6
1.4 TSI Twincharger (160) Stage 1 / 2
- Thread starter blower
- Start date
sixboltmains
New member
Hi Blower,
A quick question...I am working on removing the injectors on the twincharged engine and so far I have removed all the bolts on the lower part of the intake manifold (just above injectors) but the manifold will not come off. Is there any special tricks to removing that lower part of the intake manifold ?
Thanks,
SBM.
A quick question...I am working on removing the injectors on the twincharged engine and so far I have removed all the bolts on the lower part of the intake manifold (just above injectors) but the manifold will not come off. Is there any special tricks to removing that lower part of the intake manifold ?
Thanks,
SBM.
As long as the metal fuel line is off (at least at the fuel pump end) and all the bolts (including the ones in the middle) are removed it will come off.
It can take a bit of moving back and forth to get it off as the injector rubber seals can stick and hold it on somewhat. It is also common to pull one or more injectors out with the manifold.
norrisroyn
New member
When you say latest, how late is latest?
I'm actually all ready for a stage 2 map, got a sports cat in there now and VR intake and have been looking to possibly do a custom map but don't mind giving APR another shot if they have a new map out.
Hey blower,
That’s an awesome thread here! I have the same engine (2009, approx. 80T Miles) in my Scirocco. I was always insecure about tuning, but decided to go step by step.
- Pipecross Fitler
- Wagner Intercooler
- New valves (n75, n249) / timing chain (warranty)
And now recently, quite the same as you:
Walnut blasting with injectors of the newest generation (03C 906 036M), NGK 2667 BKR7EIX sparks, new coils, new fuel filter. I have to say, that the engine was running quit lean (hot) and unstable lot after this treatment for a couple of minutes.. lots and lots of misfires, HP fuel pump wasn’t happy neither, ticking. I guess there was to much air in the system. Revs went down and up systematically..
The reason for this last update was that my spark plugs worn out quite quickly – I had to change them all 7.000 miles to avoid missfire. So I stared to eliminate all of these known faults:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=407682
Btw. my pistons and rings seem to be fine at the moment, since compression was in all cylinders from 12-12,8 bar. Oil consumption is low. No spray on the valves like you have shown. But even with all these updates I’m not sure, I the misfires are gone for good. Maybe the fuel pump is the last bit, but during log measurements the pressure values seemed ok.
Since you have forged pistons now, and a lot of mapping experience – did you find the key for your ignition problems? How about Loba components, Hybrid-Turbo and HPFP?
That’s an awesome thread here! I have the same engine (2009, approx. 80T Miles) in my Scirocco. I was always insecure about tuning, but decided to go step by step.
- Pipecross Fitler
- Wagner Intercooler
- New valves (n75, n249) / timing chain (warranty)
And now recently, quite the same as you:
Walnut blasting with injectors of the newest generation (03C 906 036M), NGK 2667 BKR7EIX sparks, new coils, new fuel filter. I have to say, that the engine was running quit lean (hot) and unstable lot after this treatment for a couple of minutes.. lots and lots of misfires, HP fuel pump wasn’t happy neither, ticking. I guess there was to much air in the system. Revs went down and up systematically..
The reason for this last update was that my spark plugs worn out quite quickly – I had to change them all 7.000 miles to avoid missfire. So I stared to eliminate all of these known faults:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=407682
Btw. my pistons and rings seem to be fine at the moment, since compression was in all cylinders from 12-12,8 bar. Oil consumption is low. No spray on the valves like you have shown. But even with all these updates I’m not sure, I the misfires are gone for good. Maybe the fuel pump is the last bit, but during log measurements the pressure values seemed ok.
Since you have forged pistons now, and a lot of mapping experience – did you find the key for your ignition problems? How about Loba components, Hybrid-Turbo and HPFP?
When you say latest, how late is latest?
I'm actually all ready for a stage 2 map, got a sports cat in there now and VR intake and have been looking to possibly do a custom map but don't mind giving APR another shot if they have a new map out.
I am not sure. Was just browsing through the APR website(on the date that I've posted my last comment) and found out they've released the Stage 2 Map.
I had the APR stage 2 Map installed in August this year along with a turbo back Milltek exhaust. I had the turbo replaced at the same time due to shaft play after ~120,000km.
Prior to the upgrade the car was running a 2011 CAVD block (stock pistons) with a 2012 HPFP, S3 intercooler, K&N airbox/filter, DV+ diverter valve, odyssey PC680 battery and various other valve and small part replacements. It had been on the APR stage 1 map since 2014.
