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EPC and P0302 (maybe P0299)

gtimk6spd

Ready to race!
I have had a P0302 come on here and there for most of this year. I can't figure out the issue for the life of me. I have tried new plugs and coils and that did nothing. Around 10k miles ago I had my intake manifold replaced and the VW dealer said there really wasn't any carbon buildup. I asked them to clean it anyway and they said ok, but didn't do it.

I had a P0299 code come up right as I installed my GFB DV+, although I'm not sure if this code was from before or after the install. Since then it has not come back (2-3 or so weeks of running the DV+).

Today I passed a car and my CEL flashed. That was a P0302 code. However I also got an EPC light on my dash and my car straight up sounded like a Subaru. I could still make full boost, but the car sure didn't feel as fast. I also did not want to push it just in case something serious is wrong.

Due to my current work and class scheduling I simply can't make it to a shop (unless I drop off my car and talk solely through phone calls).

Does anyone have any recommendations?

Below is a video showing I can still hit 15-18 psi and the terribly upset motor.

https://youtu.be/iZdRFova6QQ
 

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
The p0299 code indicates under boost so your previous DV was likely leaking as it's not come back.


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SnailPower

Autocross Newbie
Yeah, or the nightmare I've been involved with and it turned out to be a SHOT turbo. Check for that wastegate play under the turbo. It's probably the quickest diagnosis you can do to confirm the turbo is shot. At that point, if you don't mind upgrading additional parts, K04 will be cheaper than replacing with the OEM turbo.

It's my current situation that I'm dealing with...
 

gtimk6spd

Ready to race!
The p0299 code indicates under boost so your previous DV was likely leaking as it's not come back.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...6/P0302/000770

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That's good to know. Thank you for the link too. I'm going to have my brother ship out his VAGCOM so I can see if I can narrow it down more. I've never done any data logging so I'll have to look into that too.

Yeah, or the nightmare I've been involved with and it turned out to be a SHOT turbo. Check for that wastegate play under the turbo. It's probably the quickest diagnosis you can do to confirm the turbo is shot. At that point, if you don't mind upgrading additional parts, K04 will be cheaper than replacing with the OEM turbo.

It's my current situation that I'm dealing with...

Oh that doesn't sound good. I will let my car cool off and check for wastegate play in the morning.

If the turbo is shot I would go K04. I would love a K04 regardless, but I'm just not ready to make that purchase if I don't have to.
 

SnailPower

Autocross Newbie
That's good to know. Thank you for the link too. I'm going to have my brother ship out his VAGCOM so I can see if I can narrow it down more. I've never done any data logging so I'll have to look into that too.



Oh that doesn't sound good. I will let my car cool off and check for wastegate play in the morning.

If the turbo is shot I would go K04. I would love a K04 regardless, but I'm just not ready to make that purchase if I don't have to.

Dude, I hear you. I wasn't expecting to jump into a K04 at any time in the ownership of my car but my options weren't good either way. I think ultimately K04 made the most sense to me because I have a year left to have the car paid off and it's only at 38k miles.

This is one of the most expensive projects I've ever got into though that is for sure. VW/German ain't cheap! :rolleyes:
 

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
If it were me I would be focussed on the P0302 code as that is the one that is still present, most of the causes are reasonably cheap to fix compared to a new turbo! The P0299 code is no longer coming up and was hopefully from the old DV, you're still making boost so likely OK now, sure, check for play if you want but you're focusing on the wrong code by doing this, if you go looking for problems you'll find yourself throwing money at the car unnecessarily, you're making boost and the code has gone so forget about it!! Stick to the problem at hand, it's probably an injector or something, get it on VCDS and see what's happening and go from there, Don't worry about the turbo I doubt it's got a problem!


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Last edited:

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
Remember! You do not have this code showing any more,

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16683/P0299/000665

The only possible link with this code and your p0302 code is mentioned under the gasoline heading and refers to a faulty PCV (often a faulty PCV doesn't throw a code) I'm not sure there's a link in your case but still worth checking the PCV as they're cheap to replace, ( in fact just replace it now and hope for the best ), depending on how they fail the symptoms change, it is possible that it's the cause as they can cause misfires due to air leaks, the more I think about it I think this could be your issue,

Also see this video
https://youtu.be/hQEciqR1ST8




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Last edited:

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
On your video I see a hose I'm unfamiliar with coming from your PCV! What is it?


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gtimk6spd

Ready to race!
Dude, I hear you. I wasn't expecting to jump into a K04 at any time in the ownership of my car but my options weren't good either way. I think ultimately K04 made the most sense to me because I have a year left to have the car paid off and it's only at 38k miles.

This is one of the most expensive projects I've ever got into though that is for sure. VW/German ain't cheap! :rolleyes:

With that low of miles and almost being free of payments I think a K04 would be lovely. In your situation it makes sense since you have to replace your current turbo. Expensive and poor timing I am sure, but when it's over with you'll have a very fun car. I agree though, most expensive car project I've been on yet.

