Anyone replace own clutch?

Went stage two so now I'm looking to do my clutch. Didn't know if it'd be worth doing myself or just paying to have it done for me. Anyone else done it theirselves? Pointers, suggestions & tricks appreciated! Been looking into FX300/FX350 or the southbend 2 daily silent. I read the other post about someone doing this at home. Was just wondering if there was anything else besides to drop subframe, get new bolts, get alignment tool and use air tools.

You don't need to drop the subframe. At all. I've done the job 5-6 times and never touched it. Taking the drivers side axle out makes it easier as it's out of the way. And I also take both output "cups" out to clear the tab on the motor. You can manage to get the trans out without removing these, but getting it back in with them on is quite impossible. The only new bolts you NEED are for the flywheel and pressure plate. And your clutch should come with an alignment tool. If you work fast and have all the right tools it can be done in a little over three hours.

not too hard to do but not a fun job. Take a day or two and have a friend come over to help

Yeah, it's a shit job. If you pull the axle flanges off, make sure you drain the fluid first, otherwise you'll end up with a river of trans fluild down your arm.

Do make sure there is thread locker on any fw and pressure plate bolts, and that they are properly torqued

Do not force the trans input shaft into the clutch disc when reinstalling, and also don't just let it hang without bolts, otherwise the disc will get bent. You'll have to jiggle it around a bit to get the splines to line up, but like I said, don't force it

Bench bleed the slave cylinder with fluid so it's partially full, then reconnect the line right before you mate it back to the engine block (or pressure plate will push fluid out of open end of slave cyl when you push it on)

When you bleed the system after reinstallation, make sure the brake / clutch fluid reservoir is full up to the top pretty much with fluid. The inlet for the clutch side is right up at the top, so if the level drops while bleeding it, you will suck in air. The brakes feed from the bottom

Go to harbor freight, and use a 20 or 25% off coupon, and buy an engine support bar. You'll need it

Oh, and when you reinstall, make sure the axle bolts into the flanges on the tranny are torqued down properly. I saw one where someone forgot to tighten one bolt, and it fell out, which wouldn't be the end of the world, except the c shaped washer things they have under the bolts can swing out and go all ginsu 2000 on your transmission case, and slice a hole

Wow. Lol that's a handful. Anyone wanna come stay a weekend with me and help? Haha

Anyone know the exact torque specs everything needs to be?

When I bought the rsr, each built was package with a label that read out the torque specs

butchered by autocorrecr

Audi tech by trade and did this in about 6-7 hours, time split between the end of one day and the morning of the other. First FWD trans I removed in a newer chassis and it wasn't THAT bad. I got the trans out without removing the subframe, but getting in back in is a PITA without a trans jack that can hold the bottom of the trans.

I didn't even remove the axles, just unbolted them from the trans and moved them aside. I used an engine support bar, and swung the motor as far forward as the rad and downpipe would let me. I removed the fans to give me some more room - and for the 7 minutes it takes to remove them its a big help.

Not a job for beginners.

I did mine in a full day.. Wasn't so bad!

I dropped the subframe and had no help. If I were to do it again I would have a second set of hands when attempting to re-install the transmission.

If I had to do it again I could do it in 6 hours or less with just jack stands and a jack!

Good luck!

Thanks guys! I'm gonna call around and get estimates then make my final decisions.