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SPM Front and Rear Sway bar install and review.

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A_Bowers

Moderator
As I have done in the past, this will serve as a DIY guide and review of these products.
If you have seen my recent comments about the dynamics of the car, you will have noticed a trend with what I have been saying.

I've got springs, W.ALK, UB and XB on the car. While all of these items have improved the handling attributes of the car, turn in, exit feel and general poise of the car, it is still miserably underswayed.

Enter SPM's recently released sway bars. I'll have to post my impressions on the FSB later as I don't have it in yet, but the rear is on and the DIY will commence.


Rear Sway Bar

Both the FSB and RSB came in very nice fitted packaging. The items did not slide around in the boxes, and were very easy to manage. I got excited when I rounded the corner and saw boxes.



Components included with the unit.

I've seen several people ask what bushings have been used with this kit and I'm pleased to inform those people and others reading this that they have used Energy Suspension bushings, which I believe are Teflon lined.





Brackets are 1/8 gauge steel with a nice finish on them, almost like a clear coat to prevent rust, which is a plus. Regular stamped steel would be prone to surface rust, and just not look good.


On to the DIY of removing this thing.
I did this in 30 mins literally right before I left for SoWo, so it's an easy job.

Jack the car up and support with stands.


Next slide under the rear of the car and use the XZN 10 (ill confirm later) to loosen the mounting brackets.

Then with a 5/8 wrench and a XZN 8 (ill confirm later) loosen the end links on either side and push the shoulder bolts out while wiggling the sway bar itself.

Make sure you do not damage the threads on the shoulder bolt.




After removing shoulder bolts, take sway bar brackets off.

Remove the sway bar from the underside of the car. This requires a small amount of maneuvering but it will come out.





As you can see the bar is physically larger, but what you don't feel is the physical weight of the unit. It's very different from the OEM one.

The bushings are split at the bottom to allow you to slide them over the bar.

Lube the bushings with the supplied grease before installing them
On the car, spin them around a few times to make sure the inside of the bushing is coated completely.

Install the brackets and use a rubber mallet to tap them all the way down to seat them properly.



Maneuver the bar back into place on the car and place the second part of the brackets on the bar. You must use these. If not the bushing will slide out.



Do the same for other side and tighten down. I didn't have the torque specs for the OEM bolt immediately on hand so ingot them good and tight by hand.

Double check connections and the lower the car down.

Slide back under the car (I barely fit) and re install the shoulder bolts into the sway bar ends.

I opted for soft right now simply because I was in a hurry, but the setting is up to you.

Tighten bolts back down ( again good and hand tight)





Clean up and you are done with the RSB.

I'll post driving impressions later and the FSB install as well.

Small thoughts now. Car is much tighter through turns. It actually wants to turn.

Soft is a good setting so far. I'm sure ill play around with it more as time goes by but it makes a noticeable difference in how the car behaves in turns.

It actually wants to turn!!!
 

grambles423

Automotive Engineer
Good write up.

Comments:
1) Teflon Bushings FTW. Non serviceable, but keep an eye on frictional wear. I see you put grease on there as a good measure.

2) Just as my engineering opinion, not a fan of the bracket design. At all. One picture has me cringing right now.

3) With the XB, you'll eliminate alot of the body roll, but you'll also relocate a lot of "twist" to the front. I highly suggest Tyrol Collars (Which I know is already on your radar), but you might find the front end more "floaty" cause of this. It'll be less apparent with your WALK, but still noticeable.

4) Call/Text me if you need help with the FSB. You'll manage, I'm sure, but Datuming the steering rack is a little tricky (Depending on the bracket design). I had to re-locate my bracket accordingly because the datum pin was not aligning. I'd do the collars at this point as well.

5) I cannot see, but is that set collar welded or just using a set screw?

6) Keep an eye on the "stress concentration zone" of the end of the bar to the link.
 

Wood

Ready to race!
I can comment on the front being floaty. I've got a hotchkis rsb set to medium on right now with the front lying in wait. With my xb the back is extremely tight, but now I'm getting almost a nose dive feeling going into turns. All of the roll of the car is transferred to the front outside spring, depending on the direction of the turn of course. Luckily tyrol collars are on the way and Memorial Day is a holiday. Woot woot.
 

Merkle

Banned
XZN, those the same as triple square bits?

And, of course! Excellent write up, I'll probably be getting these same bars soon. SPM has treated me well so far, I think I can count on them :thumbsup: (Details later)
 

A_Bowers

Moderator
XZN, those the same as triple square bits?

And, of course! Excellent write up, I'll probably be getting these same bars soon. SPM has treated me well so far, I think I can count on them :thumbsup: (Details later)

Yeah. XZN are the triple squares.

Like I said earlier. Ill have to confirm the sizes when I get back to the house.
 

Gunkata

Drag Race Newbie



sways are where it's at.
 

Gunkata

Drag Race Newbie


:laugh:


It's great for that go-kart feeling. Rear end breaks/can move better, turn in gets better. As long as you don't go too big/stiff, its pretty awesome.
 

dustinouch

Go Kart Champion
Great write up.

3) With the XB, you'll eliminate alot of the body roll, but you'll also relocate a lot of "twist" to the front. I highly suggest Tyrol Collars (Which I know is already on your radar), but you might find the front end more "floaty" cause of this. It'll be less apparent with your WALK, but still noticeable.

This. After I installed my rear vwr sway bar, the car felt twitchy and loose in a bad way. Felt like if I turned in too quickly the car would rotate too easily. I prefer a little bit of under steer. Installing the vwr front + rigid collars took really tied everything together. Turning-in and normal driving the car is tight flat and stable all at once.

Not sure if SPM includes new front brackets, that's something I should have changed out but didn't have when doing my install.
 
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