MrFancypants
Autocross Champion
Special tools needed:
- OEM Tools bearing and race installer set, 27119
-- https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27119-Bearing-Race-Installer/dp/B0006307SQ
---This tool is on AutoZone's loan-a-tool program, so borrow it for free
- Three jaw puller, also an AutoZone loaner tool
- 8" c-clamp, although a 6" may work
- A Big Ass Hammer ™
Parts:
Febi #33973, I got my pair from Amazon
Control arm brackets bolts
-- N10579702 x 4, 16mm M10x76
-- N91039802 x 2, 18mm M12x1.5x90
--- Absolutely replace these bolts, if you try to reuse one and break it you're going to have a bad time
Before you start, you have to decide if you're going to completely remove the control arm or leave it in place. I opted to leave mine on the car, if you want to pull them from the car to have more space to work see these instructions....
http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...alling_suspension_link_with_mounting_bracket/
1. Remove the one 18 mm bolt and two 16 mm bolts that hold the bracket to the car
2. Wearing a pair of thick gloves, grab each side of the bracket and pull the bracket off of the control arm. Alternate pressure between the left and right side and it will come off, but it will take some effort. If you do not have enough space remove the plastic under-body piece that runs along the exhaust tunnel.
3. Mark the orientation of the stock bushing. I'm sorry I didn't take a good picture, but look at this one and you'll see where to make the mark. I used a blue sharpie to mark mine.
Note the position of the "thick" portion of the bushing. You'll want to leave the mark so that it centers the bushing when you install the new one. If you don't get it close you're going to have a difficult time getting it back on the control arm because the "bolt hole wings" won't clear the subframe.
4. Using the appropriate size plate from the bearing/race installer set and your three jaw pullers, press the stock bushing out. The stock bushing comes out easily, you won't have to apply much pressure. The puller is fiddly and annoying to use, so it helps to have some way to suspend the bracket. You'll want to take care to ensure that the puller claws aren't in the way of the bushing so it can slide out cleanly.
It's a good idea to apply some grease to the puller threads so it turns smoothly. Also be sure to go slow and ensure that the plate is is being pressed through the housing as close to straight as possible.
5. Apply some grease to the inside of the housing and the metal casing on the bushing. Be careful to keep the grease off of the rubber, it's not good for it.
6. Line it up with your mark
7. Using an oversized plate from the OEM Tools kit, mend that shit with your Big Ass Hammer ™ until it's happy in its new home. After every strike look to see if it's going in straight, adjust where you hit the plate as necessary. The new bushing should go in without too much effort.
This is where it gets....... fun.
These aren't fancy two piece Whiteline bushings that slip on without much effort. I fought with the first side I did for a while before I decided to go buy a c-clamp and hope that did the trick. Thankfully it worked beautifully, even if it was a little clumsy.
8. Using your c-clamp and an over-sized plate, press the bushing/housing assembly back onto the control arm.
Step #8 is actually not bad, just keep twisting until it looks like this when you remove the plate...
...but you have a problem, the bolt holes aren't going to line up yet. It needs to look like this before the bolts will go in...
Note that the control arm comes through just a tiny bit more, which is what you need to get the bolts in.
9. Get creative. The flat plate wouldn't let the control arm come through and I didn't have a socket big enough to get all the way around the bushing and onto the bracket, so using some duct tape, a wrench, and a couple of smaller plates I did this...
I'm sure there's a more elegant way to do that, but what I did worked.
10. Insert and torque the bolts. It helps to have a pry bar handy to push the control arm left and right a bit to remove pressure so you can more cleanly get the bolts in.
As I said before, use new bolts, and you'll started a few turns by hand before taking a ratchet to them. You really, really do not want to break these bolts off. If you feel like you have to force them in, stop, pull the bolt out, see if there's any damage to the threads, and try again.
Torque specs:
16mm - 37ft/lb + 1/4 turn
18mm - 52ft/lb + 1/4 turn
11. Get an alignment
Enjoy!
