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Old 12-06-2017, 09:35 AM   #15
zrickety
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Doesn't the door skin just unbolt and give you access to everything?? Might want to try that before touching the interior.
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He's a real straight shooter, no monkey business, and the wheel swap at the Kohl's parking lot was quick and easy.
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Well i did use a breaker bar to snug up that nut instead of a torque wrench.
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my subframe has been out twice without replacing any bolts and I don't have subframe clunks and my world hasn't ended and my car hasn't blown up.
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:46 AM   #16
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Doesn't the door skin just unbolt and give you access to everything?? Might want to try that before touching the interior.
Door skin? Isn't that the inside of the door panel? I've heard that it's the biggest nightmare to remove and you'll end up breaking clips 90% of the time.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:06 PM   #17
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No, the door skin is the metal exterior. I believe it unbolts pretty easily, then everything is exposed.
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He's a real straight shooter, no monkey business, and the wheel swap at the Kohl's parking lot was quick and easy.
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Well i did use a breaker bar to snug up that nut instead of a torque wrench.
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my subframe has been out twice without replacing any bolts and I don't have subframe clunks and my world hasn't ended and my car hasn't blown up.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:15 PM   #18
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No, the door skin is the metal exterior. I believe it unbolts pretty easily, then everything is exposed.
Interesting. I'll look into that.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:17 PM   #19
sterkrazzy
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Doesn't that black piece behind the door skin have to be riveted out?
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Old 12-06-2017, 04:00 PM   #20
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I'm assuming all MK6 GTIs are the same with regard to the doors/windows, and if so the black panel is secured with rivets (one very stupid thing about an otherwise pretty clever car) that need to be drilled out. The proper sized rivets are tricky to find and require a bigger rivet gun than normal, so keep that in mind BEFORE you drill out the old rivets. I believe on the MK5 you could simply unbolt the door skin, not the MK6.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:30 PM   #21
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Guess I was thinking of my MK5...I assumed the feature carried over, but I could be wrong.
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He's a real straight shooter, no monkey business, and the wheel swap at the Kohl's parking lot was quick and easy.
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Well i did use a breaker bar to snug up that nut instead of a torque wrench.
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my subframe has been out twice without replacing any bolts and I don't have subframe clunks and my world hasn't ended and my car hasn't blown up.
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:04 PM   #22
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My car had about 200K on it at the time so not sure if I would have been able to call if defective on their part? Its seen its fair share of Tim's drive through windows
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:42 PM   #23
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My car had about 200K on it at the time so not sure if I would have been able to call if defective on their part? Its seen its fair share of Tim's drive through windows
50k here. My friend had it happen at 15k and replaced under warranty ofc no questions asked because it's a known problem. For me though, $700!
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:52 AM   #24
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Had the same problem on my 2.5. Took it to my mech, he took off the trim molding and cleaned the window track properly.

It doesn't happen anymore.

Last edited by marksix; 12-07-2017 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:12 AM   #25
mataempat
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Had the same problem. Took off the inner door skin after removal of the glass. Lube everything that can move including the glass carrier and track. Squealing came back after few months.

It turned out to be misaligned window track. Had to change the entire inner skin because the tracks are riveted to it. Also noticed some crimping on the regulator cable. All good now.
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:08 AM   #26
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Had the same problem on my 2.5. Took it to my mech, he took off the trim molding and cleaned the window track properly.

It doesn't happen anymore.
Mine is as clean as it can possibly get without removing anything. Did he have to remove the entire door panel I'm assuming to remove the trim molding?
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:13 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by mataempat View Post
Had the same problem. Took off the inner door skin after removal of the glass. Lube everything that can move including the glass carrier and track. Squealing came back after few months.

It turned out to be misaligned window track. Had to change the entire inner skin because the tracks are riveted to it. Also noticed some crimping on the regulator cable. All good now.
That's what I'm thinking it is along with a regulator cable going. I'm sure I could silence it if I could get access to behind that panel. Any tips on removing it? I know people say it's an absolute nightmare.

When I try to lube things w/ the window down it just makes a mess and hardly covers anywhere. It's amazing to see how many others have this problem.
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:12 AM   #28
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Door card removal was pretty straight forward. Expect to replace few clips. Quite cheap at the dealer.

To remove the glass itself, you should follow this guide here http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswag...ndow/removing/

It's a bit tricky to pull the plastic rivets out. On the reinstall, make sure the rubber seal is properly seated against the metal sheet. It's not advisable to put any adhesive around it as that can change the inner door pressure. Side crash sensor depends on it for proper operation.
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