The Map went well initially and was a nice bump up from the stage 1. The torque curve felt much flatter and the rush was pushed up the rev range to be more turbo focused. The exhaust sound is good fun too with some pops and crackle that you don't normally get in the 6sp manual
Boost Limp
Since then I have experienced the boost limp on and off. Worth mentioning that one of the hoses from the intercooler has pretty much popped off the lower boost pipe elbow (engine side of the intercooler). Healthy peak boost for the stage 2 map on my PODI gauge was showing about 22PSI. Now it's around 18PSI, when the limp kicks in and it's limited to 15PSI.
Alternative Stage 2 Options
As far as alternative stage 2 options go here, there's REVO, Harding Performance (ex-distributor for APR in Australia) and e-tuners. I've noted Blower's comments on the AFR issue and potential knock sensor sensitivity.
I'm not in a huge rush for a new tune as it'd be an expensive exercise but would like to lose the boost limp.
Couple of questions:
Is the TMG coil spacer essential for the R8 coils?
Is there an alternative? (the TMG postage to Australia is like 100 Euro)
Would the G revision stock coils be sufficient in the absence of the R8s in your opinions?
Would you wrap your downpipe?
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Yep that boost limp is a real issue - unsure the cause, could be down to EGT (linked to AFR since EGT is a calculated value), knock sensitivity or boost request beyond maximum readable value of the sensor (2550 mbar absolute).
In answer to your questions:
Is the TMG coil spacer essential for the R8 coils?
Unfortunately yes, the R8 coils are a lot longer than the stock coils. They would stick out from the cylinder head and sit way too loosly without the spacer.
Is there an alternative? (the TMG postage to Australia is like 100 Euro)
Not that i know of!
Would the G revision stock coils be sufficient in the absence of the R8s in your opinions?
To be honest they are probably fine, the R8 coils *may* allow a bit more boost before misfire with X amount of spark plug gap.
Would you wrap your downpipe?
If you have an aftermarket sports cat or straight through downpipe i would definitely wrap it, in order to protect pipework and other stuff in close proximity (i have a sports cat now and wrapped the top section). Of course don't wrap the cat itself.
The stock cat / downpipe has a lot of metal heat shielding in order to protect damage to surrounding parts so a wrap is essential on aftermarket downpipes in my opinion.
The Milltek downpipe section has the sports cat built in to the same location as the stock downpipe. The post-turbo boost pipe runs parallel to the downpipe (3-4 inches away) and the intercooler return pipe passes under the end of the downpipe (within millimetres).
Even with the S3 intercooler i'm getting noticeable heat soak after 5-10 minutes of driving. I'm considering wrapping the boost pipes and perhaps the section after the cat but am at a loss as to how to shield the cat itself without cooking it. That thing turns the engine bay into an oven and its location dumps radiant heat straight into the other pipes.
Would you wrap the whole downpipe and sports cat section? I've also shot an email to Milltek asking them so I'll let you know what they come back with.
Don't wrap the cat itself - you will kill it (it will overheat and melt the internal honeycomb structure).
Only way to shield the cat itself would be to fabricate some form of heatshield - similar to whats on the stock cat.
Got some responses back from the tuning companies today regarding knock sensor sensitivity settings and AFRs. The questions asked were:
Does your stage 2 map feature a reduced knock sensor setting compared to stock? and; What is the minimum AFR under the map if any?
Harding Performance:
We do not change any of the factory settings, as these are there to tell you something is not working correctly.
REVO (sales team) simply ignored the questions and referred me to a dealer:
It would be best to visit a local Revo dealer who could data log the car to see what’s happening with it. They can then compare the logs to our data sheets to see how they compare.
Waiting to hear back from the Greeks (etuners, TMG and Revlimit). Didn't bother asking APR after blowers experience.
Does your stage 2 map feature a reduced knock sensor setting compared to stock? and; What is the minimum AFR under the map if any?
Harding Performance:
We do not change any of the factory settings, as these are there to tell you something is not working correctly.
REVO (sales team) simply ignored the questions and referred me to a dealer:
It would be best to visit a local Revo dealer who could data log the car to see what’s happening with it. They can then compare the logs to our data sheets to see how they compare.
Waiting to hear back from the Greeks (etuners, TMG and Revlimit). Didn't bother asking APR after blowers experience.