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Old 03-07-2013, 08:47 PM   #15
Blaylock1988
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Whatever speakers you get make sure you put an external amp on them. The stock radio cannot put enough power to make them sound good. The stick radio probably puts out 15 watts rms per channel. Most aftermarket speakers need 30 to 50 watts rms to sound clean.
Yes. From what Kinetic was saying, it sounds like he will want speakers that can run 100W RMS per door and at least 500W RMS 12" sub in a ported box. Also, for a given sub, ported boxes always have to be a lot larger than their sealed counterparts.

EDIT: LOTS of sound deadening too, your car will rattle like hell. I have a 500W RMS sub and it already rattles all sorts of things when I run it at about 30% volume.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:03 PM   #16
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Damn. 100 watt rms door speakers. I hope the IRS came thru for this guy this year. When I sold electronics we had some focal speakers for 1k a pair. I like sealed boxes because it makes rock music sound cleaner and tighter. Vented box make bass too loud. I guess it's good for hip hop. I had a 02 gti that was maxed out with top of the line everything. I won about 5k in audio equipment amps powering everything. No matter how loud I turned it up it would not distort.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:32 PM   #17
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Damn. 100 watt rms door speakers. I hope the IRS came thru for this guy this year. When I sold electronics we had some focal speakers for 1k a pair. I like sealed boxes because it makes rock music sound cleaner and tighter. Vented box make bass too loud. I guess it's good for hip hop. I had a 02 gti that was maxed out with top of the line everything. I won about 5k in audio equipment amps powering everything. No matter how loud I turned it up it would not distort.
He can get some Polk Audio or Type-R components that are 100W RMS for around $150 a set or so.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:15 PM   #18
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He can get some Polk Audio or Type-R components that are 100W RMS for around $150 a set or so.
I would not trust those speakers with a high end amp at 100 watts rms. Entry level speakers manufacture like to put a high wattage rating on their entry level products. Focal has a component set for 2000 that are rated at 80 watts rms. it's all advertising.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:28 PM   #19
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I would not trust those speakers with a high end amp at 100 watts rms. Entry level speakers manufacture like to put a high wattage rating on their entry level products. Focal has a component set for 2000 that are rated at 80 watts rms. it's all advertising.
I have read up, worked with, and listened to both of the brands I mentioned and they sound great cranked up with no distortion. Sure its not crazy expensive top of the line, but polk and alpine are the top of the entry to amateur level (depending on the series). Most of the other brands I definitely agree with you though. I have an Alpine Type-R 10" sub and it is fantastic. Spending 2 Grand on a pair of speakers just blows my mind, it would be the biggest waste to me, but I don't do SPL competitions. I consider myself an "audiophile lite".
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:29 PM   #20
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Woo boy thanks for the replies guys/gals. I did not get so much work done today because I was practicing my google fu on some 10" subwoofers/amps/box specs. I might go with a 10W7AE or similar if I can find one for the right price. I am just concerned that it will be too much. JL also has the 8W7AE. It seems most guys with 8" subs have multiple but I dont need that.

I want/need bass so tight that every whore on the block wants to sit in my car to repair their snatch.

The question is will I notice the difference in SQ (with a proper designed box for whatever I go with) between a $500 sub and a $200 sub? Probably a dumb question but my experience with audio is limited to high end headphones and tube amps.

SQ is the main thing I am looking for, not SPL. Tight, punchy, high SQ, that can keep up with the most brutal drum breakdowns.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:43 PM   #21
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Woo boy thanks for the replies guys/gals. I did not get so much work done today because I was practicing my google fu on some 10" subwoofers/amps/box specs. I might go with a 10W7AE or similar if I can find one for the right price. I am just concerned that it will be too much. JL also has the 8W7AE. It seems most guys with 8" subs have multiple but I dont need that.

I want/need bass so tight that every whore on the block wants to sit in my car to repair their snatch.

The question is will I notice the difference in SQ (with a proper designed box for whatever I go with) between a $500 sub and a $200 sub? Probably a dumb question but my experience with audio is limited to high end headphones and tube amps.