- OEM Tools bearing and race installer set, 27119
-- https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27119-Bearing-Race-Installer/dp/B0006307SQ
---This tool is on AutoZone's loan-a-tool program, so borrow it for free
- Three jaw puller, also an AutoZone loaner tool
- 8" c-clamp, although a 6" may work
- A Big Ass Hammer ™
Parts:
Febi #33973, I got my pair from Amazon
Control arm brackets bolts
-- N10579702 x 4, 16mm M10x76
-- N91039802 x 2, 18mm M12x1.5x90
--- Absolutely replace these bolts, if you try to reuse one and break it you're going to have a bad time
Before you start, you have to decide if you're going to completely remove the control arm or leave it in place. I opted to leave mine on the car, if you want to pull them from the car to have more space to work see these instructions....
http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...alling_suspension_link_with_mounting_bracket/
1. Remove the one 18 mm bolt and two 16 mm bolts that hold the bracket to the car
2. Wearing a pair of thick gloves, grab each side of the bracket and pull the bracket off of the control arm. Alternate pressure between the left and right side and it will come off, but it will take some effort. If you do not have enough space remove the plastic under-body piece that runs along the exhaust tunnel.
3. Mark the orientation of the stock bushing. I'm sorry I didn't take a good picture, but look at this one and you'll see where to make the mark. I used a blue sharpie to mark mine.
Note the position of the "thick" portion of the bushing. You'll want to leave the mark so that it centers the bushing when you install the new one. If you don't get it close you're going to have a difficult time getting it back on the control arm because the "bolt hole wings" won't clear the subframe.
4. Using the appropriate size plate from the bearing/race installer set and your three jaw pullers, press the stock bushing out. The stock bushing comes out easily, you won't have to apply much pressure. The puller is fiddly and annoying to use, so it helps to have some way to suspend the bracket. You'll want to take care to ensure that the puller claws aren't in the way of the bushing so it can slide out cleanly.
It's a good idea to apply some grease to the puller threads so it turns smoothly. Also be sure to go slow and ensure that the plate is is being pressed through the housing as close to straight as possible.
5. Apply some grease to the inside of the housing and the metal casing on the bushing. Be careful to keep the grease off of the rubber, it's not good for it.
6. Line it up with your mark
7. Using an oversized plate from the OEM Tools kit, mend that shit with your Big Ass Hammer ™ until it's happy in its new home. After every strike look to see if it's going in straight, adjust where you hit the plate as necessary. The new bushing should go in without too much effort.
This is where it gets....... fun.
These aren't fancy two piece Whiteline bushings that slip on without much effort. I fought with the first side I did for a while before I decided to go buy a c-clamp and hope that did the trick. Thankfully it worked beautifully, even if it was a little clumsy.
8. Using your c-clamp and an over-sized plate, press the bushing/housing assembly back onto the control arm.
Step #8 is actually not bad, just keep twisting until it looks like this when you remove the plate...
...but you have a problem, the bolt holes aren't going to line up yet. It needs to look like this before the bolts will go in...
Note that the control arm comes through just a tiny bit more, which is what you need to get the bolts in.
9. Get creative. The flat plate wouldn't let the control arm come through and I didn't have a socket big enough to get all the way around the bushing and onto the bracket, so using some duct tape, a wrench, and a couple of smaller plates I did this...
I'm sure there's a more elegant way to do that, but what I did worked.
10. Insert and torque the bolts. It helps to have a pry bar handy to push the control arm left and right a bit to remove pressure so you can more cleanly get the bolts in.
As I said before, use new bolts, and you'll started a few turns by hand before taking a ratchet to them. You really, really do not want to break these bolts off. If you feel like you have to force them in, stop, pull the bolt out, see if there's any damage to the threads, and try again.
Torque specs:
16mm - 37ft/lb + 1/4 turn
18mm - 52ft/lb + 1/4 turn
11. Get an alignment
Enjoy!
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