couple of times all day.

In response to the no helmet and passenger thing.
Per track rules, you don't need helmet unless you run under 11, and same thing for passenger. Not to say that having the extra safety would hurt of course.

Oh, and thanks for telling everyone I was bogging prick :paddle: :bellyroll:
 
Sebastian89

Sebastian89

Ready to race!
*****2.0t said:
About not heating up the tires...you have to do it. Everytime. Bake the shit out of them in SECOND, even if you come right back around and line back up. It will make a world of difference.


With proper tires, first gear will still take some modulation, but second should be hooking enough to go all out. If it's not, try higher springs rates in the rear and/or jack up the rears height.
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stupid question, but i heard if u heat them up too much they get too oily and don't grip?

Also, I forgot my allens to soften up front suspension. How much would it be good to raise up the rear?
 
V

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Sebastian24 said:
stupid question, but i heard if u heat them up too much they get too oily and don't grip?

Also, I forgot my allens to soften up front suspension. How much would it be good to raise up the rear?
Click to expand...

That'll happen with street tires. Most slicks will take just about all the heat you can get into them. It's best to get them really smoking, release the parking brake, whack the gas a few more times coming out of the burnout and then let off and let them slow down them selves and you'll get that chirp of them sticking.

I've actually never raised the rear personally. But whenever I go back I'm going to. At launch you can see how much the rear compresses. All of that power transfer to the back is lost power transfer to the front, which in our case is the drive wheels. If you look at most FWD drag cars, the rear is jacked sky high. So I would think the higher you can get it would be best. BUT, the best option here would be to either put the rear shock at the hardest dampning or get springs with higher spring rates.

I've been contemplating making up something solid for where the rear shock is for drag racing purposes. It would probably look super ridiculous, but it shouldn't be too hard to weld something together that bolts to the top and bottom where the stock shock is. This should take out most of the power transfer to the rear. Once again, people would probably think I'm ridiculous to do something like this, but it would take all of 10 minutes before you hit the strip to swap out the rear shocks for some solid pieces. And it just might work. :iono:
 
Fireball92981

Fireball92981

Banned
*****2.0t said:
Although I also think this much power in a FWD car is retarded, I'll try and add some valuable input.

For one, these are really solid numbers for a kit that usually doesn't make shit on APR's tune. So props for that!

Are you looking to drag race this all the time? Or just street race? Other tracking?

Hoosier ET Street's hook really really well once heated up. The difference is incredible. They are street legal, and probably won't last much less than any of the other high performance "street" tires like the ones you were talking about. Zijji runs his for multiple days at a time it seems without issue. They come in 17's also.

If you are really serious about drag racing, lose the BBK and drop down to some 15's and slicks. I'm assuming that's probably out of the question, but it's your best bet for launching. If you check out what Patrick has on his GLI, those are 15's and that car hooks like a motherfucker for a FWD car, and makes like 150whp more than yours does.

About not heating up the tires...you have to do it. Everytime. Bake the shit out of them in SECOND, even if you come right back around and line back up. It will make a world of difference.

The no helmet thing is hit or miss. I used to run at Summit Motorsports Raceway, which is a huge track where they do a ton of NHRA shit and they never made you wear a helmet. There were cars running 11's without a helmet. But just Sunday I was at a smaller track in Jersey (Island) and everyone had to wear one, no matter what. In reality you aren't going fast enough to need one with all the airbags and crap in these cars, but you should wear it anyway. Especially if you brought one.

With proper tires, first gear will still take some modulation, but second should be hooking enough to go all out. If it's not, try higher springs rates in the rear and/or jack up the rears height.
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First I agree, 500whp is worthless if you cant put it down, so im trying to fix that problem, the only weak link left is my tires so im trying to fix that. Ive only had this new HP level for less than a month. Before that I was at 420 and the 615ks did the job just fine, no longer the case.

I know there is prob a lot of BS to read thru so you prob skipped most of it. But I stated like 4 times that I'm not that big into drag racing nor do i care that much about it. I'm really wanting to get into tracking the car all out. So im looking for track tires which im leaning towards Hoosier R6 or R7s and either putting them on a 17 or 18" wheel, dont know which wheel size is the better choice for tracking. And then for regular street driving im looking to run the stickiest damn street legal tire possible that safe to drive around on. The car will only be used for spirited driving and not for commuting and getting groceries. I'm prob just going to go with Federal 595 RS-Rs....im reading great reviews about them and they are dirt cheap compared to similar tires, which is a huge plus....some people even buy them as dedicated R-comp track tires...but they arent near grippy enough for what im looking for out of track tires.

You trying to say Patricks GLI makes 660whp? thats news to me.

Not familiar with Hoosier ETs, is that another term for drag radials?
But if I ever find myself wearing slicks or drag radials again at a track, I will be sure and cook em. Although I read on the manufactures sites what was recommended by them and almost all said to just burn out till you saw smoke and then immediately stop, anymore would be a waste. Thanks for the constructive advice.
 
