GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

"i don't know what i'm doing" 2.5 bought/built thread

lacesoutvic

Passed Driver's Ed
:sm3:

starting this thread off to bounce around ideas and document what's been done, for better or worse. bold for clarity, red for bad shit that happens to my poor car
ultimate goal is to just have a really nice car that i enjoy inside and out every day, or on a track day. and trying to squeeze as much power within ~6200rpm as possible, while remaining reliable. i really do love this car and plan on keeping it indefinitely, so i tend to stick to a lazy 5-7.5k oil change schedule.

bought the car in august 2013 with under 300 miles (still "new"). i suspect it may have been a rebadged 2012, but who knows with model year numbers. 2013 2.5 golf with convenience package -- leather wheel (not GTI style), leather handbrake, bluetooth, maybe some other jazz.

i don't use my feet to drive anymore and bought the car having never driven it (my dad was the test driver, and he didn't hoon it like i wanted him to), never bought hand controls. i liked the way it looked inside and out. i didn't even know the interior controls were backlit red until after i bought it, which was a pleasant surprise as it's my favorite color. after buying the car, before i even left the lot, my dad was upset it wasn't a honda accord (he's owned subaru, suzuki, honda, toyota), but he did haggle my interest rate down a quarter percent so i can't be too bummed.

the car sat in my backyard for a few weeks where i would stare at it longingly. i was licensed, but still without hand controls -- i was thinking that the state rehab agency would help me with them but that was insanely textbook bureaucratic nightmare. i eventually found out that i could get portable hand controls for $300. but before that, the first time i drove the car was at night to meet up with my girlfriend at the time -- with a swiffer handle (floor-broom portion taken off) and one of the cupholder rubber bottoms packing-taped to the end of it (for grip). with cruise control, my makeshift driving stick didn't need too much action -- but it was surprisingly fine in the city too. i practiced alternating between the throttle and brake thoroughly before even starting the car. thankfully, traffic was non-existent and the drive was uneventful, but still a bit scary.

my first time using a car wash, they ended up soaking the interior driver side because the window wasn't shut all the way. they had pretty awful management too, but i got some freebies out of them. a few years later, they ended up botching one of my oil changes (filter seal not on properly) and i ended losing most of my oil. reasoned my way to almost a full day's pay out of them. the car ultimately wasn't in bad shape thankfully, but was not happy that oil was all over my car and 3 states.

not too long after, and with the hand controls, i hooned it with 3 other people and a car full of crap to northern florida (never again) for a skate trip. in an undisclosed location (georgia) with an undisclosed driver (definitely not me), we learned that the car at FULL front/rear/hatch capacity can still reach 110mph. there were definitely a good amount of interior scuffs after the trip, including a skateboard griptape scratching one of the defogger lines on the hatch :thumbdown:

some things i bought and haven't installed:
- uberstealth sub box years ago. i even chipped in for perks on nik's gofundme which i didn't redeem until.... a couple months ago. he almost didn't believe it.
-IE intake manifold as motivation to follow through with a turbo build using JDL's kit. it was going to be sick. kids can dream. thygreyt and trillypop's build threads were huge inspirations. i also bought the rest of the intake bits, minus the tune, as i had the impression that UM was the best tune for the application, although it would be rational to assume IE would have the best possible tune for their own hardware. i didn't want to listen to everyone saying that stage 2 with the intake mani wasn't worth it for auto since all the gain is on the top end. i stared at dyno charts and rationalized it since the HP gain would still be greater ultimately, and reving as high as possible is not something that does not get old in this car. after overlaying the dyno charts over each other, i finally allowed myself to believe what IE had been saying the entire time: not worth it for autos. still hoping a TCM hack might make its way around, but not holding my breath. on the upside, i'm pretty sure the stage 1 UM tune has launch control -- can someone confirm this?
- euro cupholder - waiting to detail the car first before i do the nice interior bits.
- full black GTI upper interior bits from a guy, all brand new stuff minus the headliner -- still not installed, waiting on a good time to spend $400-800 on a headliner + labor, and also gotta detail first :)
- decent condition audi fat fives 17x8 and never installed them. gotta clean, polish, clearcoat -- or send them off. i will keep them as flashy nice wheels.
- "golf" branded doorsills and seat inserts from ebay. also waiting on detail.
- OEM battery box sides/top
- jom badgeless grille -- not sure if i like the "ribbed" look, but i'll probably install it anyway. if it bothers me, i will take two oem grilles and combine them like @lowasfuck on insta
- OEM mudflaps, never got around to it, and i kept forgetting when going in for service to have them throw them on in between rotating tires. oops. these will be installed within the next couple months.


