Nimche
Go Kart Champion
none LED or none fog? if non-fog, I put at 21
6
coding for led lights (ed's)
- Thread starter phd-12v
- Start date
none LED or none fog? if non-fog, I put at 21
Just wanted to post my coding as it took a few tries to get there without throwing codes:
Goal: LED's and Fogs as DRL with no codes/errors and no resistors used.
Setup:
2010 Golf TDI
Switch: Original (non-Euro)
Ed's Option #4
Depo tails w/o fog
Front Fogs Installed
Final Coding:
67180A3E98242AC480080081700083C441012186534D8560E48020240000
Byte 18: Final was 21. I tried several including 20 but received errors on tails.
Byte 14: Final 83 but 03 works as well. Bit 3 (Bi-Xenon Headlights with Shutters Installed) needs to be unchecked. This was throwing errors until I unchecked this one. Low beams and high beams still work with this unchecked. It doesn't matter if you set this to 03 or 83 (which adds cornering for fogs) the cornering for fogs with this setup does not work.
Goal: LED's and Fogs as DRL with no codes/errors and no resistors used.
Setup:
2010 Golf TDI
Switch: Original (non-Euro)
Ed's Option #4
Depo tails w/o fog
Front Fogs Installed
Final Coding:
67180A3E98242AC480080081700083C441012186534D8560E48020240000
Byte 18: Final was 21. I tried several including 20 but received errors on tails.
Byte 14: Final 83 but 03 works as well. Bit 3 (Bi-Xenon Headlights with Shutters Installed) needs to be unchecked. This was throwing errors until I unchecked this one. Low beams and high beams still work with this unchecked. It doesn't matter if you set this to 03 or 83 (which adds cornering for fogs) the cornering for fogs with this setup does not work.
derailment
New member
Ed's Lights Coding Recap Question
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Installed Ed's LED's in my '11 Sportwagen Tdi. DRLs work but not the high beams or right backup lamp. Numerous bulb out errors.
Is the above quoted coding still working for you? I will attempt to copy, but not sure if it work on my Tdi. Any thoughts before I move forward with it? Thanks!
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xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Installed Ed's LED's in my '11 Sportwagen Tdi. DRLs work but not the high beams or right backup lamp. Numerous bulb out errors.
Is the above quoted coding still working for you? I will attempt to copy, but not sure if it work on my Tdi. Any thoughts before I move forward with it? Thanks!
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phd-12v
Go Kart Champion
yes it is, and I just walked someone through from this very forum with the same settings, and it worked fine.
I can walk through coding with you if you have a cable. let me know. Also scan 09 and see what CECM module is in the car.
mine ends in 087 G and I believe the one I just did was an 086 L
what did you do with byte 18?
Mortal Wombat
Passed Driver's Ed
Got my Option 1 headlights installed with HIDs. I'm now getting a bulb out error, I'm assuming it's because of the LED city lights. I think I need to make the following 2 changes, do they sound correct?
- Disable bulb extender (http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1070583&postcount=194)
- Check the box for byte 27, bit 2 to fix the bulb out error (http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?p=673400)
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First, thanks to all who have contributed to this thread! I just installed Ed's w/LEDs on my 2011 JSW. I coded it based on many threads and everything works like a charm: LEDs/position lights as DRLs and LEDs with low beams. I only get one persistent bulb error, Front Right Side Light. Here's what I coded. Any clues to get rid of the bulb out?
BYTE 18 - is 20
BYTE 14 - (bit 3 is unchecked)
BYTE 15 - is C4 (check bit 6, bit 7)
BYTE 24 - is E4 (check bit 7)
BYTE 27 - is 24 (check bit 2)
Oh, and I also turned off the headlight dimming, bulb life extender in byte 19 I believe.
BYTE 18 - is 20
BYTE 14 - (bit 3 is unchecked)
BYTE 15 - is C4 (check bit 6, bit 7)
BYTE 24 - is E4 (check bit 7)
BYTE 27 - is 24 (check bit 2)
Oh, and I also turned off the headlight dimming, bulb life extender in byte 19 I believe.
Derailment: Try the coding above
Derailment: Try the coding above
-----
Update: EVERYTHING works now with
BYTE 18 - is 45
BYTE 14 - (bit 3 is unchecked)
BYTE 15 - is C4 (check bit 6, bit 7)
BYTE 24 - is E4 (check bit 7)
BYTE 27 - is 24 (check bit 2)
The LED DRLs even dim when the xenons fire up. Derailment, use this coding.