Tk_mkv1

Tk_mkv1

Go Kart Champion
Fleron230 said:
I just find it funny that there is a stock turbo GTI that can do the quarter mile in 12.6, lol
Click to expand...

it maybe possible if you strip the doors, hatch, seats, spare tire, radio, A/C, put Single mass flywheel, lightweight wheels, lightest racing seat possible, take a headlight off go get more air on intake, remove grille, remove fog lights and housing, s3 intercooler, and underweight driver :laugh:

and stage 2 obviously
 
intoflatlines

intoflatlines

Drag Race Newbie
Fireball9298 said:
First I agree, 500whp is worthless if you cant put it down, so im trying to fix that problem, the only weak link left is my tires so im trying to fix that.
Click to expand...
Didn't you say that you have stock motor mounts and stuff, and that you were wheel hopping all over the place? That's a HUGE weakness that you should fix ASAP.

Not familiar with Hoosier ETs, is that another term for drag radials? But if I ever find myself wearing slicks or drag radials again at a track, I will be sure and cook em.
Click to expand...
If you use drag radials on a road course, you're gonna have a bad time.
 
jay745

jay745

What Would Glenn Danzig Do
V

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Fireball9298 said:
First I agree, 500whp is worthless if you cant put it down, so im trying to fix that problem, the only weak link left is my tires so im trying to fix that. Ive only had this new HP level for less than a month. Before that I was at 420 and the 615ks did the job just fine, no longer the case.

I know there is prob a lot of BS to read thru so you prob skipped most of it. But I stated like 4 times that I'm not that big into drag racing nor do i care that much about it. I'm really wanting to get into tracking the car all out. So im looking for track tires which im leaning towards Hoosier R6 or R7s and either putting them on a 17 or 18" wheel, dont know which wheel size is the better choice for tracking. And then for regular street driving im looking to run the stickiest damn street legal tire possible that safe to drive around on. The car will only be used for spirited driving and not for commuting and getting groceries. I'm prob just going to go with Federal 595 RS-Rs....im reading great reviews about them and they are dirt cheap compared to similar tires, which is a huge plus....some people even buy them as dedicated R-comp track tires...but they arent near grippy enough for what im looking for out of track tires.

You trying to say Patricks GLI makes 660whp? thats news to me.

Not familiar with Hoosier ETs, is that another term for drag radials?
But if I ever find myself wearing slicks or drag radials again at a track, I will be sure and cook em. Although I read on the manufactures sites what was recommended by them and almost all said to just burn out till you saw smoke and then immediately stop, anymore would be a waste. Thanks for the constructive advice.
Click to expand...

I read most of it, I couldn't really get a good read on whether on not you were into it (drag racing) or not. But ok! Well yea, I'm not super familiar with all of the super sticky tires out there. I rememeber always reading good things about Hankook RS3's, but I don't know if they're even still made or how they stack up to whats out now. I just looked up the R7 and R6's and they look to be pretty badass tires. For the track I would go with the smallest wheel possible. Lighter wheels and lighter tires in 17's than in 18's. Probably more 17" tire options too.

Yea, Patricks car is over 600whp for sure. I though I remembered reading it was 640 or something. I know it's over 600 though. There is a ton of money tied up in it though, and one of his other cars is a Ferrari, so I'm sure breaking shit every other day to get to that point isn't as much of a problem for him as it would be for most though. He's a really good and helpful dude though. If you ever have any questions about shit he's always gives you a good answer.

ET streets is just Hoosiers term for drag radials. They are "street legal" because of the one or two threads down the middle and have a stiffer sidewall compared to all out slicks. I guess everyone has their preference, but cooking the hell out of them has always worked for me. Not just with the GTI, but with other stuff as well.

And sure thing about the advise. I initally was going to rag on the whole big power front wheel drive thing, but decided not to be a dick like everyone else :lol::thumbsup:
 
Jaber

Jaber

Modero
I'd still like to know (as others I'm sure), what mods this 509WHP has. :iono:

Unless once you're past 400whp, mod lists are secret. :iono:
 
V

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Tkulhanc134 said:
it maybe possible if you strip the doors, hatch, seats, spare tire, radio, A/C, put Single mass flywheel, lightweight wheels, lightest racing seat possible, take a headlight off go get more air on intake, remove grille, remove fog lights and housing, s3 intercooler, and underweight driver :laugh:

and stage 2 obviously
Click to expand...

Someone just did it with a damn near full weight stage 2 car on 100 octane. It's easier to go faster with less power in a FWD car, or any car for that matter, in a drag racing situation. Just look at the list of big turbo cars running good times compared to K04 cars.

intoflatlines said:
Didn't you say that you have stock motor mounts and stuff, and that you were wheel hopping all over the place? That's a HUGE weakness that you should fix ASAP.

If you use drag radials on a road course, you're gonna have a bad time.
Click to expand...

He has VF mounts. And I tried road course tires on the drag strip once. That was exciting. LOL.
 
shdwblugti

shdwblugti

Go Kart Champion
S

Sspcivic31

Drag Race Newbie
Airlift makes helper bags for rv's and trucks to help with towing. You can get a kit for less than $60 and fit to the rear springs. Will help to keep weight on the front for drag or straight line roll race stuff. Don't want the airred up for daily driving or road course type stuff.

Fireball there was a guy named john berget who sells used road race tires. I will see if I can dig up his info. You might try him and buy used road race compound tires to try out. Before you blow a huge load of cash

Edit:http://www.jbracingtires.net/
 
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