things i actually installed:
first mods were shorter hatch struts for the disabled fam. also my first scratch on the c-pillar since my friend helped with the install :)))
deleted rear seat headrests for visibility.
then 35% tints all around with 20% rear. this is a good level, but i would never go more than 20-25 on the rear for visibility. don't know how the limo guys are doing it.

double apex USB charger. this is a glorified USB port which is an OEM part. that said, i bought it instead of doing my own wiring and soldering. the downside to this is that the included cable, for both the USB hub (there's a hub with multiple connectors, in case you want to use more USBs) AND the actual visible port is insanely too long. there are wiretaps to connect to the 12v cigarette lighter port that the USB charging hub connects to. i forget how long it was, but where i put it on the right side in the center console, the sleeved cable was poking through. the plastic trim into the passenger footwell. i put it on the right side instead of the recommended left side because i thought i was going to be installing permanent hand controls, which never happened. i don't regret the purchase and it looks nice in its intended location -- on the right side of all the blank buttons.

GTI/srirocco steering wheel (no controls) -- had the dealer install, since i was having a super frustrating time trying to undo the airbag clips. i wanted to use the plain gray side plastic bits, but those are integrated and non-removable on the original wheel. at the very least, i will ultimately vinyl wrap the chrome bits to a matching gray. if i go all-out, i will fill in the black mesh within the chrome bits on the side to make it flat/smooth, and then make it matching gray.

fast forward to more recent times, a few months ago i got the USP catted midpipe. i loved the slight growl that it brought out at mid rpms, and it still sounded completely stock at lower rpms. buttdyno confirmed mild improvement, but the sound was the best part. i started using 93 octane since someone said it helps mpg? hp? who cares. i'm not sure if it was the midpipe, the gasoline, or a combination but i got a CEL just a few tanks after the install. i still use 93 and i'll get a stage 1 UM tune soon.

midpipe install was $170 with an oil change, including the $40 OEM exhaust clamp. if you are getting a catback, don't get this clamp!! opt for stainless, the original was all rusted after a few years and ~40k miles.

a week later, i got the eurojet catback and didn't need the clamp anymore. this exhaust is low-sounding, very buttery smooth, and definitely loud when you stomp on it but not bad with normal driving. you hear little gurgly backfires when you let off the throttle occasionally, but it's all very subdued. there is drone at about 2100-2400rpm but it isn't awful - it really starts right at around 70mph, so when i highway cruise i put control on at 69. over time the exhaust seems to have broken in a bit and it isn't so awful, but still worst at those RPMs. not very raspy from what i can tell.
the tips are really really nice and polished, but i'm not a fan of the EJ star logo on top -- this looks to be a printed etching that should polish off easily. the tips do stick out a few inches from the bumper so it's definitely not subtle but i kind of like that. they are a very pleasing shape, look easy to clean, just the right size, great fitment other than the poke.
i'm definitely happy with the exhaust, especially for the price. my mechanic noted that it was a high-quality kit and he was stoked on the one v-band. HOWEVER the rearmost clamp is loose by a few mm and he suggested a 65-66mm clamp to replace it. i don't hear it rattle and i don't think there's a leak so the original clamp is staying. my guy also only charged me $20 (and he even bought me five guys... what a champ!).