Derailment: Try the coding above
-----
Update: EVERYTHING works now with
BYTE 18 - is 45
BYTE 14 - (bit 3 is unchecked)
BYTE 15 - is C4 (check bit 6, bit 7)
BYTE 24 - is E4 (check bit 7)
BYTE 27 - is 24 (check bit 2)
The LED DRLs even dim when the xenons fire up. Derailment, use this coding.
Last edited:
Hi guys,
I just installed one of these: RFB Automatic Headlight Conversion Kit (MK6) and can't get the "auto" mode on the switch to work. I have Ed's headlights with HID kit, and DEPO R Rear LEDs.
The way my lighting is setup with a non-auto euro switch was:
0 - LEDs DRL
Park - No DRLs + FOGS
ON - No DRLs + FOGS + HIDs.
The coding was done by a friend, and I don't have a vag-com, but I was wondering if the "AUTO" mode on the switch is not working because of the aftermarket lights?
I'll try to get a VCS soon to check the coding he did.
Also, my LEDs never worked on the park position, even with the yellow trigger wire.
Thanks for any info.
I just installed one of these: RFB Automatic Headlight Conversion Kit (MK6) and can't get the "auto" mode on the switch to work. I have Ed's headlights with HID kit, and DEPO R Rear LEDs.
The way my lighting is setup with a non-auto euro switch was:
0 - LEDs DRL
Park - No DRLs + FOGS
ON - No DRLs + FOGS + HIDs.
The coding was done by a friend, and I don't have a vag-com, but I was wondering if the "AUTO" mode on the switch is not working because of the aftermarket lights?
I'll try to get a VCS soon to check the coding he did.
Also, my LEDs never worked on the park position, even with the yellow trigger wire.
Thanks for any info.
Thank you very much for putting this thread together. It has been a long search process looking for the proper coding for Ed's led headlights. I say 'long search' because I printed out the coding directions for Ed's lights from his website (http://becautoparts.myshopify.com/collections/headlights/products/vw-golf-6-hid-headlights-black-with-leds?variant=803502482) and went into my VW dealership for them to code the lights.
(Btw, I have a 2013 vw golf Tdi Wolfsburg edition. Stock halogens for headlights and fogs. I switched both headlights and bulbs out for 5500k morimoto lights from Ed when I bought his lights.)
It wasn't pretty. I ended up with faults still being thrown and NO LED'S as DRL. Which is what I wanted. Just LED'S as DRL. No fogs running at the same time. It was a complete waste of $150(shop time). Yeah.. $150.
So after reading all of this thread and numerous others, I thought I would be destined to buy a Euro switch and/or put a jumper wire in. I didn't need either. JUST PROPER CODING.
After I bought my Micro-CAN from Ross-tech (the Canadian location in Nova Scotia, http://www.roselandtech.ca/VCDS.htm) it literally took me 20mins to get my lights working.
The coding in this forum worked except for one important line. If you buy Ed's lights, make sure to code like phd - 12v says. Make sure to adjust your byte 18 first. But the most important for Ed's lights is
BYTE 18 - is 20
BYTE 14 - is 0B (check bit 1, bit 3)
BYTE 15 - is C4 (check bit 6, bit 7)
BYTE 24 - is E4 (check bit 7)
BYTE 27 - is 24 (check bit 2)
Byte 26, bit 3.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hw7lcflmcb26dd2/DSC_0738.JPG?dl=0
you need to unchecked the assistance driving light (ADL). This is for the lights that swivel when you turn a corner. Ed's lights don't have that motor. So when I unchecked it, my DRL came on right away. No problems. No faults.
The DRL are set at 100% brightness. They run brighter as DRL than when the low BEAMS and the LED'S are on.
I also coded the led's to stay on when the turn indicator is active.
The fogs are coded to stay on while high beams are on.
Coded for Windows to raise/low with fob
Coded to maintain seat warmer level when car is turned off and then back on again.
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36478
Overall, I would recommend everyone to buy or search out someone with a vagcom/Micro-CAN, etc. Going to the dealership has been frustrating and it is amazing that their trained professionals know a little about a lot. I know each mechanic has their strengths. So results will vary. Don't get me wrong, I love mechanics, But up here in maple ridge Canada, I got more results doing the job myself for this specific issue.
It all comes down to proper question asking (ADL motors) and background knowledge on the subject (coding) . I guess because I work in the medical field I'm used to questioning and finding a needle in a haystack. That's why I wanted to post something here to hopefully cut down on the time spent searching this stuff out.
I also understand that this experience I've had may go differently for someone else. My CECM module can be different and create some sort of subtle changes in coding, etc.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l6akftdwc8y05om/DSC_0739.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pfyhpu650b2xjbu/DSC_0740.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8k7tqj2gnny9qem/DSC_0741.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/abnzjx6xjpzzvaq/DSC_0742.JPG?dl=0
Install and spraying the headlights with 3M
http://m.canadiantire.ca/en/automotive/auto-repair-tools/protection/auto-protectants/3m-paint-defender-spray-film-0477929p.html?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=Default&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default
https://www.dropbox.com/s/purrd3ibvm3w14u/DSC_0648.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7wcg0grtq1ny71p/DSC_0651.JPG?dl=0
(Btw, I have a 2013 vw golf Tdi Wolfsburg edition. Stock halogens for headlights and fogs. I switched both headlights and bulbs out for 5500k morimoto lights from Ed when I bought his lights.)
It wasn't pretty. I ended up with faults still being thrown and NO LED'S as DRL. Which is what I wanted. Just LED'S as DRL. No fogs running at the same time. It was a complete waste of $150(shop time). Yeah.. $150.
So after reading all of this thread and numerous others, I thought I would be destined to buy a Euro switch and/or put a jumper wire in. I didn't need either. JUST PROPER CODING.
After I bought my Micro-CAN from Ross-tech (the Canadian location in Nova Scotia, http://www.roselandtech.ca/VCDS.htm) it literally took me 20mins to get my lights working.
The coding in this forum worked except for one important line. If you buy Ed's lights, make sure to code like phd - 12v says. Make sure to adjust your byte 18 first. But the most important for Ed's lights is
BYTE 18 - is 20
BYTE 14 - is 0B (check bit 1, bit 3)
BYTE 15 - is C4 (check bit 6, bit 7)
BYTE 24 - is E4 (check bit 7)
BYTE 27 - is 24 (check bit 2)
Byte 26, bit 3.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hw7lcflmcb26dd2/DSC_0738.JPG?dl=0
you need to unchecked the assistance driving light (ADL). This is for the lights that swivel when you turn a corner. Ed's lights don't have that motor. So when I unchecked it, my DRL came on right away. No problems. No faults.
The DRL are set at 100% brightness. They run brighter as DRL than when the low BEAMS and the LED'S are on.
I also coded the led's to stay on when the turn indicator is active.
The fogs are coded to stay on while high beams are on.
Coded for Windows to raise/low with fob
Coded to maintain seat warmer level when car is turned off and then back on again.
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36478
Overall, I would recommend everyone to buy or search out someone with a vagcom/Micro-CAN, etc. Going to the dealership has been frustrating and it is amazing that their trained professionals know a little about a lot. I know each mechanic has their strengths. So results will vary. Don't get me wrong, I love mechanics, But up here in maple ridge Canada, I got more results doing the job myself for this specific issue.
It all comes down to proper question asking (ADL motors) and background knowledge on the subject (coding) . I guess because I work in the medical field I'm used to questioning and finding a needle in a haystack. That's why I wanted to post something here to hopefully cut down on the time spent searching this stuff out.
I also understand that this experience I've had may go differently for someone else. My CECM module can be different and create some sort of subtle changes in coding, etc.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l6akftdwc8y05om/DSC_0739.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pfyhpu650b2xjbu/DSC_0740.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8k7tqj2gnny9qem/DSC_0741.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/abnzjx6xjpzzvaq/DSC_0742.JPG?dl=0
Install and spraying the headlights with 3M
http://m.canadiantire.ca/en/automotive/auto-repair-tools/protection/auto-protectants/3m-paint-defender-spray-film-0477929p.html?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=Default&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default
https://www.dropbox.com/s/purrd3ibvm3w14u/DSC_0648.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7wcg0grtq1ny71p/DSC_0651.JPG?dl=0
Last edited:
No bulb out issues? I have a 2014 JSW TDi and can't get rid of the side marker out error. Even following Toneman's settings. Tried using region 20 on byte 18 and lost the use of the rear view camera and had the passenger side brake light stuck on. Got Ed's option 3 with Morimoto HIDs, ballasts, and canbus adapter. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
This forum doesn't email me when there is a response. Weird.
