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Turbulent MAF Readings APR K04 V3.1

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Got my new/used MAF. Readings seem to be much better actually. This is the new sensor in the housing with no screen. At lunch today I'll swap the regular housing back in and report back. I'm actually pretty content with this. Every other thing seems fine, and I'm hitting almost 19 degrees of timing advance at 6500 rpm. Absolutely no misfires (logged that yesterday), and no other problems. I've included a boost actual bs requested map too, which I've compared with others and I actually hold boost longer than most so that's definitely ok.







Edit: that hiccup above is in none of my other logs, so I'm not really worried about that either. I think that was actually wheel spin.

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NeoSA1

Ready to race!
Is it normal for you to be spiking so high above your requested levels?
 

NeoSA1

Ready to race!
From what I've compared with, it's exactly the same for everyone else on this file. I'm even running the stock DV.

Okay cool. Since you've compared to other people's boost vs. requested graphs, how do your MAF readings compare? Are others' MAF readings smoother and more stable?

I've only seen my MAF readings go absolutely wonky like this once and it was 100% down to my intake setup. I'm willing to bet that if you switch to a more well-known setup your readings will smooth out.
 
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vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Okay cool. Since you've compared to other people's boost vs. requested graphs, how do your MAF readings compare? Are others' MAF readings smoother and more stable?

I've only seen my MAF readings go absolutely wonky like this once and it was 100% down to my intake setup. I'm willing to bet that if you switch to a more well-known setup your readings will smooth out.

Others readings are much smoother. BUT, as of right now since I swapped the MAF the readings seem to be substancially smoother. I'm wondering if when I swap back in the housing with the flow striaghtener if it will get even better.

I understand about the intake. But, my take on it is 99% of the time people have issues with intakes it is because of bends before the MAF, moving the MAF location, or not using the stock housing. My MAF is in the stock housing, in the stock location, I'm using an APR stage 2 pipe (which definitely works), and the length of travel from the filter to the MAF is a straight shot with no blockages. I'm finding it REALLY hard to believe the intake setup pre MAF is causing any issues. In theory, my setup is not any different than a carbonio/modshack/vwr/any of the other straight intakes (minus the heat shield/enclosure).

But, I'm going to swap the other housing back in and see where I'm at. If it doesn't smooth out at all I have a local willing to swap me a P-Flow for a few days to log on. At this point though, I'm kind of over it though. The car runs great, and everything else seems to be in check and meeting/exceeding the values I should be seeing, so I know it's still making really good power.
 

NeoSA1

Ready to race!
Your thinking on the intake design is definitely in the right direction. I had issues with a well-known intake and I still believe that it was caused by a bend before the MAF housing. Everything else on the intake was 100% fine, stock MAF housing, proper stage 2 pipe - but the intake would cause MAF reading issues on all cars it was fitted to. We eventually narrowed it down to the bended pipe before the MAF. Obviously that pipe wasn't straight for long enough to give the MAF accurate readings.

You obviously don't have that, but do you mind if I ask, does your intake filter have a bellmouth? That's usually crucial to ensure that air flowing from the airfilter itself isn't turbulent as all hell.
 

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Your thinking on the intake design is definitely in the right direction. I had issues with a well-known intake and I still believe that it was caused by a bend before the MAF housing. Everything else on the intake was 100% fine, stock MAF housing, proper stage 2 pipe - but the intake would cause MAF reading issues on all cars it was fitted to. We eventually narrowed it down to the bended pipe before the MAF. Obviously that pipe wasn't straight for long enough to give the MAF accurate readings.

You obviously don't have that, but do you mind if I ask, does your intake filter have a bellmouth? That's usually crucial to ensure that air flowing from the airfilter itself isn't turbulent as all hell.

The filter itself is a 6" opening K&N, and it's on a 6" to 3" velocity stack. There is about 4" from where the velocity stack tapers to 3" to the MAF screen. So if I'm reading you correct, yes it does.
 

sticksabuser

Ready to race!
In for the discussion.

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HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
The filter itself is a 6" opening K&N, and it's on a 6" to 3" velocity stack. There is about 4" from where the velocity stack tapers to 3" to the MAF screen. So if I'm reading you correct, yes it does.

you've got me interested in taking my screen out, I need to compare my most recent MAF logs to your graph. The velocity stack should straighten the air but taking the screen out is permanent. How did you remove it again?
 

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
you've got me interested in taking my screen out, I need to compare my most recent MAF logs to your graph. The velocity stack should straighten the air but taking the screen out is permanent. How did you remove it again?


Hammer and a flat head and then smoothed out with a dremel. You are buying a new MAF if you don't like the screen out as there is no going back (unless you're really good with JB Weld [emoji23])

I actually have a MAF with the screen back in again. Not sure if it's really doing anything differently with it in or out at this point. I tried a whole pile of things and eventually switched to a newer sensor and housing with the straightener and cleaned a bunch of sensors and fixed a few tiny boost leaks and now my readings are no longer turbulent.

I'd have to start a new slate of readings right now to find out if it helped or not. With a GT30 sitting in my basement and a motor in my garage messing with this anymore really isn't on my to do list. Lol.


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HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
Nice, I just cleaned all of my sensors as well, washed out all of the intake/boost tubes, flushed my intercooler and fixed a loose throttle body coupler. Now I want to run MAF logs all over again to see where I'm at with the screen in. If you're no longer going to test this can I borrow the MAF housing WITHOUT the screen to do the testing? Then I'll send back.

Hammer and a flat head and then smoothed out with a dremel. You are buying a new MAF if you don't like the screen out as there is no going back (unless you're really good with JB Weld [emoji23])

I actually have a MAF with the screen back in again. Not sure if it's really doing anything differently with it in or out at this point. I tried a whole pile of things and eventually switched to a newer sensor and housing with the straightener and cleaned a bunch of sensors and fixed a few tiny boost leaks and now my readings are no longer turbulent.

I'd have to start a new slate of readings right now to find out if it helped or not. With a GT30 sitting in my basement and a motor in my garage messing with this anymore really isn't on my to do list. Lol.


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vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Nice, I just cleaned all of my sensors as well, washed out all of the intake/boost tubes, flushed my intercooler and fixed a loose throttle body coupler. Now I want to run MAF logs all over again to see where I'm at with the screen in. If you're no longer going to test this can I borrow the MAF housing WITHOUT the screen to do the testing? Then I'll send back.

Sure. I have to find a box for it. If you have a USPS account, send me a label and I'll throw it in the mail for you. You can PM me if that's easier.

Here is my current MAF curve, smoooooooth.


That looks really nice! Actually looks really similar to mine. I'll grab my most recent graphs off my phone and post a couple up.
 
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