all that said, i'm interested in swapping out the muffler for a borla eventually for more growl/rasp. i should have listened to more youtube clips with headphones in. look up the techtonics/single borla videos <3

few weeks ago, swapped out the reverse lights for deautokey LEDS. these suckers are bright and arguably a necessary mod, must have with tints. the only downside to these LEDs is that they are much larger than the stock incandescent bulbs so they don't fit securely in the housing -- it's really the plastic door on the inside of the hatch that holds everything in, but it's plenty secure and not a huge deal. and they are very very mildly blueish, but it is mostly white light.

installed aspherical blue-tinted side mirrors. another necessary mod, got on sale (most things here were purchased on sale). these are AWESOME because the blind spots in the car have definitely gotten me into some near-misses. i ALWAYS check them too. the only downside of these mirrors are that things especially are closer than they appear compared to stock. i also cracked the passenger side mirror taking it out, and mildly scratched the black plastic trim on the driver side inside the mirror housing -- but no one sees that but me. the blue tint really does help cut glare.

black fluid caps, because blue is not my color. if i had a golf R and a ton of money, i'd do a 2.5 swap... and a cluster swap, because red.

planned? mods/wishlist:
- this year i should pay off the car above all else....
- those new MK7 refresh style osram headlights? bought. probably won't install until i get my fender fixed.:iono:
- headers, maybe ceramic coated. i just found out victor @ evolution tuning hasn't disappeared tonight, after contacting JDL. oops. contacted
- tune. contacted fred @ UM.
- tyrolsport master bracket
- vacuum pump delete. bought spulen/IE parts. waiting for a nice weekend/my vacation to get this done. or if i bring it to my mech, think he'll get cajun fries this time?
- DIY intake, another DIY here. bought parts arriving in a couple days, $60-70 in parts beats $300 intake kits. and if i can't beat the TCM rev limiter and take advantage of intake manis, this will have to do.
- summer wheels/tires, looking at tirerack FF10s with pilot sports. i'm okay with keeping the steelies as winters for another year or two, they're very light also.
- adding a momentary rocker switch to my hand controls and solder to tiptronic +/-

- subframe work: h&r sways, tyrolsport deadset, walk, 034 dogbone mount rubber bushings and engine mounts/BFI
- chassis bracing: tyrolsport hatch brace, rear seat delete, unibrace ub, etc.
- suspension: bilstein b6s when the struts go, MAYBE DG springs (the way i drive, clearance is nice)
- maybe battery relocate
- reclining racing seats like corbeau cr1s since i still slide around on the stock seats
- stoptech st-40
- RNS/RCD510 (or aftermarket) with RVC
- shaved/euro R bumper with functional splitter
- (boy racer dream) big dumb hatch spoiler

must-do list:
- ATF fluid change. manual on prior models indicated 40k, my manual says 50k. blackstone (on someone else's thread) says every 25-30k. i will get this service done before i travel a decent bit in a month and probably do every ~25-35k after.
- vacuum pump delete. these seem to be a gradual timebomb sooner rather than later. @45k miles, i don't want to risk going too much further without resolving this.
- tune. with that CEL, i'll need to get inspected eventually...

other dumb things that happened:
- a guy cutting me off from the right lane and denting my front-right fender
- right sideskirt area has a dent from a large rock from when i was pulling out of my driveway angrily at my dad
- left driver door area has paint scratches, dents, interior scuffs from transferring into the car
- asked my mom to put up my windshield wipers in the middle of a snowstorm after i had gotten inside, instructed her how, she took this as a challenge to fight the wiper arms and pull them up manually. the right side no longer tucks neatly so you can't see it 100%. if it bothers me enough i may just replace both motors at some point.
- interior has a concerning amount of carbon fiber dust from my wheelchair hard seat pan which needs to be sealed (hence the NEED for a detail)
- rear bumper has random scuffs, none of which were from me
- windshield was replaced due to a major crack. replacement windshield has another MAJOR (several foot) hairline crack. will replace if it becomes an actual problem, like leaking. on the upside, the replacement had a sweet tinted glass top which blends in with the 35% sides.

