COBB tuning?!

SirClimax said:

I am wondering the same thing

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It still says v103 so I would imagine it's the same or very similar to the beta you are running. Worst case scenario you can flash it and if you don't like how it's running you could always flash back to the beta.

I'm only on stage 1+ stock MAF right now. I wasn't able to get my dp installed while it was still warm out so I will be waiting until spring to go stage two unless we get a really nice weekend here in Ohio before then

I am a long time lurker on here but wanted to share my experience with the Cobb on my MK6. I installed the AP approx. 3 month ago. I only had a aftermarket catback exhaust. Rest of the car was bone stock. Initially I ran the Stage 1 93 file with zero problems. Then switched to the high boost after 2 weeks. Still flawless. Installed the Cobb SF intake last month and went to the Stage 1+ file. Still have had zero issues. (other than the intake whistle which isnt really a problem just an annoyance)

I am still under extended warranty for 2 years so I doubt I will even go to Stage 2 and definitely will not go past that. I just wanted some extra power on my daily commute...which I got. I honestly don't expect to keep this car more than another 2 years. So a major factor of my decision to go with Cobb over APR or Uni is that I can recover some of the money spent on tuning.

I know I am in the minority here but I really don't care about the extra power that the other tuners are offering over the Cobb OTS tunes. The fact that GIAC has a file called the clutch buster is exactly what I didnt want. I am not interested in having issues with the transmission due to too much torque, etc. So the more conservative tunes with Cobb is to my liking.

I love that I did not have to go to a shop/dealer for the initial tune and especially for the subsequent file changes. Also love that fact I can uninstall it and flash back to stock before taking the car for any warranty work.

One last thing that I have not seen anyone else mention was the financing I received with Cobb. Paying for the AP over 6 months with 0% financing really made it a no brainer for me compared to the $800 out of pocket I was quoted for APR.

I hope those on the fence about using this on your car found some of this helpful. I could not be happier with the product so far.

Great and grand wise ones please help! I just got the Cobb intake installed and I'm noticing some weirdness with my idle RPM's. It seems to bounce around a bit - most typically when I've come to a stop. it will hover (or hang) around 1.3k then settle back round 800ish after a little bit. Occasionally it will bounce up to just about 2-2.2k before settling back down. I originally though it was a boost leak issue so I went back over the install and made sure everything was done up correctly.
I've searched around the forums and can't really find anything that fits what i'm seeing. I don't know it's helpful but here is the log from the AP (using the stage 2 91 file).

side note: Could my cheep twintercooler be causing the issue?

So i bought the Cobb accessport about last month, blew my first coil pack replaced it, changed the spark plugs as well with the Bosch double platinums due to the fact i was getting knocks in all cylinders -1.25. Now for some reason i keep getting a random knock in cylinder 4 (-3) then it goes away. Kinda new to all this but currently I'm using the OTS stock MAF map stage 2 with a catless TBE from CTS Turbo. Maybe a pro tune is the way to go? http://www.datazap.me/u/srgtbuck/stage-2-stock-maf-file?log=0&data=4-19 Current log from test i did today.

mophisto said:

Great and grand wise ones please help! I just got the Cobb intake installed and I'm noticing some weirdness with my idle RPM's. It seems to bounce around a bit - most typically when I've come to a stop. it will hover (or hang) around 1.3k then settle back round 800ish after a little bit. Occasionally it will bounce up to just about 2-2.2k before settling back down. I originally though it was a boost leak issue so I went back over the install and made sure everything was done up correctly.
I've searched around the forums and can't really find anything that fits what i'm seeing. I don't know it's helpful but here is the log from the AP (using the stage 2 91 file).

side note: Could my cheep twintercooler be causing the issue?

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This happened to me awhile back. I had the MAF angled differently than stock (not a COBB intake) and I think that may have had something to do with it. I also flashed the car again and it took care of the problem. Try re-flashing it and see if it goes away. Possible to happen from a dirty MAF as well from what I've heard.

