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HYDE16 Reviews - 034Motorsport Street Density Engine & Trans Mounts

Pooley

Ready to race!
I'm sure this has been discussed many of times but how much NVH will I get with the VWR subframe mount? I am DSG so I will probably feel more than someone who has a manual transmission. Just after dropping the subframe and pressing in the mount I really don't want to have to go back lol.
I have stock motor and trans mounts with VWR subframe mount on a DSG. First 700 miles or so it vibrated a good amount from idle to 1200 rpm leaving a stop and backing uphill, then it started to calm. Wasn't terrible after that initial 700 miles, but still noticeable for sure. Have over 4000 miles on the mount since I installed it a month ago (I drive a lot for work), and last Monday I installed a Fluidampr which really helped. Nearly eliminated vibrations except for when the A/C is on and leaving a stop, but even those vibrations aren't bad. So you'll get vibrations for sure with the VWR subframe mount and DSG, but they are liveable if you don't want to install a Fluidampr. I drive a lot so I wanted to smooth it out some more.

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hbrown0509

Go Kart Champion
I have stock motor and trans mounts with VWR subframe mount on a DSG. First 700 miles or so it vibrated a good amount from idle to 1200 rpm leaving a stop and backing uphill, then it started to calm. Wasn't terrible after that initial 700 miles, but still noticeable for sure. Have over 4000 miles on the mount since I installed it a month ago (I drive a lot for work), and last Monday I installed a Fluidampr which really helped. Nearly eliminated vibrations except for when the A/C is on and leaving a stop, but even those vibrations aren't bad. So you'll get vibrations for sure with the VWR subframe mount and DSG, but they are liveable if you don't want to install a Fluidampr. I drive a lot so I wanted to smooth it out some more.

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Thanks for the input. Right now I have the 034 engine and transmission mounts with their billet insert for the subframe. There is still some movement so I know the weakest link is still the subframe so I eventually want to replace it. Just a major toss up between the 034 street density puck or the VWR one. I've read a lot of great things about the Fluidampr and thats very interesting how much it cuts down on the vibrations. I definitely want to add this to my list of mods. It's one of the easier and less time consuming ones to do since I would have a shop do it.
 

hbrown0509

Go Kart Champion
I have 034 engine and trans and pendulum and vwr subframe. All are new except for the pendulum has maybe 5k miles on it. Take off vibrations are pretty strong. Its been about 100 miles so far. To explain the intensity, you can watch the turn signal stalk shake as you are engaging the clutch. However, the vibration seems pretty exclusive to like 900-1200 rpm. Outside of that range, you would not know I have uprated mounts.
Now outside of vibrations, the engine idle noises are amplified. You can hear the ticking and chugga chugga noises, especially if your windows are up.
A/c amplifies vibes and due to added engine load, also amplifies engine sounds.
Basically you will only notice this combo at 900-1200 rpm and sitting at a red light. Shifts are butter smooth for me now. I am MT though.

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The pendulum mount is probably much better suited for a MT. I just realized I sold you the pendulum. Lol. Glad to see you're using it.
 

Squashdaddy

Go Kart Champion
Bumping a very old thread. I bought the 034 transmission and engine mount (street density) and attempted to install the engine mount this weekend. Where did you guys support the engine? Did you take the plastic cover off of the bottom of the engine to find a good spot to support it? For the engine mount, it looks like the oil pan is directly below the mount and I don't think it would be smart to even lightly support the engine from the oil pan. When you guys did the install, did the mount move at all when you loosened the bolts on the old mount? I had the engine supported on the drivers side for the engine mount (since I didn't want to support it from the oil pan) and the engine mount shifted about 1/8 inch when I loosed the last bolt. Scared me that I wouldn't be able to line the holes back up when I put the new one in so I just tightened the bolts back on the old one for now. Any help would be appreciated.
 

ahard48

Ready to race!
I have seen many DIY's where people have supported the engine by the oil pan and piece of wood.
 

lilonespaz

Drag Race Newbie
I have seen many DIY's where people have supported the engine by the oil pan and piece of wood.
i think this is how most do it. Use a 2x4 across the whole pan and a jack with just a tiny bit of pressure so the engine doesnt drop but not pushing against it.
 

Squashdaddy

Go Kart Champion
Thanks guys. Looks like I'll lightly support the engine from the oil pan. I will report back when I get the mounts installed.
 

Squashdaddy

Go Kart Champion
Got both the transmission and motor mount installed yesterday. Took me about 2.5 hours because I was being overly cautious with everything. Lining up the holes on the motor side of both mounts was a little tricky since they didn't line up perfectly. A bit of tugging and adjustment of the jack helped me get them seated correctly.

Took it for a drive right after the install. I have the HPA 75 durometer lower subframe mount (puck) and since I installed that a couple of years ago, I've had increased vibration at idle and taking off from first gear and reverse. That always kind of bugged me, but I got used to it. Anyway, the 034 mounts almost completely took away that vibration, if not all of it. After removing my old mounts I compared them to the 034 and noticed how much more movement was in the stock mounts. I wasn't necessarily expecting more vibration with the new mounts, but really didn't expect them to reduce the vibration so much. It feels locked down and much smoother now.

A couple of other things that seemed to change were engine noise and clutch noise. I swear my engine sounds throatier now? I don't know how that's possible, but is sounds like it got a little bit of boxer 4 dna in it now. Also, I can hear a difference when my clutch is engaged vs disengaged. With the clutch in everything is silent, but when I let it out (in neutral with engine running) I can hear a very faint noise. Probably nothing bad, maybe just mechanical noise, but there is a difference in the noise. Anyone else experience either of these phenomenon?

Overall, I am EXTREMELY happy with the outcome. Shifting doesn't seem to have changed any ( I already have an HPA short shifter, 42 DD bushings and Tyrolsport solid shifter bracket bushings). Power feels more direct now, like it's being used and not being soaked up by squishy rubber. I would definitely recommend this mod to anyone who thinks they need new mounts.
 

HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
Also, I can hear a difference when my clutch is engaged vs disengaged. With the clutch in everything is silent, but when I let it out (in neutral with engine running) I can hear a very faint noise. Probably nothing bad, maybe just mechanical noise, but there is a difference in the noise. Anyone else experience either of these phenomenon?

Perfectly normal, the trans mount will send more clutch feedback through the firewall. In neutral clutch in it will be silent, clutch out it will sound like rattling / helicopter. Completely normal and will change with temperature of the clutch (cold start vs. after a drive).

I had the BFI mounts and it sounded terrible.
 
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