I have 2000 miles on mine now and I have several issues the dealer can't find or says is normal.
The most sickening is a loud pounding/banging/popping sound and vibration that is felt throughtout the car when the tires spin for over a second or so. It doesn't do it on ice, only wet or dry pavement, ashpalt or concrete, ESP on or off. It sounds like the tires/wheels are coming through the firewall. It does not do it as much as it used to, but I can still make it do it. I think it is the electronic locking differential, as they call, becasue there is no torque steer, only straight acceleration. The dealer would not wet down some pavement so I could demonstrate.
The driver's side plastic underbody fairing will rattle. The passenger side is fine, but tap on the driver's side and it is loose and rattles. This is normal the dealer says.
My driver's buzzes/vibrates slightly when closing or sometimes when engaging the clutch. I told them not to remove the panel unless they know what it was. They removed it anyway and it is noiser now.
When you drive on a washboard road, the upper rear corners of the door panels will rattle against the door frame. Also, you can hear the trim panels slap against each other. Too many rattles, in general.
If the car is cold soaked to about 20 degrees F, or so, the trans crunches on the 1-2 shift on my manual. It will not do it if you double clutch. It goes away after a couple of minutes, but it shoudn't do it at all. None of my cheapie US cars did this, surely VW's little halo hatch can match them. The dealer will not even investigate until it does it when they have it.
On cold mornings, sub 40 or so, something beeps, burps, buzzes until the car has run for several minutes. Maybe it is the fuel pump others have mentioned.
The radio will beep when you touch a preset, but will not switch stations. This is a fairly regular occurence.
My gas mileage has a ways to go to meet the EPA rating. So far it is the only car I have owned where I didn't get at least the EPA.
The info panel is nice, but the average mileage meter is constantly 1.5-3 mpg in error depending on the weather. So, the instantaneous must be, too. My clunky US SUV is typically around .5 in error. Plus, my digital and analog speedometers will run 2 mph different at times.
VW, why kill the 12v outlets when the car if off? Why kill the radio when the key is turned off and make us hit the power button to bring it back on?
It is a slick little ride, but I have quality control issues for the money I paid for it. I am going to remove the trim panels and put in sound deadner like Dynamat and that should get rid of some of the noise penetration which is alreay well controlled for the type of vehicle it is.
Wind and road noise are well controlled for this type of car. The radio is nice. The seats are very good, too, but I wish I could raise the rear about half an inch because my fat thighs dig into the front cushion when I depress the clutch. The turbo is very smooth and I engage it enthusiastically and frequently. The trans is nice except for the cold 1-2 shift. I have had no suspension issues and it handles like it is on rails. I don't expect perfection, but built-in rattles, imprecise instrumentation and strange noises should be within their engineering capability to eliminate.