as a fun last note, prior to exhaust mods and doing mixed, relatively normal driving, i would always get 28-34 measured mpg. highway hooning never seemed to count, since I would consistently get 32mpg+ despite cruising ~80. after exhaust mods, i get 14-25. such a good sound.... excited to hear how the DIY intake will change that.

if you've read this far, introduce yourself! tell me what you've done with your cars. thanks for reading.
 

ahard48

Ready to race!
Welcome man! Im Austin and located in NY, so just a state over. Excited to see where your car goes with your modding plans. Upload a picture of your car sometime. I am interested in seeing your interior set up!

Happy driving.
 

lacesoutvic

Passed Driver's Ed
victor, nice to meet ya.

if the parts arrive in time before work, i'll assemble my intake tomorrow and take some uncensored pics, mess, dents, and all. 3 years of not cleaning the engine bay will be fun to detail.

since i generally like the eurojet kit, i'll likely just swap the muffler section when it comes to it. the vband location is really perfect to make it easy to put together and take apart, and it would be easy to swap out the resonator if i find that i prefer to go without it. i'd be happy to sell the muffler section to you when the time comes, but with everything i want to get done this year that's on the backend (literally). :sm3::sm3::sm3:

forgot to mention:
- hubcap delete +5hp. the steelies with candy white really isn't a bad look, i really like them on dhenry's supercharged mkv

anyone looking for the stock exhaust parts? mine is cut up so it would fit in my trunk, but i'm down to ship.

also if anyone has the helix smoked audi-style (not oem R reps) taillights available, hit me the heck up!!
 
Last edited:

lacesoutvic

Passed Driver's Ed
victor @ evolution tuning (or now, icengineworks) just got back to me... 2017 will truly be the year of power :)
public apology to the guys at JDL for asking about this just a couple days ago, but i would never complain about more 2.5 support.

also went ham and got used focal drop-in front speakers/tweeters on ebay.
i seriously can't buy anything else for at least a month.

had a pretty hideous idea to briefly swap the driver side headlight for the osram but leave the stock passenger side, install the jom grille (without the hood filled) for some uglygolf™. it'll be a strong look with the bent fender and cracked windshield.
 

lacesoutvic

Passed Driver's Ed
installed DIY intake last week. so easy a cripple could do it.
- leaned out the exhaust, since i have the USP pipe and catback which made it rich
- intake noise is noticeable with windows down
- no perceivable difference in engine noise inside
- subtle performance impact, post USP pipe/catback. reputable companies' dyno sheets seem to indicate intake can have a big impact, but since i did it after the hot side the effect wasn't as pronounced.
- engine cover weighs ~15 lbs!! delete it!
- cut up an old t-shirt and zip-tied around the breather hoses. the DIYers tend to cut off the connector, but i left them in case i need to reuse the engine cover for emissions. the clean solution is to connect a bung to the silicone coupler or aluminum elbow so they can recirculate to the intake, which i may do later on.
- may create an airbox later

ORDERED:
- headers + downpipe!!! spoke with victor today, he seems cool.
- tyrolsport deadset front collars
- tyrolsport master bracket
- h&r 26mm front sway
- focal front speakers/tweeters
- unibrace xb
- unibrace rb

MUST ORDER:
- 034 rubber mounts all around
- 034 dogbone
- whiteline walk
- h&r 24mm rear sway

PLAN OF ATTACK:
- dealer install, in order, all at once: motor/trans mounts, headers/dp, front sway, torque mount, deadset collars, walk, dogbone.
- may do the brake pump delete and master bracket at the same time, or DIY later
- tune and/or summer rubber + wheels. still debating 235/45/17 vs 245/40/17. would i still spin wheels in 1st and 2nd with 235s?
- bracing/audio/fix fender/headlights

the car is noticably faster and throttle much more responsive after clearing up the intake and exhaust. i'm dying to experience it with the drivetrain locked down, headers, tune, and grippy wheels. arbitrary goal is 200whp.

