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2012 gti stereo build

nadams5755

Ready to race!
JT posted some pictures - https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10155183823314142.1073741864.75484824141&type=3

oh yeah, rearfill. wanted something higher than rear-doors. rear headrests are kinda high so the drivers needed to be placed higher.

i guess the designs are: crossfire for width, fire forward for depth. so i aimed at opposite rear oh-shit handles. JT put them in such that they're tucked out of the way. the hatch cover clears them as well. they're about as wide as they can get.

behind the ebay grills are audible physics mr3-p drivers powered by a small alpine ktp-445u amp.



i've had rearfill mostly disabled while i sort out the rest of it.
 

riceburner

Autocross Champion
verrry impressive build man... dig more than anything the attention to detail, both on your end with the sound levels and definitely the cleanliness of the installs! love the factory pattern matched plastics/leathers! and those door tweeters/mids setup is HUGE!
 

nadams5755

Ready to race!
i never installed any deadening on the floor. i felt there was a pretty decent amount from the factory anyway. thick foam under molded MLV/rubber coming down the firewall, slope, and down to the floor. on the floorpan was 2" of denim underneath the carpet and some spot CLD.

i wanted to reduce tactile feedback from midbasses in the kicks. i took a suggestion from a local audio nerd and applied some stuff in the driver/passenger footwells.

two layers of cld, one layer of ccf, and a layer of floating mlv. it took me about three hours.

result? less tactile feedback, only from the lowest notes now. floor feels a little taller. upper midbass response is different so i have to retune that again.

as for the rest of the feedback? try modifying some floormats.

trimmed up the factory floormat, fits much better than the car-go mat i was using. looks better too:



i also tried making some isolating floormats without success so far. i tried mlv, 1" foam from joann's, and a factory cloth floormat. it was worse than just the floormat by itself. if i pressed my feet in, it worked well so the foam was probably too stiff. i tried changing the order (foam, mlv, floormat), with the same results.

i tried mlv+ccf+floormat: also worse than the factory floormat.

double floormats works better than a single floormat.

some day soon, i'll grab some batting or find some very soft foam.

Most of the parking structure at work is “compact car” parking. If I wasn’t able to use my mirrors, I couldn’t do stuff like this:


 

nadams5755

Ready to race!
i bought a memory foam pillow and cut off a 1" layer. it wasn't any improvement for midbass tactile feedback. the best so far is double vw factory cloth floormats.

i'll try the other two suggestions another time.

i had quite a bit of tactile feedback in the door armrest from the sub. turn off the sub? feedback went away. some local audio nerds suggested i add a layer of mlv in the doors. if that didn't work, add lots of cld (4-5lbs worth).

the process sort of sucked:


but it worked. sub bass feedback from the doors are greatly reduced. took about three hours.

maybe tomorrow, i'll chase some slight b-pillar rattles.

rear wheel well vents are rattling as well but i'm afraid to seal them up.

last but not least: 034 put in a new clutch w/ more holding power and a fresh flywheel this week. also some new swaybar endlinks (factory ones cracked during subframe removal) :)
 

nadams5755

Ready to race!
did something different. i went unlimited class because i didn't want to disassemble for clamping. f-that. it would have been interesting to see how much power it was to get there though.



doors open/closed windows open/closed didn't really make a difference.
 

nadams5755

Ready to race!
spent some more time deadening the rest of the interior and tuning.

last season, i tried using a windshield cover for snow, held down w/ magnets to help keep the car cool during shows. even with a lot of neo magnets, a strong wind would lift it up. i took a hint from a friend and put some MLV squares and "quilted" them into the cover. underside is felt, outside is reflective. wife helped, she wants to redo it this fall with black thread inside and clear/gray/white outside.





with the MLV tiles to weigh it down, i don't need magnets anymore and it still folds up nicely. :)

i pulled the rest of the interior and did the rest of the floorboards and under the seat with CLD, CCF, and MLV:


i avoided trying to "taco" the headliner removing it. CLD on the ceiling. the factory board/fibrous deader was difficult to remove, so i didn't:


and HMF on the headliner:


i stuffed some denim insulation in gaps on the roof as well.

sometimes you need some help holding the headliner in place:


reinstalling everything wasn't any worse than stock. i expected it to be more difficult, but it wasn't.

end result? much reduced road noise, cooler interior, and less subwoofer tactile feedback. i had to re-integrate my subs: more cuts at 20-25hz and adjusting t/a.

all i have left is the rear doors, i'm waiting for more MLV and CCF to show up. i depleted my stock.
 

riceburner

Autocross Champion
nice post, in for more details. how did you go about removing the headliner, i.e., through a door or (most likely) the hatch? def looks easiest done with the seats out.

planning to tackle one day as i deaden up my own interior more and maybe alacantara it.
 
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