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DIY: TSI Timing Chain Tensioner Update

I am interested in the Tool

So I'm going to do this this weekend... just want to make sure I understand the sequence of events before I get too far into it - I'm a little confused about removing the crankshaft pulley and the cover.

Do you use the counter-hold tool and an impact gun to pull the crankshaft bolt so that you can remove the pulley, then replace the bolt loosely before removing the cover? Or, does the pulley come off, and then you have to use the counter-hold tool and an impact to remove the crankshaft bolt so that you can remove the cover, and then you replace the bolt loosely?

Sorry for the newb-ish question - better to ask before I'm under the car, haha. I'll take a ton of pictures and see if I can supplement this with an "idiots guide" - but it seems pretty straight forward already.

BTW - I bought the counter-hold tool for this job, but don't ever expect to use it again. If anyone wants to buy it, let me know -- it'll be in the classifieds next week.
 

Gauge85

Ready to race!
So I'm going to do this this weekend... just want to make sure I understand the sequence of events before I get too far into it - I'm a little confused about removing the crankshaft pulley and the cover.

Do you use the counter-hold tool and an impact gun to pull the crankshaft bolt so that you can remove the pulley, then replace the bolt loosely before removing the cover? Or, does the pulley come off, and then you have to use the counter-hold tool and an impact to remove the crankshaft bolt so that you can remove the cover, and then you replace the bolt loosely?

Sorry for the newb-ish question - better to ask before I'm under the car, haha. I'll take a ton of pictures and see if I can supplement this with an "idiots guide" - but it seems pretty straight forward already.

BTW - I bought the counter-hold tool for this job, but don't ever expect to use it again. If anyone wants to buy it, let me know -- it'll be in the classifieds next week.

In for supplemental idiots guide and additional pictures.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
So I started this about 2 hours ago, so far so good (going very slow, making sure I store and label all the bolts, and putting all my bits and tools away between steps - I hate when I have a bit one second, and then have to spend 30 minutes looking for it when I turn back around).

Hit a quick question mark, though... I have a call into HSTuning, but maybe someone here knows.

There are two notches on my engine cover, at about 12 and 4 oclock, as GTIProject indicated there should be; however, my pulley only has ONE notch. I assume I line it up with the 12 o'clock mark? Of note, the replacement cover only has one notch at 12 o'clock (no mark at 4), which is why I feel like that's the one.

Anyway - taking a quick break... but when I go back out I'm going to pull the engine mount and bracket, and then I'm ready to pull the cover and replace the tensioner.

I'm taking a ton of pictures, but so far there's not a whole lot to supplement except for (a) how to remove the T.O.P, and (b) how to remove the serpentine belt - neither of which I'd done before.

UPDATE: just got off the phone with HSTuning... the explanation I got it that as long as you're careful to keep tension on the chain (zip-ties) while you remove the old tensioner, that you don't have to worry so much about being in TDC. If you do slip the chain, TDC is the only way to 100% guarantee you're timed correctly afterwards - but you have to pull the top cover, and can turn the engine over several hundred times before you're in TDC anyway. Plus, since the pulley is keyed, you can't get it back on wrong. Back to the garage!
 
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timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Welp - this job is on hold until tomorrow... need a very short 10mm triple square bit to get the engine mount bracket off. Not a lot of wiggle room there, and I'm having trouble getting in there with what I have.

Looking carefully, I'm questioning wether taking this bracket off is completely necessary. It's hard to tell.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Honesty I am worried if I take it to the dealer to get it done they would start a long line of issues.....

How so? Aside from not having the triple square bit I need, this is very straight forward and non invasive. Only thing you could possibly screw up is not keeping the timing chain under tension; in which case your engine will eat itself when you start the car up again - which would be very obviously the mechanic's fault if that happened, and unrelated to any possible mods. Not a can of worms situation.

BTW, for those of you looking to do this yourselves: it's a very convenient time to also do Turbo outlet Pipe and/or Engine mounts.

Full required tool list, and more pics, coming on Sunday. The triple square I have is 1/2" too long; my dremel will fix that in the morning, and I expect the rest of this to be a cake walk. I'm doing SPM mounts, a WALK kit, and readjusting my shift linkages while I'm in there. I'll include my modified triple square bit with the counter-hold tool for whomever that goes to next.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
I'm defeated. Can't get that engine mount bracket off. If I had the right triple square it's this would be cake. I just trimmed mine up using a die grinder, which lets me get in there, but I still don't have the right bits it seems.

