Kenwood DNX525DAB replacing RNS510

Has anyone ever replaced their RNS510 with a Kenwood DNX525DAB?

I am thinking about replacing my 510 as I want to finish my ICE install, however there are a few questions I want to know before I take the plunge.

My MK6 is the Match model. It came with the RNS 510, MFSW bluetooth and highline MFD as standard. What I want to know is what will happen to the following when I change it over:

1. Will I keep full MFSW functionality?
2. Will I have full MFD functionality?
3. Will I still be able to use the MDI port in my armrest or is there another adaptor/harness I can purchase alongside?
4. Will I be restricted to entering addresses, watching videos, etc. whilst driving? (This last one is for the benefit of my family and not for me to do while I am driving)
5. Will I still be able to operate the bluetooth phone dialling function through the MFD via the MFSW?

I have searched everywhere for information, however I can only seem to find those who have (for example) an RCD and are in 2 minds about this or the RNS.

I can tell you that I hate the RNS - With the only reason being it has no outputs for subs, etc. and if I want to keep this for the ICE install, it will run me hundreds of £s purchasing processors, etc.

I have a sub installed on it at the moment with a LOC and after about a minute or so of locking the car, I get a horrible 8-15 second of raw bass being played. It makes my car sound like it is about to blow up!:iono:

I have fitted a Kenwood dnx (different model) in a previous car. It was good but needed a third part interface from the US for steering wheel. Check the Kenwood literature, they may have an option for your Golf. If not, youcan look at PAC for an interface. http://www.pac-audio.com/SWI/

The on the move stuff will depend on the Kenwood, so check the manual on that.

You wont be able to use MDI itself without major work, but could route the Kenwood's harness to the same position. You'll also likely lose the MFD (not sure on this as Kenwood or others may have something that works now) and climate display on the RNS510.

I have a Golf now and fitted an RNS510. I have it connected through a Bit Ten to a fully active system. On balance I prefer this option due to the OEM integration. The Kenwood option could be made to work, but that's not the way i'd go if you want my opinion.

Dont take this the wrong way, but some of your questions suggest a lack of experience in this stuff. If you want a project and to learn, go for it. If you want the easiest route that will work well, go something like a Bit Ten. If you're not into a project then going either route, i'd suggest going to an installer. Neither route is simple if learning for the first time. Mine has taken a huge amount of work, but i enjoy that stuff and have some experience.

The solution i have is now very good, but there are still some turn on/off issues. Not as you describe, but because the Golf turns power on and off to various circuits at different times (e.g. Unlocking, key in ignition, started, off, delayed off) it can be difficult to find a good switched power for the bit ten/amps. Mine is currently hooked to boot 12v socket, but i have to manually turn on through the interface's controller sometimes. May still be able to tweak, but have not gotten round to it. No biggie. No bumps or thumps or bass noise however.

Stuart

stuartb said:

I have fitted a Kenwood dnx (different model) in a previous car. It was good but needed a third part interface from the US for steering wheel. Check the Kenwood literature, they may have an option for your Golf. If not, youcan look at PAC for an interface. http://www.pac-audio.com/SWI/

The on the move stuff will depend on the Kenwood, so check the manual on that.

You wont be able to use MDI itself without major work, but could route the Kenwood's harness to the same position. You'll also likely lose the MFD (not sure on this as Kenwood or others may have something that works now) and climate display on the RNS510.

I have a Golf now and fitted an RNS510. I have it connected through a Bit Ten to a fully active system. On balance I prefer this option due to the OEM integration. The Kenwood option could be made to work, but that's not the way i'd go if you want my opinion.

Dont take this the wrong way, but some of your questions suggest a lack of experience in this stuff. If you want a project and to learn, go for it. If you want the easiest route that will work well, go something like a Bit Ten. If you're not into a project then going either route, i'd suggest going to an installer. Neither route is simple if learning for the first time. Mine has taken a huge amount of work, but i enjoy that stuff and have some experience.

The solution i have is now very good, but there are still some turn on/off issues. Not as you describe, but because the Golf turns power on and off to various circuits at different times (e.g. Unlocking, key in ignition, started, off, delayed off) it can be difficult to find a good switched power for the bit ten/amps. Mine is currently hooked to boot 12v socket, but i have to manually turn on through the interface's controller sometimes. May still be able to tweak, but have not gotten round to it. No biggie. No bumps or thumps or bass noise however.

Stuart

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Stuart.

Not a retaliation, but I am far from inexperienced. I have just never come across this before being that it is my first VW. I have never gone down the route of installing processors and such as I have always found that the setups I do suffice to a certain degree when the OEM headunit and speakers have been upgraded and a sub and amp added in addition.

I simply don't want to rip out something that works well (albeit just not with the sub setup) to then go and install something which in fact will provide less features, hence the type of questions I am asking (which I didn't think were as "noob" as you have suggested.

The raw bass that I am currently experiencing is not due to an inexperienced install. All of my wiring is more than capable of handling what I have and my ground is securely earthed to an unpainted section of the chassis. The real issue lies within the RNS itself, or the Control Module for it.

The amp I own is auto sensing so I am not required to attached a remote wire. With that being said - it came to my attention that the RNS did not "entirely" switch off when i take the key out of the ignition - thus leaving the amplifier to stay on through the signal it is still receiving via the RCAs.

Now this part is random - it can take anything from 15 seconds right up to about 20 minutes for the RNS to power down. Even though it looks like it has (screen turns off, blah, blah) it is in fact still going. I believe this is what keeps the headunit from having to boot up from the start rather than the hibernate mode (when you get in and it is completely ready to be used...maps and all). It is when the device shuts itself off completely when I get the nasty feedback, which last for about 7-11 seconds (changes randomly also).

So my above questions are in fact me being cautious rather than doing what I normally do (being an idiot) and buy stuff that is either incompatible/not required/not doing what I want it to do and end up costing me ££££.