I was just done with my 50k service yesterday and I was told my rear shocks were leaking. Dealer quoted $800 to $900 for parts, labor and 4 wheel alignment. I did not find to look at them. Anyway, I was thinking about replacing them myself. I was looking at stock Sach's shocks, but I need suggestions for an upgrade (note: I am broke :iono:, so I am looking for something more economical). I am just looking at replacing the shocks but I am planning on using the same lock nuts, coil springs and shock mounts. Also, I am just planning on replacing the rear shocks only and at this moment I am not looking to lower my suspension or anything as such. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
6
Rear Shock Absorber Replacement
- Thread starter k3sh4v
- Start date
Post up a WTB thread in the classifieds. There are probably tons of people looking to offload their stock suspension.
Or you can get brand new ones for anywhere from 50 to 100 a piece here:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Suspension/Shocks/Rear/
They are stupid easy to change. 3 bolts to get them out, swap shock mounts (one nut), and put back in.
Or you can get brand new ones for anywhere from 50 to 100 a piece here:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Suspension/Shocks/Rear/
They are stupid easy to change. 3 bolts to get them out, swap shock mounts (one nut), and put back in.
I do not need a spring compressor right. I did not look at the rear suspension design yet.
davserbic
Ready to race!
No, you don't need a spring compressor for the rears. The spring is separate from the shock in the rear. Its pretty straight forward. Here are two DIYs that helped me tremendously.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4330188-Koni-Coilover-Install-DIY
http://www.zoomsquared.com/2012/hr-street-performance-coilovers-install
Best of luck!
Thanks for the massive help
Thanks for the suggestion. I am not planning on taking the springs out and lowering them.
I was looking at the heavy duty shock from Bilstein, and also the Koni Yellow/Orange sport shock. Any feedback about them is appreciated.
davserbic
Ready to race!
Of course! Though you might want to potentially take a second opinion or a look for yourself. If you're on stock suspension with stock wheels, your shocks should probably be fine. Its fairly difficult to blow the shocks. If you remember potentially hitting some curbs or going into some crazy potholes, you might have blown the shocks.
Just a thought.
Better to know for yourself rather than taking the mechanics word for it.
Of course! Though you might want to potentially take a second opinion or a look for yourself. If you're on stock suspension with stock wheels, your shocks should probably be fine. Its fairly difficult to blow the shocks. If you remember potentially hitting some curbs or going into some crazy potholes, you might have blown the shocks.
Just a thought.
Better to know for yourself rather than taking the mechanics word for it.
I am going to take a look for myself over the weekend. The bumpy roads in Michigan and with the way I rush to work everyday, I do not deny that I hit a few potholes occasionally no matter how much I try to avoid them. I have noticed that the read end of the car was bouncing more than once when I hit a bump on a few occasions but I never really sat in the rear seat to notice the real problem. The dealers comments only made my nightmarish dream come true.
However, the price they quoted was ridiculous for just replacing the shocks. I was also wondering whether or not I need to do a 4 wheel alignment after I replace the shocks, as I am not detaching the control arm or taking the springs out.
davserbic
Ready to race!
If you're bouncing -- you're blown. Confirmed.
I don't think you'll need an alignment if your height is remaining the same.
Height is remaining the same, I just noticed the bounce a couple of times fairly recently. I think its blown too but I want to take a look to assess the damage and to make sure nothing else has damaged and its only the leaky shocks that need replacement.
davserbic
Ready to race!
Found this guide on ECS Tuning -- which is what I used on my last install. Specified inside it states to torque top bolts to 50 Nm+45 degrees (37 Ft-lbs+45 degrees)
http://bit.ly/1UnrT0E (page 28)
Wow! Thanks for that. It also says to torque the bottom bolt to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs). I have all the information I need. I just need the new shocks now :happyanim: