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Low 'N Slow GTI

ReportDevin

New member
By "low", I mean low budget, and by "slow", I mean slow build. Welcome! :thumbup:



Recently purchased a 2012 GTI with 48k miles to replace the Cruze that I wrecked.


Current List:
-Window Tint (1/5/17)
-Eonon GA6153W Head Unit (1/4/17)
-TWM Performance M1 Abrams Shift Knob (11/25/16)
-Integrated Engineering Intake (7/23/17)
-H&R Street Performance Coilovers (Not Installed)
-Ziza LED Taillights (8/4/17)
-NewSouth Boost Gauge (Not Installed)
-Cobb Accessport w/ Stratified Tune (Ordered)
-Cobb Downpipe (Ordered)

Upcoming buys:
-Rotiform TMB's
-"Ness Blue" Plastidip/vinyl
-Front Grille (Likely ABT style)
-Cobb Catback

Thanks for looking guys, I plan on updating this thread whenever I get something new.
 
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c72k

Go Kart Champion
Welcome! I have a similar build theme to my car as well lol. Quick note, skip the springs and get coilovers. Been there, done that and it's not worth doing more than once
 

ReportDevin

New member
Welcome! I have a similar build theme to my car as well lol. Quick note, skip the springs and get coilovers. Been there, done that and it's not worth doing more than once

The main reason why I wanted springs was just to get it lower for now and save for good quality coilovers. Unless I can find a good kit sub $600
 

CMGTI

Ready to race!
Welcome! I have a similar build theme to my car as well lol. Quick note, skip the springs and get coilovers. Been there, done that and it's not worth doing more than once

My first GTI came with coilovers, I drove too spirited for that lol. I was only at 24 FTG too. H&R super sports gets very low for springs. It depends how you drive the car anyway lol.

The main reason why I wanted springs was just to get it lower for now and save for good quality coilovers. Unless I can find a good kit sub $600

Its on how you drive, the roads in your town, etc. Quite a few kits are around that. The marketplace has a few of them.

Welcome to the site. :thumbsup:
 

c72k

Go Kart Champion
The main reason why I wanted springs was just to get it lower for now and save for good quality coilovers. Unless I can find a good kit sub $600
To me, this never makes sense when I hear people doing this. IMO, suck it up and just save for coils. Your car doesn't need to be lowered this instant. Then you save whatever the cost of springs and your time installing
My first GTI came with coilovers, I drove too spirited for that lol. I was only at 24 FTG too. H&R super sports gets very low for springs. It depends how you drive the car anyway lol.



Its on how you drive, the roads in your town, etc. Quite a few kits are around that. The marketplace has a few of them.

Welcome to the site. :thumbsup:

Wut? I don't understand the first part:iono:
 

ReportDevin

New member
To me, this never makes sense when I hear people doing this. IMO, suck it up and just save for coils. Your car doesn't need to be lowered this instant. Then you save whatever the cost of springs and your time installing


Wut? I don't understand the first part:iono:

That actually sounds like a good plan. Figuring I could save $200 bucks and already be 1/3 of the way to get coilovers.
 

ReportDevin

New member


Adding little things bit by bit just so i don't get bored. Waiting until after the holidays to start buying parts.



Also trying to get this POS ready to sell so I can buy parts for the VW.

Considering upgrading the exhaust sooner than later, but I was wondering if a TBE is just a CBE with a downpipe. Is that true or is there more to it? I'm still learning so don't be surprised if I ask stupid questions.
 

gtimk6spd

Ready to race!
A TBE for our cars is just a downpipe and CBE. You probably won't save money buying a TBE vs a downpipe and CBE seperately (if you're getting the same components). If you install them at separate times then you'll be looking at more labor/cost.
 

ReportDevin

New member
A TBE for our cars is just a downpipe and CBE. You probably won't save money buying a TBE vs a downpipe and CBE seperately (if you're getting the same components). If you install them at separate times then you'll be looking at more labor/cost.