SQ is the main thing I am looking for, not SPL. Tight, punchy, high SQ, that can keep up with the most brutal drum breakdowns.
Ok so you will want a sealed sub. JL has some great products too, very good subs. A friend of mine had a very old JL 12" and it lasted him like 6 years of pretty heavy use. Eventually the cone blew, he gave it to another friend who had it repaired for like $60 and it still sounds great. My sub setup is an Alpine SWR-1043 DVC Type-R sub rated for 600W RMS ($200) paired with an Alpine MRP-M500 mono block amp rated at 500W RMS ($150) in a sealed 0.7 cu ft box and it is way more than enough for me. It will shake my mirrors and rattle my car, 0 distortion. It won't stop my heartbeat or blow dry my hair though. I have an aftermarket head unit with good pre-outs and the sound quality is great.

Compare that to how you think you want it.

EDIT:
If you do your own install, I recommend Knukonceptz for amp install kits. Very good quality over-spec/under rated wiring and equipment for your stereo install. I used their stuff for my system. http://www.knukonceptz.com/ They have some very good comparisons and tests between their equipment and most of the other brands you find in shops/online
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:59 PM   #22
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Ok so you will want a sealed sub. JL has some great products too, very good subs. A friend of mine had a very old JL 12" and it lasted him like 6 years of pretty heavy use. Eventually the cone blew, he gave it to another friend who had it repaired for like $60 and it still sounds great. My sub setup is an Alpine SWR-1043 DVC Type-R sub rated for 600W RMS ($200) paired with an Alpine MRP-M500 mono block amp rated at 500W RMS ($150) in a sealed 0.7 cu ft box and it is way more than enough for me. It will shake my mirrors and rattle my car, 0 distortion. It won't stop my heartbeat or blow dry my hair though. I have an aftermarket head unit with good pre-outs and the sound quality is great.

Compare that to how you think you want it.

EDIT:
If you do your own install, I recommend Knukonceptz for amp install kits. Very good quality over-spec/under rated wiring and equipment for your stereo install. I used their stuff for my system. http://www.knukonceptz.com/ They have some very good comparisons and tests between their equipment and most of the other brands you find in shops/online
Awesome thanks man! I am not on a budget but I am of the type who does not feel the need to spend unnecessarily.

Do you know if an 8" will suit my needs more than a 10"? Or vise versa.
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Old 03-08-2013, 12:09 AM   #23
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Awesome thanks man! I am not on a budget but I am of the type who does not feel the need to spend unnecessarily.

Do you know if an 8" will suit my needs more than a 10"? Or vise versa.
Get at least a 10". You would only want an 8" if you wanted a tiny little box that is out of the way, or listened to classical music. A 12" will move more air, sound a bit louder, and hit slightly lower notes, without sacrificing SQ, but it may not be quite as punchy. Most people do 12" (or multiples). If you don't mind having half your trunk taken by a box, do a 12". If you want to have 3/4 of your trunk usable, do a 10", and if you want ALL of your trunk, get a shallow 10" with uberstealth box.

a 10" may actually compliment rock music more than a 12". I imagine a 12" sounding better with rap/R&B
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Old 03-08-2013, 12:13 AM   #24
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Cool I will go with the 10". Now time to find a set of components and call it a day.
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Old 03-08-2013, 12:34 AM   #25
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Definitely go to some VW meets and listen to other people's cars and see what you want your car to sound like (or not like).
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Old 03-08-2013, 12:36 AM   #26
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Definitely go to some VW meets and listen to other people's cars and see what you want your car to sound like (or not like).
Good idea, haven't been to one since I got my car
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:06 AM   #27
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Here's a question that I have that maybe the OP has too: Is it better to have a 5 channel amp that powers both the speakers and the sub, or a 4 channel amp for the speakers and a mono amp for the sub?
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:47 AM   #28
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Here's a question that I have that maybe the OP has too: Is it better to have a 5 channel amp that powers both the speakers and the sub, or a 4 channel amp for the speakers and a mono amp for the sub?
That is a hard one to answer. If you want to have 2 subs, you can actually run a left and right sub, but you need a 2- or 4-channel amps to run stereo subs (or multiple mono amps). I havent seen a 6 channel amp before. The second (and probably more relevant concern) is how much space you have to mount a 5 channel amp. 5 channel amps are pretty darn large. I think most people do a 4 channel A/B amp and a separate mono block digital amp with a single sub. That is also what I did as well. But I have 2 friends that had the space to run 5 channel amps (they both had the same brand amp). Those things are big though, you can't fit one under a seat, and probably too big to screw onto the back of the rear seats and still use the center hole or fold down separately.
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