Renner
Go Kart Champion
I was thinking of doing mine...how was it. Did you have help? How many hours did it take you? I am reading through all the DIY and honestly it doesn't look that hard
6
Installing a K04 kit on higher mileage engines
- Thread starter nick n
- Start date
I was thinking of doing mine...how was it. Did you have help? How many hours did it take you? I am reading through all the DIY and honestly it doesn't look that hard
Cryptic19111
Go Kart Champion
If everything comes apart, it's really not that bad. I had a bitch of a time getting it all apart because all my bolts were rusty as hell. Going back together wasn't bad at all. I would pb blaster everything and let it sit if it's rusty at all
Make sure you have some LONG allen sockets so you can get the heatshield off.. its impossible to get at it with short ones, and allen keys flex too much
My downpipe bolts were rusty as shit.. I had to pop my ball joint bolts and inner axle bolts so I could move the axle front and back a bit so I could get in there with a wrench and with a pipe on it. I didn't have enough room to get a breaker bar
My oil return line bolts on the turbo (triple squares) were really rusted, so I had to hose the shit out of them with pb blaster and hammer the bits in there so I could pop it loose
When you pop the small coolant lines in the engine bay, you're gonna loose coolant out of the two on the drivers side, so wire them up, otherwise it'll keep draining all over.
The rear coolant line on the turbo (banjo bolt), pop it loose, and let it trickle into a pan, and go get a drink for a bit. If you just pop it off, you'll have like 3/4 of a gallon of coolant pouring all over everything
You'll need 3/8" extensions and either a swivel joint, or a ball end extension for a socket so you can get to the front downpipe bolt on the bottom
I took the whole heatshield off with the coolant lines attached, rather than separating it, but make sure you put your coilpack harness above it when you reinstall. I bolted it all back in with the harness trapped under the metal coolant line. It doesn't hurt anything, but I can't get it out now without removing the lines lol
My turbo manifold nuts were rusted to the studs, so the studs came out. I called the dealer, and they didn't have any in stock, but he said the audi dealer had some
Remove the turbo outlet rubber hose, and also take the 3 allen bolts out of the turbo housing that hold the outlet tube into the turbo muffler (the part where it expands to like 3"), otherwise you'll have a bitch of a time getting the turbo out. I got it loose and couldn't get it up and around the head without taking that off
I'd put the turbo outlet tube, and the diverter valve in after you bolt the turbo in so you don't bang them around trying to get it in there
I bought this set of allen / torx / triple square bits, and it helped a ton to have the different length bits, and the ability to use a 10mm wrench to turn some of the short ones http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40-Piece-Industrial-Triple-Square/dp/B007SX10AG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1401803796&sr=8-4&keywords=triple+square
These long allens are what I needed to get the 6mm bolt out of the heatshield.. it's so close to one runner on the manifold that you can't get anything else larger on it
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-metric-long-reach-hex-bit-socket-set-7-piece-67890.html
and these long ball allens were a life saver for me a few times as well. I think I had to use one of these to get my turbo support bracket bolt out of the turbo.
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-metric-long-ball-head-hex-socket-set-7-piece-67888.html
Make sure you have some LONG allen sockets so you can get the heatshield off.. its impossible to get at it with short ones, and allen keys flex too much
My downpipe bolts were rusty as shit.. I had to pop my ball joint bolts and inner axle bolts so I could move the axle front and back a bit so I could get in there with a wrench and with a pipe on it. I didn't have enough room to get a breaker bar
My oil return line bolts on the turbo (triple squares) were really rusted, so I had to hose the shit out of them with pb blaster and hammer the bits in there so I could pop it loose
When you pop the small coolant lines in the engine bay, you're gonna loose coolant out of the two on the drivers side, so wire them up, otherwise it'll keep draining all over.
The rear coolant line on the turbo (banjo bolt), pop it loose, and let it trickle into a pan, and go get a drink for a bit. If you just pop it off, you'll have like 3/4 of a gallon of coolant pouring all over everything
You'll need 3/8" extensions and either a swivel joint, or a ball end extension for a socket so you can get to the front downpipe bolt on the bottom
I took the whole heatshield off with the coolant lines attached, rather than separating it, but make sure you put your coilpack harness above it when you reinstall. I bolted it all back in with the harness trapped under the metal coolant line. It doesn't hurt anything, but I can't get it out now without removing the lines lol
My turbo manifold nuts were rusted to the studs, so the studs came out. I called the dealer, and they didn't have any in stock, but he said the audi dealer had some
Remove the turbo outlet rubber hose, and also take the 3 allen bolts out of the turbo housing that hold the outlet tube into the turbo muffler (the part where it expands to like 3"), otherwise you'll have a bitch of a time getting the turbo out. I got it loose and couldn't get it up and around the head without taking that off
I'd put the turbo outlet tube, and the diverter valve in after you bolt the turbo in so you don't bang them around trying to get it in there
I bought this set of allen / torx / triple square bits, and it helped a ton to have the different length bits, and the ability to use a 10mm wrench to turn some of the short ones http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40-Piece-Industrial-Triple-Square/dp/B007SX10AG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1401803796&sr=8-4&keywords=triple+square
These long allens are what I needed to get the 6mm bolt out of the heatshield.. it's so close to one runner on the manifold that you can't get anything else larger on it
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-metric-long-reach-hex-bit-socket-set-7-piece-67890.html
and these long ball allens were a life saver for me a few times as well. I think I had to use one of these to get my turbo support bracket bolt out of the turbo.
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-metric-long-ball-head-hex-socket-set-7-piece-67888.html
Last edited:
boosted135
Ready to race!
In theory the block should be good to around 200k+. Everything around the engine is what's going to need to be replaced with k04 strain. Engine mounts, water pump, fuel pump, injectors? Those are the parts that usually take the brunt of the wear.
sauceman101
Ready to race!
at 101k myself, so many miles haha, plan on going k04 towards the end of this summer after i do clutch and diff. will likely be at around 110k +/-
jettaglx91
Go Kart Champion
I'm pretty sure he is on here but don't know his name. Mk5 tsi if I remember correctly did k04 at like 20k miles and has about 100k on it now
jettaglx91
Go Kart Champion
fkshtup
Ready to race!
No the head is being rebuilt. When the intake manifold came off is when I saw the nasty carbon build-up.
jettaglx91
Go Kart Champion
fkshtup
Ready to race!
My head leaked out 80% of the air when they did the air test. Test was done at 90 psi