So now I just need to figure out whether I want to get it all at once, or separately. Most likely separately and save money over time and build my car rather than wait and then do it at once.
 

gtimk6spd

Ready to race!
So now I just need to figure out whether I want to get it all at once, or separately. Most likely separately and save money over time and build my car rather than wait and then do it at once.

Can you do any of the work yourself? If you can put the CBE on yourself then it shouldn't matter if you do the downpipe by itself first. And do you plan to get a tune when you do a downpipe?
 

ReportDevin

New member
Can you do any of the work yourself? If you can put the CBE on yourself then it shouldn't matter if you do the downpipe by itself first. And do you plan to get a tune when you do a downpipe?

Yeah most of the work will be done by me. And yeah I was planning on getting the tune pretty early actually. After thinking about it for a bit I might actually get the tune with an intake first, then get a downpipe and pay the $150 for APR tune to upgrade to Intake/Downpipe. Then throw on the CBE later and call it good. But that's not set in stone. But yes, tune with downpipe.
 

gtimk6spd

Ready to race!
Yeah most of the work will be done by me. And yeah I was planning on getting the tune pretty early actually. After thinking about it for a bit I might actually get the tune with an intake first, then get a downpipe and pay the $150 for APR tune to upgrade to Intake/Downpipe. Then throw on the CBE later and call it good. But that's not set in stone. But yes, tune with downpipe.

That will definitely save some money then.

Personally I think the best route to start would be Stage 2 tune and downpipe. The stage 2 requires a downpipe and will give you the most bang for your buck. Right now it seems APR has $100 off their tune. Then if you get the APR downpipe you get the Stage 1 to Stage 2 upgrade for free. So that'd be $250 in savings which more than offsets the cheaper price of the Billy Boat downpipe. I'm not saying the Billy Boat is bad at all or that it's cheap construction, just that it costs less.

If you go that way you'd essentially have saved about $100, which could help pay for an intake as the next step.

But that's just an idea, obviously you do what suits you best :) You could do the discounted Stage 1 now and get an intake, and then get a downpipe later and still save $150 off the tune upgrade if you went with APR.
 

ReportDevin

New member
That will definitely save some money then.

Personally I think the best route to start would be Stage 2 tune and downpipe. The stage 2 requires a downpipe and will give you the most bang for your buck. Right now it seems APR has $100 off their tune. Then if you get the APR downpipe you get the Stage 1 to Stage 2 upgrade for free. So that'd be $250 in savings which more than offsets the cheaper price of the Billy Boat downpipe. I'm not saying the Billy Boat is bad at all or that it's cheap construction, just that it costs less.

If you go that way you'd essentially have saved about $100, which could help pay for an intake as the next step.

But that's just an idea, obviously you do what suits you best :) You could do the discounted Stage 1 now and get an intake, and then get a downpipe later and still save $150 off the tune upgrade if you went with APR.

I was under the assumption that to go Stage 2 requires Intake & Downpipe, or am I wrong there? And I haven't decided on a brand for the downpipe either, and the Billy Boat CBE sounded best to me and also thought that it was one of the top of the line brands. I'm still doing research on different brands and products before I ultimately decide on a tune, downpipe, etc. I just want to figure out which to go first.

And thanks for all your help so far, really appreciate it :thumbup:
 

gtimk6spd

Ready to race!
I was under the assumption that to go Stage 2 requires Intake & Downpipe, or am I wrong there? And I haven't decided on a brand for the downpipe either, and the Billy Boat CBE sounded best to me and also thought that it was one of the top of the line brands. I'm still doing research on different brands and products before I ultimately decide on a tune, downpipe, etc. I just want to figure out which to go first.

And thanks for all your help so far, really appreciate it :thumbup:

APR says their tune needs an intake and downpipe, but I'm quite sure you only actually need the downpipe. I suppose you wouldn't make the full power, but from what I have read it doesn't matter if you run Stage 2 on just a downpipe. I would look into it more before pulling the trigger to be safe. You could always just continue with your original plan.

In the end money shouldn't be the whole deciding factor. If you like Billy Boat more I would go with them. You spend the money once, but drive the car daily. Might as well get something you personally enjoy right? :)

Anytime!
 
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