also dying to get these tails still... helix/depo -- if anyone has leads please let me know :'(
 
Last edited:

lacesoutvic

Passed Driver's Ed
yeah pretty stoked and pretty broke haha.

took a peek at my rotors (brakes have been mildly screeching for... too long) and let's just say they look pretty slotted. for performance. just nabbed some new OEM pads for a great price, that should hold me over until i upgrade the brakes.
got NJK PZFR5J-11 spark plugs on amazon, and getting an ATF kit from blauparts should save a decent bit when i go in for service soon. blau has a coupon for their kits on FB which was like a solid $20 off :)

also ordered:
-H&R 24mm rear sway
-034 2.5L mounts
-034 torque mount
-034 dogbone
-whiteline walk
-tails... still working out shipping, which is going to make these a lot pricier than expected, but always cheaper than OEM R tails.
-renewed my insurance policy. expensive month :'(
 
Last edited:

lacesoutvic

Passed Driver's Ed
anyone have input on stretch bolts for motor/trans mounts and subframe?

are the 2x ARP bolts in the tyrolsport deadset kit the same as the bolt described in this thread?
part number N90823501

should the subframe be dropped when installing the headers?
 
Last edited:

lacesoutvic

Passed Driver's Ed
andy @ ftbr garage in Rocky Hill CT is rad, definitely going back for more work.

spark plugs done
rotated tires
fender screw mod
front mudflaps on. rears didn't seem to mate up right, perhaps earlier mk6s had plastic fender liners that were closer to the tire...
034 pendulum mount installed

found that the pads and rotors had plenty of life all around but the rears weren't seated right, not sure why they were wearing so awfully with the lines on the pads/rotors. swapped the rotors so the wear would even out and set the pads with some late night highway stop and go. now they don't squeak which is nice.

bummer is that i got stoptech slotted rears and rear pads that fit the larger 282mm brakes so I'll be selling those... no point in keeping either since everything has good life and I'll just upgrade the rears eventually. think ecs will take the rotors back even though they had brake cleaner applied?

ended up running over a Philips screw somehow, good thing i didn't delete the spare...

picked up superpro roll control kit to go in with the subframe stuff at a great price today.

last thing i need to check out is the mount/subframe hardware and then i should be ready to install :)
headers should also be done soon!
might also be swapping my rear hatch with andy's tdi buyback to get the led brake light/spoiler.

good things coming.. and pictures when i stop being lazy.
:needpics:
 

lacesoutvic

Passed Driver's Ed
THEY CAME. gonna get some silicone sealant to make sure they don't get condensation before installing.



DIY intake





i might paint the aluminum elbow matte black today, but it's really windy so... maybe i'll just buy the paint and stuff.

also had my first transmission flush today, everything looked good and the fluid was still visibly dark red (not black). ~46-47k miles. magnets had no noticable metal, but a bit of sludge which the tech said was from the clutch -- normal wear.
depending on your driving, the recommended 50k interval may be fine. aggressive drivers may want to consider doing shorter intervals.
 

lacesoutvic

Passed Driver's Ed
unibrace UB is on, headers and downpipe have been completed and are on the way to CCP coatings for full ceramic high-temp coating.

tr ff10s are backordered and should be on the way late may/early june.

not sure what i can afford to have installed in may, but the headers should only be a couple hours labor at most and i hope to have the engine bay stuff (mounts, bracket, brake pump delete) done then.

the sways, superpro roll control, walk, torque mount, rb, xb will all probably go in june/july.
 

Vikingsloth1

Ready to race!

I'm over here in Virginia. I've got the Eurojet cat back as well, but I'm running the usp test pipe. Sitting on h&r sport cup kit with a malone tune
 

lacesoutvic

Passed Driver's Ed
looking good! can't wait to get my wheels in a month or so. wondering if my dented fender will make me rub... that should probably be fixed sooner rather than later.

CCP has the headers and pipe, should take a week or two.
 
Top