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MKVI GTI 6 Speed Manual Clutch Replacement DIY

Nick_MKVI

Passed Driver's Ed
mine started slipping right after the tune, but I was able to hold off for a few thousand miles before I finally got a clutch. I REALLY like this south bend. I have one in my DSM and this car and they both hold power just fine.

I think i've been stage 2 for about 8-10k miles now. How long have you been in the DSM game? Do we know each other? lol I had about 5 in my day including a GVR4. I had a 2.4 stroker, SCM61, twin disk, aem, yadda
 

T is for TURBO

Ready to race!
I might know you? I've been into DSMs for about 11 years. I've only ever had 1. 2ga Talon fwd converted to awd, built bottom, TMZ trans, FP Green, Link, E-85. Last time I had it on the road it was making low to mid 400hp. I only know two guys with GVR4s. But they're from the Sheboygan area. I know a lot of EVO guys in the area though.
 

Nick_MKVI

Passed Driver's Ed
I might know you? I've been into DSMs for about 11 years. I've only ever had 1. 2ga Talon fwd converted to awd, built bottom, TMZ trans, FP Green, Link, E-85. Last time I had it on the road it was making low to mid 400hp. I only know two guys with GVR4s. But they're from the Sheboygan area. I know a lot of EVO guys in the area though.

I haven't owned a dsm in quite a few years, but I've been in the "scene" for about 16 years. I know quite a few DSM/Evo owners in the community. Including Tim Zimmer of TMZ. What's your name?
 

sauceman101

Ready to race!
Will be using this guide as I pull my trans tonight to do the RMS, clutch, and install a peloquin diff. I'll use the diff guide from the TDI forum that everyone uses. Also will be replacing the exhaust manifold gasket for the IHI while in there as access will be a bit easier. Wish I had the funds to also do the turbo atm, next year!
 

2RAudi

New member
I know this is an old thread but man has it helped me! Just wanted to add for anyone attempting at their own risk by themselves like silly old me.

Hardest part as always when doing this alone on your garage floor is getting the trans back in. After an hour and a half of struggling with a trans jack (atv lift) I thought of taking a ratchet strap and putting it over my engine support bar and hooking to the front and back of the trans to let the trans hang. Then I could get the right hight and let it slide into its home without any struggles. I got the hight right first try but if you go to high with the strap you need to support the trans before loosening the strap or it will end up on the ground. Once I tried with the strap it took about ten min to get the teans seated and all the bolts in to hold the trans.
 

T is for TURBO

Ready to race!
Glad it helped!

Yeah, trans jack's are really only good for removing the trans in a transverse setup. I always use an engine hoist to lift it back in place. Also, having a second set of eyes and hands is helpful.
 

Black_gti_blaze

New member
This DIY really helped me out! Thanks so much for taking the time to do this, although I wish I read the comment about locktiting pressure plate bolts! Had to go back in for 2nd time on jackstands and made sure to star pattern torque and locktite!
 

CanadianNorth

New member
I know this is an old thread but man has it helped me! Just wanted to add for anyone attempting at their own risk by themselves like silly old me.

Hardest part as always when doing this alone on your garage floor is getting the trans back in. After an hour and a half of struggling with a trans jack (atv lift) I thought of taking a ratchet strap and putting it over my engine support bar and hooking to the front and back of the trans to let the trans hang. Then I could get the right hight and let it slide into its home without any struggles. I got the hight right first try but if you go to high with the strap you need to support the trans before loosening the strap or it will end up on the ground. Once I tried with the strap it took about ten min to get the teans seated and all the bolts in to hold the trans.

I used a strap around the transmission and a block and tackle, perhaps 30 minutes to get in it in.

Now I have a big problem - I assumed that my flywheel was positioned correctly. However - I am doubting myself now.
All bolts went in smoothly so I assumed it was in position, but I suspect I will have to pull the transmission again to double check?

Can anyone help on this issue?

thanks
 

CanadianNorth

New member
I used a strap around the transmission and a block and tackle, perhaps 30 minutes to get in it in.

Now I have a big problem - I assumed that my flywheel was positioned correctly. However - I am doubting myself now.
All bolts went in smoothly so I assumed it was in position, but I suspect I will have to pull the transmission again to double check?

Can anyone help on this issue?

thanks

answered my own question. As is mention, there is a fractional difference between two of the bolts.

On the engine hub it is indicated by a number stamped between two of the holes.
These line up with the small extra hole on the flywheel, marked with an x in the pic.
 

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Allchokedup

Autocross Champion
answered my own question. As is mention, there is a fractional difference between two of the bolts.

On the engine hub it is indicated by a number stamped between two of the holes.
These line up with the small extra hole on the flywheel, marked with an x in the pic.

Lucky you! I put clutch disk on backwards..had to pull tranny again! Blaahhh!!!
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
This DIY is great and really helped a lot. Just to add some things from my experience. Some of this might be in here but it’s easy to miss it.

•Axle’s don’t need to be removed from hub just zip tie them out of the way.

•When you are about to remove the transmission drop the engine down a good 3-4”. Make sure you disconnect the downpipe from the subframe and that your intake pipe is loose so it doesn’t hit the master cylinder. I was having issues until Jay gave me this pointer. Gives you an extra inch all around.

•For transmission removal as soon as you are out far enough to clear the pressure plate flip it on its side CCW so the differential is straight up. This will give you enough room to clear the subframe. For instal do the same thing. Get the transmission under the car then flip it on it’s end and get it right up against the pressure plate. It should slid on easily. Transmission jack was helpful when working by yourself on jack stands.

•The iABED RMS needs to be pressed into the flange before instal. I was not able to press it in enough with just a flat plate. A 4” piece of PVC from the hardware store allowed the seal to press in all the way. According to a tech I talked to at XLR8 the install tool is a must to not have a leak (don’t know how accurate this is but I had one so I used it).

Out too far.
2B5284FA-CB2F-433A-8177-53261B851EA6.jpeg


This is not far enough. It needs to be touching the back of the plate.

C257F515-3693-4837-BA5A-DE38B98FD871.jpeg
 

PghDan

Ready to race!
@GolNat Do you actually have a hydraulic press that you used to press the rubber seal into your iAbed housing? Just curious, since I do not own a press but would like to purchase the iAbed RMS for my car, but am hesitant to do so since I'm uncertain how to safely press the seal into place without a hydraulic press.
 
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