First Oil change, 10K My Ass!

svickstc said:

^^^ I wouldn't just because i choose to shorten my intervals to 5k does not mean im not going to use top shelf oil for my car, in this case ive been with Motul designed for DI motors and use OEM Filter...

I dont see why sacrificing "potential" oil quality just because you shorten intervals makes sense? To me it would be the same as using good oil for the full 10K to shorten inverals and use cheaper oil..

In the realm of things its like ~70 bucks an oil change...if you're driving a GTI, I dont think it should really be hurting your wallet for some good piece of mind?

To me this is a cheaper oil change then the other cars ive owned so maybe im biased in that sense?

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tdi793 said:

Just picked up my CPO 12 gti today. Car has 6000 miles on it, and and not sure how long its been sitting on the lot. Should I go ahead and do the first oil change, especially not knowing how the original owner drove the first 6000 miles?

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DarthMaul said:

Unfortunately, CPO doesn't mean anything. Most dealers just do a safety check (tires, brakes, leaks, etc.) and MAYBE replace tires if it desperately needs it. Everything else is not replaced because it comes out of the Sales Department's pockets. Once the new owner takes delivery, then it will be covered by the CPO warranty, so the Sales Department figures why should they pay for it upfront if they can just get it covered under manufacturer's warranty (provided of course that the customer notices a problem) once the car gets sold. Also, all pre-owned cars get what's known as a "pack" factored into the price. The pack is basically a pre-determined dollar amount based on age of car, mileage, etc. that is there to cover the cost of anything that breaks after the customer takes delivery. Now on CPO cars, since the CPO warranty will cover issues, there usually isn't a traditional pack applied to the price. However, the cost of the CPO application process (usually around $800-$1200) is tacked on to the price of the car, so you basically pay for the CPO warranty upfront.

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Randallino said:

So how about it the first oil change when and why and does VW put a differnt oil in the car at the factory? I heard from a couple of VW service reps that they do.
Thanks.
RC

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McQueen77 said:

my CPO warranty already covered something. hood liner was sagging and corroding, they installed a new one free. i was told it would not have been covered if it werent for the warranty it would have been like $300. this is due to it being deemed 'wear and tear item' only covered for '12k miles' just like other 'body integrity' or 'build' issues.

CPO extends bumper to bumper by 2 years. that may or may not be used, but saying that CPO is just a 'visual safety check' that I could do myself is bullshit. I got a really good deal on my CPO GTI w/9k miles on it. It was 7 months older than a new one on the lot with the exact same options for $4000 more. 9k miles doesnt = $4000 in my book.

the fact that your new car instantly loses close to the amount I saved the minute you drive it off the lot is the real 'rip off'.

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SuPeR GTi said:

eh depends. i was in the same situation and according to my math its was close to 3k difference. i went with a new one. i knew exactly how its been driven since 17 miles, the day i picked it up. if i was decided on dsg, cpo would be a no brainer. but mt? alot of wear and tear can happen in very little mileage if an idiot is behind the wheel.

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McQueen77 said:

perhaps. going on 26k/2 years with a year on stage 1 and all is well. we'll see.

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Audi Junkie said:

There's a lot of loose metal in the FF drain oil. UOAs confirm this.

I drained at 1000miles, plus did a flush of cheap oil.

Now I have zero consumption and ultra low wear....on 30 weight.

High Moly oil is great for break-in as it helps the cross-thatching get worn flat, rather than being rolled over. Quaker State Synth comes to mind.

I guess the subject is 10k intervals. Well, our gas sucks, and affects the oil condition.

Our gas is also the reason we can't use the new VW 504/507 oils, it just kills the oil.

This all aside, now we have the failing TB tensioners, sludge being an issue within the screened hydrolics of the unit.


I do 3 changes a year, adjusting the visc for different seasons. I go right from light winter oil to heavy summer oil around May 1, and onto a midweight around Haloween.

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