OhioMK6 said:

This happened to me awhile back. I had the MAF angled differently than stock (not a COBB intake) and I think that may have had something to do with it. I also flashed the car again and it took care of the problem. Try re-flashing it and see if it goes away. Possible to happen from a dirty MAF as well from what I've heard.

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I hit it with some MAF cleaner over the weekend. That didn't seem to help, However, I took the cover off the filter tray thing and that seems to have cleaned up the issue. Maybe. we'll see.

How much knock retard is too much? I didn't find anything in this thread from searching. On the Stage 1 v103 I have not seen any knock, so I decided I could run the high boost. I have gauges setup to monitor all 4 cylinders and once in a while I will get -3 knock on 1 or 2 cylinders. Should I fall back to the non high boost file or is -3 here and there OK?

I plan to get a downpipe within the next couple of months and then get a custom tune.

Fantom1107 said:

How much knock retard is too much? I didn't find anything in this thread from searching. On the Stage 1 v103 I have not seen any knock, so I decided I could run the high boost. I have gauges setup to monitor all 4 cylinders and once in a while I will get -3 knock on 1 or 2 cylinders. Should I fall back to the non high boost file or is -3 here and there OK?

I plan to get a downpipe within the next couple of months and then get a custom tune.

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I believe twisted tunes stated that -3 and below is okay as long as it isn't happening at specific instances/all the time. I'm running stage 2 and i get one random -3 knock in cylinder 4 at random rpm's and then it disappears.

Anyone have an idea if I can pass NJ inspection while tuned? Should I go back to the COBB stock map or completely remove the tune all together and re flash after the inspection?


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Enneking - I'm by no means an expert at anything, but I'm fairly certain that NGK spark plugs are what most members here use, so perhaps switching to those may cure your random knock.
Feel free to take my advice with a nice big grain of salt, it is merely my humble opinion and attempt to help a fellow dubber.

Have a great day and good luck.

Enneking said:

I believe twisted tunes stated that -3 and below is okay as long as it isn't happening at specific instances/all the time. I'm running stage 2 and i get one random -3 knock in cylinder 4 at random rpm's and then it disappears.

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I've seen -3 in stock logs all the time. It's normal. I'd go so far and to say anything less than -5 is fine as long as it's not occurring all the time. Anything over that, you want to start making some changes.

focusfuri75 said:

Enneking - I'm by no means an expert at anything, but I'm fairly certain that NGK spark plugs are what most members here use, so perhaps switching to those may cure your random knock.
Feel free to take my advice with a nice big grain of salt, it is merely my humble opinion and attempt to help a fellow dubber.

Have a great day and good luck.

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Hey any advice helps, I am newer to tuning and any advice is much appreciated. thanks!
as for NGK's i will buy some and put the logs up and see what the results are.

Enneking said:

Hey any advice helps, I am newer to tuning and any advice is much appreciated. thanks!
as for NGK's i will buy some and put the logs up and see what the results are.

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I have NGKs with R8 coilpacks, so it may not be your spark plugs.

gonzo511 said:

Anyone have an idea if I can pass NJ inspection while tuned? Should I go back to the COBB stock map or completely remove the tune all together and re flash after the inspection?


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You can pass NJ inspection without headlights installed in your car. Pretty sure you'll be ok. They only run exhaust test if you have an engine light, no?

wudini said:

You can pass NJ inspection without headlights installed in your car. Pretty sure you'll be ok. They only run exhaust test if you have an engine light, no?

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I just moved to NJ from an inspection-free state. I haven't done the inspection myself yet, but have done some reading on what to expect. They just plug in the computer to check the emissions systems.

Unfortunately, they check for readiness of all emissions systems. Stage 2 tunes typically disable rear 02 readiness so you don't get a CEL from your downpipe.

So far I've heard of two options:
1) reinstall stock downpipe and flash back to stock
2) install rear 02 spacer and reflash to stage 1

Goingnowherefast said:

I've seen -3 in stock logs all the time. It's normal. I'd go so far and to say anything less than -5 is fine as long as it's not occurring all the time. Anything over that, you want to start making some changes.

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Same here, I got some occasional -2.25 pull when it's hot out on when I was Eurodyne stage 1.