Yeah, I have cold weather conditions part of the year here, but I really don't want to get a cc, only to have to swap it out. Not laziness, just simply don't think I should have to use something 500.00 worth for 9 months and then have to switch to something that will need replacement after 20 or 25k miles that's another 150.00
Yeah, I have cold weather conditions part of the year here, but I really don't want to get a cc, only to have to swap it out. Not laziness, just simply don't think I should have to use something 500.00 worth for 9 months and then have to switch to something that will need replacement after 20 or 25k miles that's another 150.00
The way around it is to empty it every few days. When my car was still driven in winter I ran a catch can in chicago year round. Just have to empty it often and it'll be fine.
I had my apr one since march I think. Probably wasn't cold enough for it to freeze. Hell, my newsouth boost tap froze once, but thats skinny wire. Maybe its the can itself or the drain line?
My APR one somehow froze when I had it and the car ran very terribly. I emptied it often as well. I wonder if what was left over in the lines and the baffles in the can froze with the sub zero temps? Just took it off to avoid it happening again.
Im wondering with the way the apr one works, if you are worried about freezing, can you just omit the can and run the long line from the intake track to the pcv directly? I know it defeats the purpose of the can, but we are just talking about freeze conditions here
Im wondering with the way the apr one works, if you are worried about freezing, can you just omit the can and run the long line from the intake track to the pcv directly? I know it defeats the purpose of the can, but we are just talking about freeze conditions here
The route is a little different. It wouldn't be filtered by the pcv I guess coming off the front port instead of the rear.
Edit, nvm that's probably bad for the turbo