I'm going to have my tuner do this when he does my clutch in the next few weeks. Sigh.
 

BAM its mitch

Go Kart Champion
I'm defeated. Can't get that engine mount bracket off. If I had the right triple square it's this would be cake. I just trimmed mine up using a die grinder, which lets me get in there, but I still don't have the right bits it seems.

I'm going to have my tuner do this when he does my clutch in the next few weeks. Sigh.

Is it the 12mm that is giving you issues?

Go to Oreilly and buy 2 packs of the triple square bits (comes with 4 or 5 sizes, all of them are a few inches long) for ~$5 each

For one of the bolts I needed the bit to be full length. For another I needed it chopped down short and used a box end wrench on it. Admittedly for the one with the box end wrench, I didn't torque to spec because fitting a torque wrench in there wasn't happening. If you absolutely have to get a torque wrench on it then you are likely going to need a crows foot that extends past the edge of your torque wrench(note this actually changes the torque value based on the distance that the torque wrench is offset from the center of the bolt, you can calculate the change though) and a torque wrench that works in both directions.

*edit*

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm

This link demonstrates what I was talking about.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Is it the 12mm that is giving you issues?

Go to Oreilly and buy 2 packs of the triple square bits (comes with 4 or 5 sizes, all of them are a few inches long) for ~$5 each

For one of the bolts I needed the bit to be full length. For another I needed it chopped down short and used a box end wrench on it. Admittedly for the one with the box end wrench, I didn't torque to spec because fitting a torque wrench in there wasn't happening. If you absolutely have to get a torque wrench on it then you are likely going to need a crows foot that extends past the edge of your torque wrench(note this actually changes the torque value based on the distance that the torque wrench is offset from the center of the bolt, you can calculate the change though) and a torque wrench that works in both directions.

*edit*

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm

This link demonstrates what I was talking about.

It's the one towards the rear of the car. The two up front I could get to. I already closed it up and installed new engine mount. Not worth the effort at this point since I'm going to have the clutch done anyway - will just ask them to do it while its on their lift.
 

dave80

Go Kart Champion
I'm defeated. Can't get that engine mount bracket off. If I had the right triple square it's this would be cake. I just trimmed mine up using a die grinder, which lets me get in there, but I still don't have the right bits it seems.


did you use to the jack to raise the engine up a little for more clearance.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
did you use to the jack to raise the engine up a little for more clearance.

Yes - raising / lowering gave me clearance for the two front bolts. The one in the rear I couldn't get to, though. I could get the bit to it from underneath, but couldn't get a socket on it, and don't have a wrench long enough to grab on and apply the torque I'd need.

I don't want to discourage anyone - this was definitely a do-able job. I just decided over the past couple days it's time to get the clutch done, so since my tuner will have the car anyway it just makes sense to have him do it and save myself the frustration.
 

ErBall

Measurement Mogul
Yes - raising / lowering gave me clearance for the two front bolts. The one in the rear I couldn't get to, though. I could get the bit to it from underneath, but couldn't get a socket on it, and don't have a wrench long enough to grab on and apply the torque I'd need.

I don't want to discourage anyone - this was definitely a do-able job. I just decided over the past couple days it's time to get the clutch done, so since my tuner will have the car anyway it just makes sense to have him do it and save myself the frustration.

Understandable, the job is not for the faint of heart. It is time consuming and frustrating at times. A very comprehensive tool set is almost a requirement for any substantial VW project. The fact that you have aftermarket mounts makes it substantially harder to move the engine up/down to get the necessary clearance needed to remove the mount bracket. With aftermarket mounts you almost need to remove the tranny mount to make it work.

Hope things go well with your turner.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Understandable, the job is not for the faint of heart. It is time consuming and frustrating at times. A very comprehensive tool set is almost a requirement for any substantial VW project. The fact that you have aftermarket mounts makes it substantially harder to move the engine up/down to get the necessary clearance needed to remove the mount bracket. With aftermarket mounts you almost need to remove the tranny mount to make it work.

Hope things go well with your turner.

I'm actually retrying this later today. I picked up a short XZN set from metal nerd, and am currently balls deep into the K04 DIY (IHI is on the ground next to my car!) - I'm confident I can reach the rest of those bolts now. Will update again later.

The decision to get K04 happened about in parallel with my original attempt here. So it hasn't been a well planned out two weeks :)
 
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