I have only had issues with the cornering lights (fogs turning on when turning). I don't think my CECM or whatever can handle HID bulbs in the fog housing. If I turn my wheel too fast(repeatedly) side to side, activating my cornering lights off and on, I will get a fog bulb out warning. I could turn off the cornering lights and avoid this issue but I like them on. I don't like driving with my fog lights on unless it's foggy. I like the clean look of only using the led's as DRL.
So for now I'll put up with the possibility of a bulb out warning that only happens once/month (if that) through regular use. It's rare.
I have only had issues with the cornering lights (fogs turning on when turning). I don't think my CECM or whatever can handle HID bulbs in the fog housing. If I turn my wheel too fast(repeatedly) side to side, activating my cornering lights off and on, I will get a fog bulb out warning. I could turn off the cornering lights and avoid this issue but I like them on. I don't like driving with my fog lights on unless it's foggy. I like the clean look of only using the led's as DRL.
So for now I'll put up with the possibility of a bulb out warning that only happens once/month (if that) through regular use. It's rare.
engineered2win
Ready to race!
I bought the 15 LED headlights from ECS Tuning, which I assume are identical to Ed's.
I used the recommended settings for my 11 TDI with auto switch:
BYTE 18 - is 20
BYTE 14 - is 0B (check bit 1, bit 3)
BYTE 15 - is C4 (check bit 6, bit 7)
BYTE 24 - is E4 (check bit 7)
BYTE 27 - is 24 (check bit 2)
Everything works great after VCDS coding. I was concerned I would have to dick with depinning/making jumper wires, but completely unnecessary.
0 = Drl (Drl selectable through MFD)
Auto = Drl OR Low beam & running lights & Drl off
Park = Drl on very low with running lights
Low Beam/Fogs = running lights and low beam & Fogs
I am using TRS Morimoto 35w ballasts with Phillips 85122 4300k bulbs; they're a couple years old and I had them laying around. I was able to remove the Canbus error eliminators, so the Ballasts are mounted to the plastic brackets under the headlights and were plug n play with the Spade connectors that the H7 bulb used. I had to enlarge the holes on the cover behind the projector to fit the D2S connector and grommet and I depinned the weatherpack connector for the ballast power so I could also route it through the grommet. Install looks very clean, no errors, and working like OE so far.
I used the recommended settings for my 11 TDI with auto switch:
BYTE 18 - is 20
BYTE 14 - is 0B (check bit 1, bit 3)
BYTE 15 - is C4 (check bit 6, bit 7)
BYTE 24 - is E4 (check bit 7)
BYTE 27 - is 24 (check bit 2)
Everything works great after VCDS coding. I was concerned I would have to dick with depinning/making jumper wires, but completely unnecessary.
0 = Drl (Drl selectable through MFD)
Auto = Drl OR Low beam & running lights & Drl off
Park = Drl on very low with running lights
Low Beam/Fogs = running lights and low beam & Fogs
I am using TRS Morimoto 35w ballasts with Phillips 85122 4300k bulbs; they're a couple years old and I had them laying around. I was able to remove the Canbus error eliminators, so the Ballasts are mounted to the plastic brackets under the headlights and were plug n play with the Spade connectors that the H7 bulb used. I had to enlarge the holes on the cover behind the projector to fit the D2S connector and grommet and I depinned the weatherpack connector for the ballast power so I could also route it through the grommet. Install looks very clean, no errors, and working like OE so far.
Last edited:
asianxtreme
New member
Hi guys.
I'm pretty late to the game but need some serious help.
I first installed the headlights but didn't do the coding right away. Without coding the low and high beams work fine but the passenger-side leds would only stay on the first couple of seconds then off completely.
I then coded using instructions from the very first post in this thread. Now, the problem has switched to the driver-side leds being off completely
I did a quick skim of this thread and seems like no one else has had this problem. I purchased chrome w/ leds from Ed's website directly and installed the included HID kit.
Is this a hardware issue or should I keep trying different coding???
Side Issue: I have also Depo led tails from eBay, does any have this combo and can comment on how to code? Thanks!
I'm pretty late to the game but need some serious help.
I first installed the headlights but didn't do the coding right away. Without coding the low and high beams work fine but the passenger-side leds would only stay on the first couple of seconds then off completely.
I then coded using instructions from the very first post in this thread. Now, the problem has switched to the driver-side leds being off completely
I did a quick skim of this thread and seems like no one else has had this problem. I purchased chrome w/ leds from Ed's website directly and installed the included HID kit.
Is this a hardware issue or should I keep trying different coding???
Side Issue: I have also Depo led tails from eBay, does any have this combo and can comment on how to code? Thanks!