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TSI Intake Manifold Removal DIY + Valve Cleaning

nickh2500

New member
I got mostly through this job over the weekend, and a I have a few suggestions for other people who want to attempt it.

-I'm not sure you really need to remove the whole PCV assembly from the top of the head. I did it as you recommended, but it was a pain keeping track of all the bolts, and I only succeeded in having some dust and carbon blow into the open valvetrain when I was blowing out the intake ports. Its probably a preference thing, but if I was doing it again I'd leave it on.

-I would also add that its a good idea to clean your engine really good before you start removing things. My engine was a little grungy after 66k miles, and I didn't think much of it, but as soon as I took off the intake manifold some crud that had built up in the seam between the mani and the block got loose fell into the intake ports. I don't think any got into the cylinders, but I can imagine if you had any kind of sand or road grit fall in there that could be big trouble.

-I don't know if the '10 configuration is different than most, but I don't think you mentioned removing the oil filter. I tried to pull the manifold off while the filter was still on and it took a lot of "convincing" to get it slide off the pins. This also left a big dent in the side of my oil filter. Since the filter is normally dry at rest its no big deal to pop it off. Gives a lot better access to that side of the manifold anyways.



As for my particular job, it took me about 3 hours to get the old one off.
I had the hardest time getting the Throttle-body hose off, because of the way the hose clamps were turned, and the fact that I didn't have a compact 7mm wrench.
And I didn't have the long 1/4" extension bar, or a deep socket big enough to reach all the head bolts, so I had to get them the hard way.
All-in-all it was a major pain, but I followed the instructions and eventually got it off.

The replacement went in a little easier, but since I was rushing, something in the fuel system didn't get seated properly.
The car started and ran fine once the air got purged from the fuel lines, but it also started spitting out fuel. I couldn't tell if it was the hardline or the injector seals themselves, but I'm gonna have to pull everything off again and take a closer look tonight.

I know dbestgti keeps talking about changing out the seals, so maybe that is what I'll have to do, but for now I want to make sure it is a seal problem, and not a workmanship problem.


All-in-all I would call this a fairly difficult job. Especially if you don't have a very complete tool set.
I wouldn't even attempt this unless you have the correct extensions, the triple-square bits, and the small metric deep-sockets.
It can be done without them, but it makes an already tricky job a very big PITA
 

steelcurtain

Go Kart Champion
Sorry to hear about your struggle. The oil filter does get in the way but you can remove the mani without removing the filter. Also, I did not state in the DIY to remove the PCV. I have no idea why you did that or would even think it was necessary. You just remove the accordion tube from the intake to the PCV.
 

ViRtUaLheretic

╭∩╮(︶__︶&#6
I was fiddling around with my car last week and discovered I was able to disconnect the fuel hardline nut that is visable between cylinders 3 & 4 with a crows foot wrench, 90 degree socket bend and an extension.
That would have aided in manifold removal :)
 

nickh2500

New member
Also, I did not state in the DIY to remove the PCV. I have no idea why you did that or would even think it was necessary.

On second glance I misinterpreted step 6 as Disconnect PCV hose, then Disconnect PCV assembly. Or I had a little dyslexic moment and juxtaposed "remove" from the line above. Who knows. Its was dark and I was frustrated.

Anyways, I finally did complete the install after picking up the injector repair kits from VW.
It cost me a little over $40 for all 4. Kinda ridiculous since I only needed the one little blue o-ring, but whatever.

All-in I spent less than $200, and probably saved at least that much again versus having a pro do it.

The engine did have a pronounced tappety noise when it first ran, and I had all kinds of strange warning lights on the dash (stability control? power steering fluid? etc.)
I was a little afraid that I had totally borked the engine somehow, but after driving around a little and restarting, everything cleared up.

Another thing... I was pretty surprised how much oil was going through the PCV hose. It was more than just a light hazing on the hoses, there was enough that if I tipped the hose up, it would drip out the end. Is that normal? or am I starting to see some symptoms of blow-by?
 

ViRtUaLheretic

╭∩╮(︶__︶&#6
Another thing... I was pretty surprised how much oil was going through the PCV hose. It was more than just a light hazing on the hoses, there was enough that if I tipped the hose up, it would drip out the end. Is that normal? or am I starting to see some symptoms of blow-by?

This is normal, install a catch can
 

McQueen77

Banned
I'm not trying to ignore anything. It has nothing to do with shinning a positive light. I referenced there was a tool for doing it the correct way in my original post.

It's just that the tone of your responses have come across as being a little snide IMO. There is no reference to injector seal removal or replacement in this DIY so IT IS completely off topic.

Probably snide because he's a tech, a pro, and you... Well you arent.
 

dcarony

Ready to race!

mlody91

Ready to race!
Want to do this but I'm worried about the injectors coming out. I found a kit on deutscheautoparts but I'm confused as to what the other bits besides the white teflon seal are for.

Also, not sure if this was covered yet, but is there a way to get the seals on without that expensive tool?
 

steelcurtain

Go Kart Champion
Getting the seals on without the tool is in the DIY.

Count on at least one injector coming out. I'd still have 4 replacement kits. The kit comes with several bits. The white seal you use and the rest is optional. The blue ring is for the injector to fuel rail, which I would change. Then you have the clips that hold the injectors in place. All done.

If you don't feel up to it than don't do it. It's not hard but can be challenging to the less mechanically inclined. I mean that with the upmost respect. Just looking out. This DIY is very successful but others have had challenges due mostly to not being organized.

GL

-Patrick
 

steelcurtain

Go Kart Champion
Google my DIY thread on the vortex. It has way more activity than this one. You can learn from others mistakes. I try my best to follow both threads so you will get assistance if something goes south.
 

mmaluso

Passed Driver's Ed
How do I get this dang throttle body off? I've done lots of work on my own cars in the past but mostly 90s rwd Mazdas. I can't for the life of me get the throttle body bolts out. Specifically the rear left one. There is no room for anything down there. Should I be doing this from underneath? Anyone near Fort Collins,CO that has done this?
 
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