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master water/meth discussion thread

Sauce118

Ready to race!
Leave your 50/50 mix for now. If you haven't touched your pump you're at 165psi, with your start on MPS, trigger point set (certain psi) and P/I-R set 100% IDC you can only increase GAIN or start your trigger point earlier depending on where it's set now. On my K04 100 octane file, boost ramped up after 4K RPM due to the tune, I found that I was already in the teens in terms of boost before timing really ramped up. I set my trigger to start at around 8psi to start some cooling then increased GAIN to provide more progressive flow to cover any timing correction. I would dial in your start to a boost level you won't hit driving normally around town (8-10psi), then from that point GAIN will control the progressive increase in flow (technically starting the flow curve earlier or later). After you're happy with the start/trigger point, log again then increase GAIN slightly and log again. Continue increasing GAIN until it's covered. Don't touch your mix until you fully play with the range of settings on the HFS-4.

Awesome... That's exactly the information I was looking for! Thanks man... I'm heading out to do some logging after work in 30 mins.. I'm gonna try and get a few good runs and adjustments in.. Ill report back.
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
OKAY. so I fully understand what HYDE said in the previous post. BUTTTTT my timing pull is so non-consistant that I cannot figure out if I want a higher progression to come on early or later in the curve. also sometimes like #3 cyl is -7 and #1 is 0. then all of a sudden it will change. I am having a hard time predicting it. I did however turn the GAIN almost all the way up and the SC down a little to reflect the increase in progression. It seemed (to me atleast) that it was almost too much fluid cuz I pulled over after doing the log run and my engine sputtered for a minute. I rev'd up a bit and it went away. I could be completely wrong ( I have like zero experience w/ this) but it seems to me that a more potent mixture w/ trigger @ 9psi and gain slightly above 12 o clock, would do me better than flooding w/ the 50/50 mix I have in now. Thoughts??? Advice how to predict the timing pull at all? Thanks in advance for all the help. I know what its like when someone keeps asking dumba$$ questions and how much of a pain it can be to keep answering them.

I also saw in the manual somewhere (don't have it on me) that if you are running more than a certain number of jets (4 I think) that a hard setting on the controller needed to be changed. I will have to re-read it. I was wondering since I am running 5 (one to the TB) if this would be applicable? It also had something to do with the amt being sprayed as well.
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
OKAY. so I fully understand what HYDE said in the previous post. BUTTTTT my timing pull is so non-consistant that I cannot figure out if I want a higher progression to come on early or later in the curve. also sometimes like #3 cyl is -7 and #1 is 0. then all of a sudden it will change. I am having a hard time predicting it. I did however turn the GAIN almost all the way up and the SC down a little to reflect the increase in progression. It seemed (to me atleast) that it was almost too much fluid cuz I pulled over after doing the log run and my engine sputtered for a minute. I rev'd up a bit and it went away. I could be completely wrong ( I have like zero experience w/ this) but it seems to me that a more potent mixture w/ trigger @ 9psi and gain slightly above 12 o clock, would do me better than flooding w/ the 50/50 mix I have in now. Thoughts??? Advice how to predict the timing pull at all? Thanks in advance for all the help. I know what its like when someone keeps asking dumba$$ questions and how much of a pain it can be to keep answering them.

I also saw in the manual somewhere (don't have it on me) that if you are running more than a certain number of jets (4 I think) that a hard setting on the controller needed to be changed. I will have to re-read it. I was wondering since I am running 5 (one to the TB) if this would be applicable? It also had something to do with the amt being sprayed as well.

Okay well I found out that the makeshift hose is temporarily using (fuel/alcohols rated line) popped off cylinder #4 EEEEEEK!!!! No damage noted. No wonder my flow increased and my timing pull was jacked. After a temp ghetto repair I got all the cylinders to be within a .5* of each other till I hit 5k then they go sparatic again?
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
I also saw in the manual somewhere (don't have it on me) that if you are running more than a certain number of jets (4 I think) that a hard setting on the controller needed to be changed. I will have to re-read it. I was wondering since I am running 5 (one to the TB) if this would be applicable? It also had something to do with the amt being sprayed as well.

Here is what the manual says...
" there is no need to modify the the board if you intend to run 2 jets flowing within the region of map2 (up to 1000cc)However if you are running three or more jets you need to modify the circuit board by soldering pads 1 and 2"

Does my board require modification based off what the manual says? Richard said the controller came set for mk6 but how do they know how many jets I'm planning on running. Anyone have a clue?
 

HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
you will not need to modify that board, leave it alone you will have plenty of flow with 5 x 0.6mm jets. Pump pressure at 165psi, TRIG and GAIN set correctly will cover a 100 octane file on IHI/K03 or K04. If you max GAIN out and still have CF, we can change your mix.
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
you will not need to modify that board, leave it alone you will have plenty of flow with 5 x 0.6mm jets. Pump pressure at 165psi, TRIG and GAIN set correctly will cover a 100 octane file on IHI/K03 or K04. If you max GAIN out and still have CF, we can change your mix.

Okay. Sounds Good. I got the numbers down a little bit from logging and playing with it last night. I will continue to do so tonight after work too. Ill report back. Hyde, Thanks for clarifying about modding the board.
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
I'm gonna have to pass on logging after work. One of my DP jet adapters would not get "tight" it keeps clicking like it's stripped a bit. I JB Welded it a little and the cure time is 24 hours so I'll be out of the boost till then.
 

_Dejan_

Passed Driver's Ed
Here is little update on my WMI DPI on stock manifold...

Im glue adapters into manifold:



And Intake Manifold prepared for install(Jets mounted and connected):





Manifold is already installed in car and fit perfect without any issue... Also TTS engine cover fit normaly without any issues...
I will upload pictures of installed manifold in next days...
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
Nice Man!! Looks Good! That's a LOT of JB Weld, But you can barely tell w it painted over
 

DaveGLI

Ready to race!
I'm probably one of the only GLI's in here but.... anybody found a good way to mount a Snow 2.5g tank in the trunk of a GLI?
 

_Dejan_

Passed Driver's Ed
I use primary windshield washer fluid reservoir. My can contain around 4 litres of mixed fluid and use 40% mix bio-ethanol/distiled water mix(I mesaure percentage of alcohol in mix with hydrometer)...
 
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