If it were me I would be focussed on the P0302 code as that is the one that is still present, most of the causes are reasonably cheap to fix compared to a new turbo! The P0299 code is no longer coming up and was hopefully from the old DV, you're still making boost so likely OK now, sure, check for play if you want but you're focusing on the wrong code by doing this, if you go looking for problems you'll find yourself throwing money at the car unnecessarily, you're making boost and the code has gone so forget about it!! Stick to the problem at hand, it's probably an injector or something, get it on VCDS and see what's happening and go from there, Don't worry about the turbo I doubt it's got a problem!


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Very good point. The P0302 has been around longer and is much more consistent. I didn't get a chance to check my turbo due to recovering a little bit and staying inside. I'll check either way since it'll be simple enough. I think you're right in saying it's likely not shot if I am still making full boost. I'll have a VCDS coming soon to work with. I hope to get some more insight then. I hope it's not an injector in a way, but at the same time I do. Just so I know what the problem is and how to finally fix it.

Remember! You do not have this code showing any more,

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16683/P0299/000665

The only possible link with this code and your p0302 code is mentioned under the gasoline heading and refers to a faulty PCV (often a faulty PCV doesn't throw a code) I'm not sure there's a link in your case but still worth checking the PCV as they're cheap to replace, ( in fact just replace it now and hope for the best ), depending on how they fail the symptoms change, it is possible that it's the cause as they can cause misfires due to air leaks, the more I think about it I think this could be your issue,

Also see this video
https://youtu.be/hQEciqR1ST8




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I have a relatively new PCV since my old one did fail. I think that was around 35-40k miles and I am now at 50k. I got a new rear main seal put in at the same time. I can check the PCV though when I get out to check on my turbo (which, like you said, is likely still good). If I can't tell that it's good or not I'll probably just throw on a new one. It's $100ish but still significantly cheaper than a new injector.

On your video I see a hose I'm unfamiliar with coming from your PCV! What is it?


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That goes to the catch can :)
 

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
I have a relatively new PCV since my old one did fail. I think that was around 35-40k miles and I am now at 50k. I got a new rear main seal put in at the same time. [/QUOTE]


I had the newest revision genuine PCV fitted 4 months ago (around 3000 miles), believe it or not it is now shot! This time it's taken the rear main with it!!
It's booked in for repair this week, I'm still able to drive the car as long as I check the oil daily but it still pulls like a train for me so the misfire may or may not be connected in your case, even with a failed PCV and quite heavily leaking rear main I have no codes so diagnoses can prove to be difficult at times with the PCV! It's worth checking though even only to eliminate it.


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gtimk6spd

Ready to race!
I had the newest revision genuine PCV fitted 4 months ago (around 3000 miles), believe it or not it is now shot! This time it's taken the rear main with it!!
It's booked in for repair this week, I'm still able to drive the car as long as I check the oil daily but it still pulls like a train for me so the misfire may or may not be connected in your case, even with a failed PCV and quite heavily leaking rear main I have no codes so diagnoses can prove to be difficult at times with the PCV! It's worth checking though even only to eliminate it.


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No kidding. That's something I need to check then. I have some upgraded rear main seal but I don't remember what it's called. I definitely don't want to have to pay to drop everything again to get another installed.

Yeah my car still pulls but it doesn't do so well in the quarter mile like other Stage 2 cars do. This most recently visit I ran something like a 14.5 at 100 mph. I know the drag strip I go to is basically unprepped for test and tune, but still. I should be lower 14s or high 13s. I've got my shifting issues sorted out and my launches are about as good as they're going to be for that strip.

Thanks for the tips though. I'll check the spots mentioned in the video you linked when I get my PCV pulled off.
 

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
One of the easiest ways to check for a faulty PCV is to pull the dip stick or remove the oil fill cap while the car is running, if the car starts running rough then the PCV is likely okay, if the idle stays the same then it's shot, but this would probably not be a good method for you as the car's already running rough.


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gtimk6spd

Ready to race!
One of the easiest ways to check for a faulty PCV is to pull the dip stick or remove the oil fill cap while the car is running, if the car starts running rough then the PCV is likely okay, if the idle stays the same then it's shot, but this would probably not be a good method for you as the car's already running rough.


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I really should have updated running rough. After restarting the car it is back to running "fine." There is still a P0302 that shows up. I have not driven the car hard though just in case it gets that bad again. So I think this test will be a good indicator after all. I'll start with that and then pull the PCV off and check it out.
 

gtimk6spd

Ready to race!
I checked and the car idles the same with or without the cap removed. I can definitely feel air coming out of the oil fill when the cap is removed. You can also see the cap bounce around when sitting on top and not screwed in. Not sure if that's normal because I've never tried when I had a good PCV lol. The end of the video is just the sound from the exhaust with and without the cap in place to show there's no difference in sound there either. Time to get a new PCV though. I just read about the BSH plate too and am going to do some more research to see if it's worth it with a new PCV install.

https://youtu.be/gNBcxnml7dU

When starting the car I did notice https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejaO2L2RAH0&t=0s noise for about 5 seconds before it went away.

About once every month or two my car will start up and drive like it's making much smoother and better power. I'm not sure if that's related to this either.
 
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