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Rear bottom strut to hub torque?

kelmadics

Passed Driver's Ed
Sorry if you have read this in vortex also. I am installing coils and I have researched and read that this 21mm bolt for the bottom strut to hub is
180nm (133 ft/lbs)? Seems really high but please verify. thanks

 
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AM407

Autocross Champion
I can't remember the exact torque value, but yes it is surprisingly high. Just wanted to chime in and say that you don't want to torque that bolt until the wheel is on and the weight of the car is on the springs.

I was a little skeptical at first that it would make much difference, but the alignment of the shock eyelet and the hub threads actually changes quite a bit with the weight of the vehicle.

Oh, and it's a shock, not a strut.

Edit: I guess it's not so much about the alignment of the shock eyelet and hub threads, but more about making sure the rubber shock bushing isn't tightened down and fixed at the extreme end of its range of twist.

And here you go: http://www.norcalmotorsports.org/us...Golf R Quick Reference Specification Book.pdf

On page 146 - 180 Nm.
 
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TRUboost

Go Kart Champion
My tq wrench only goes to 120 so I went with the really fuggin tight method. I installed without load and haven't had any issues.
 

AM407

Autocross Champion
My tq wrench only goes to 120 so I went with the really fuggin tight method. I installed without load and haven't had any issues.

Might not have issues right away, but your shock bushings might also wear out faster.

OP could also just jack up the LCA until it's at about normal ride height, then torque the shock bolt. It doesn't really need to be under load, just at its normal static position.

And it will be way easier to tighten without that spring in the way. I did mine on the ground and couldn't get the torque wrench on there either. Had to put a wrench on it then wrap a bigger wrench around that for extra leverage.
 

kelmadics

Passed Driver's Ed
Had to put a wrench on it then wrap a bigger wrench around that for extra leverage.

i am trying to imagine how you did this. i did notice the spring is very close to the bolt and my torque wrench will not fit in there
 

AM407

Autocross Champion
Like this, but you have to play around with it depending on whether you need to push or pull. In this picture, you'd be pushing down on it.

 

kelmadics

Passed Driver's Ed
ok thanks, I will try that but where do you put the torque wrench in that setup?

Since you said,
I guess it's not so much about the alignment of the shock eyelet and hub threads, but more about making sure the rubber shock bushing isn't tightened down and fixed at the extreme end of its range of twist.

What I am thinking now is compressing the control arm with a jack without the spring and torque the bolt since its more of a "range" thing.
 

AM407

Autocross Champion
ok thanks, I will try that but where do you put the torque wrench in that setup?

Since you said,

What I am thinking now is compressing the control arm with a jack without the spring and torque the bolt since its myore of a "range" thing.

No torque wrench, you just have to wing it. The lug nuts on my truck take 130 lb*ft, and I do tire changeovers twice a year, so I have a decent idea of what 130 feels like.

But if you don't have the springs on yet, then I agree it's probably best to use the torque wrench and just jack the lower control arm up into its normal static position.
 

elcroato1

Passed Driver's Ed
No torque wrench, you just have to wing it. The lug nuts on my truck take 130 lb*ft, and I do tire changeovers twice a year, so I have a decent idea of what 130 feels like.

But if you don't have the springs on yet, then I agree it's probably best to use the torque wrench and just jack the lower control arm up into its normal static position.

That's how I did it.
 
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